Fitting a bleed valve

[Escy]

I know they are crap and all that. Anyway, how do you fit them?

I've fitted mine in the pipe that goes from the actuator to the inlet manifold. I removed the original t-piece that goes to the standard boost solenoid, fitted the (3 port) bleed valve in there. Used the red pipe that is on the standard solenoid to go from the bottom of the bleed valve back into the inlet pipe (where it's connected originally).

It doesn't matter how I adjust it, I can't get more than 10psi out of it. That's the same 10psi I am getting with the original boost solenoid connected.

 

[PobodY]

They're not just crap, they're dangerous... but it's your choice, and needs must etc.

Personally I'd block that port that goes back to the inlet pipework, but it shouldn't really make any difference. - It sounds like you've connected it correctly; from the inlet mainfold, to the valve, then to the wastegate actuator.

The valve you've got doesn't have any kind of direction/arrow marking on it by any chance? I'm just wondering if it's possible to install it backwards (although I wouldn't have thought so). - When you say you've tried adjusting it, have you screwed it all the way in (so no boost can leak past it)?

It must be doing something if you're seeing 10psi, because the wastegate spring is only ~7.5psi (or 0.5 bar).

 

[Escy]

I'm wondering if something else is altered which is effecting it. With it closed all the way, I still get 10psi, with it open so much that there isn't any pressure of the bleed valve spring, still 10psi.

My car has a random ecu chip in it, is it possible that could be controlling the boost (highly doubt it).

The correct take off for the actuator on the inlet manifold is the nipple on the side that points towards the passenger side?

 

[PobodY]

I'm using a dawes-style device, but here's where mine is connected:

That's connected to the dawes-style device:

...and that's connected to the wastegate actuator:

That's holding ~1.1bar (~16psi).

 

[Escy]

Thanks for the pictures. That's the same as how I got mine hooked up.

I don't understand how i'm getting 10psi with the bleed valve completely closed

 

[fubar andy]

Please see my signature below regards bleed valves! :hide:

Go on to eBay and buy a dawes device (they are peanuts) and junk the bleed valve!

 

[stevepudney]

What he said ^^

 

[vss irvine]

Bleed valve of doom.

Save up and buy a boost controller.

 

[Escy]

I'm not really bothered to be honest. The car doesn't owe me much and i'm going to be getting shot of it soon. I just wanted to see what it's like running 15psi. It feels decent at 10psi. I have a bleed valve, i'm not going to go out and buy something. If I was keeping it I would. There is nothing to a bleed valve so no reason it's not working.

 

[STEVEN878]

Is it not a possibility that the turbine housing is cracked around the wastegate penny, so in affect never meets the bleed valves desired set point?

 

[vss irvine]

Do the one bar mod to the stock solenoid then.

 

[Escy]

Is that the drilling a hole one?

 

[Escy]

Is it not a possibility that the turbine housing is cracked around the wastegate penny, so in affect never meets the bleed valves desired set point?

It's only hitting 10psi, shouldn't the bleed valve should be able to provide more? That would explain why it's doing 10psi even with the bleed valve closed.

 

[STEVEN878]

The bleed valve will restrict the pressure/vaccum to the actuator, but if the housing is cracked it wont reach the desired set point because effectively the wastegate is open all the time....i think.

 

[Escy]

If that's the case, any method of boost control won't work?

 

[STEVEN878]

Yeah pretty much mate, but tou might have a issue with the actuator...might be worth checking?

 

[BMCC]

I would have thought you open the bleed valve so that it is venting some of the air that should be pushing on the wastegate? It needs more boost to open the wategate than normal? Unless you've got an uprated fuel pump I don't see the point in having more boost you are just going to destroy the engine if it runs really lean? putting 50% more boost through it is going to do just that.

 

[Escy]

It's got a fmic, upgraded fuel pump, chipped ecu, scorpion exhaust, upgraded plug leads. Should be fine at a bar.

 

[STEVEN878]

If the actuator is weak the boost pressure (10psi) will be opening the wastegate before the desired pressure is reached (16-18psi).
if it was my car i would use a mitevac to check the actuator, then i would find a way to stop the wastegate opening and go a run, if the car still makes only 10psi with the actuator stuck shut, then you have another issue.

maybe a bit rough, but will quickly help diagnose the problem.

 

[MarkTurbo]

Unless there's a crack the size of the grand canyon in the exhaust housing it still should make 1 bar pretty easily, I've had a turbo with a cracked housing make way more boost than that.

Should be fine at a bar.

So you're not actually going to check the fuelling with a wideband or anything just try and turn the boost up with an unknown chip in the ecu and hope for the best :lol: