Oil starvation

red reading

Active Member
yep it has a restrictor in it to stop oil from the sump blowing out the rocker cover breather on hard cornering...............i found ot the hard way too...lol
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
That'll teach me for copying people that don't know what they're doing.............or don't drive their car hard enough to highlight the problem :lol: This has been the one niggling problem that i've wanted to get sorted out for a while now :doh:

I'll give you a ring in the next day or 2, i was going to try and get my car ready for Chivenor sprint on the 27th of may but thats been cancelled :sad: That gives me plenty of time now though as the next sprint is at castle combe on the 23rd june.

in the new engine in my trackcar i smoothed out the entire block and head to aid oil return back to the sump also smoothed out the oil returns and so far so good, only time will tell whether its worked or not but after a 1000 odd miles on track shes still going well....dare i say lol
Cheers Bob, I'd never heard of people like you that track your cars all the time having these problems so was starting to think it was something i'd done. I think the outcome of this is that all the standard oil drains back to the block etc are pretty good, its only when you start messing with little things that Nissan probably spent hours developing you run into problems :doh:
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
No, the standard oil drains aren't very good, that's why these problems happen....
As Martyn said it's prob a better idea to sort the returns with cleaning up the head and block as Bob has done and/or for an external return to the sump.
I am doing both to my new engine
 

red reading

Active Member
So you have track experience in a 500bhp car then Scott? The block internally polishing thing was an idea bob got from me as it was done in my engine. Mark have a look in the block where that crank breather comes out a bit more.
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
Danny, I never said I came up with the idea or Martyn, I had read about it years ago on skyline forums, don't get yer knickers in a twist
 

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Martyn is right, keeping the flow as it is to the head and improving the return is the way to go. Internal block polishing to improve the return flow is a method thats been around for donkeys years, I have always done it to a greater or lesser degree, depending on the build. The obvious oil return tracks of my last SR20 build were all ported/widened, casting webs removed and surfaces (that mattered) smoothed and polished. It's no different from cleaning up the ports on a cylinder head to improve air flow. Rob had an excellent internal setup to his last SR20 using crank scraper and windage tray setup, keeping as much of the oil in the block where its needed most.
 

Mr B

Member
Would of thought for serious track use slightly increased sump capacity & improved baffling would be a cost efficient option to maintaining enough oil in block & pickup area and aid in giving expensive high power engines a good life span ...
 

Mr B

Member
Good dry sump setup would be expensive.
Standard sump in terms of oil surge is quite good & can be improved at minimal cost.
Dry sumps add a fair amount of extra weight & complexity but if you have an expensive engine & track it to the extreme then may be the way to go.
 
How much are they worth brand new? just ebayed them but don't trust the prices as they will increase with import tax etc...
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
think they are around the £300 mark plus shipping and duty, mine is the 2 quart model, barely used and in excellent condition and also the complete kit with proper filling valve/solenoid that works of the ignition switch so as soon as you switch the ignition on it pressurises the oil system, you can also close the manual valve so the system isn't pressurised if you need the ignition on but no oil pressure.
 
think they are around the £300 mark plus shipping and duty, mine is the 2 quart model, barely used and in excellent condition and also the complete kit with proper filling valve/solenoid that works of the ignition switch so as soon as you switch the ignition on it pressurises the oil system, you can also close the manual valve so the system isn't pressurised if you need the ignition on but no oil pressure.
You have PM mate :)
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
I thought with all these new replies a useful discussion might have been going on instead of turning into a for sale thread :lol:
 
I have always been interested in these oil accumulators. If you think about it from an engineering point of view, regardless of what engine it is or the application...having a device that pre-oils the engine before you start it and combats oil surge is a massive bonus. It's a wonder cars don't come with these as standard really. Everyone knows that the most wear on an engine occurs everytime you start it; so why don't manufactures do something about it? In reality, for an every day road car it probably doesn't matter as the engine will outlast the chassis anyway?
If it helps stop my 20yr old shitter breaking down, I'm all for it :)
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
I've now got hold of the pipe that connects the standard oil separator to the rocker cover (big thanks to Stu666V :thumbsup:) i was surprised just how small the restrictor hole inside it is. I'll be refitting it to my car in the next week or so when i put my new gearbox on so will update this in the next few weeks as i've got a few sprints and hillclimbs coming up to test it out ;-)

The pipe in question:



Restrictor inside:

 

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Cars I have in also suffer from spitting out oil if the stock separator and pipework is removed. The purpose of the black box is to allow crank case gasses OUT but not allow oil out. So when you remove this AND the restrictor pipe and go giving it big balls on a track your going to be in trouble...

Its quite interesting as Nissan wouldn't have put it there if they didn't need to ;)
 
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