Adjusting boost controller.

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Nik_GTI-R

Guest
Ok,my pulsar was fitted with an under bonnet boost controller(dawes device) so yesterday i decided to c how good it is.Only thing is i cant get it back to what it was at b4 i messed with it.
Does it need screwed in or out to turn the boost up??Its overboosting to 1.3bar and holding at 0.9bar.1st gear also used to hold at 1.1bar but now its only going to 0.8bar max.So im guessing it needs turned up to hold at 1.1bar.

It originally boosted to 1.1bar in all gears and held at that,but i cant remember which way i screwed it.lol.

Thanx
 

MORF114

Active Member
usually clockwise to turn boost up with dawes.
Set it full anti clockwise* (closed), and work at a couple of clicks/turns at a time untill you get what you desire.

*make sure it is clockwise increase and anti to decrease before you turn it back full one way.
 

olliecast

Active Member
i thought on a bleed valve the more boost is the further its wound in, therefore not letting air to be bled off through the wastegate as easy hence upping boost ?? (because the ball bearing has more spring preload holding it down)
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
some are different but i thought the more air= more boost! i turned my mates punto gt bleed valve 2 turns to the left and he noticed a big difference and the boost gauge went up to 15psi from 10!
also hence when you get a boost leak you get more boost, sometimes dangerously too much
 

Braveheart

New Member
From the instruction leaflet:

Loosen the lock nut and rotate the end counter clockwise (makes the controller longer) to decrease the boost.
Loosen the locking nut and turn the brass tip end clock wise, relative to the opposite end(makes the controller shorter) to increase the boost.
 

Braveheart

New Member
Here's the full set-up guide:

Hybrid Boost Controller Installation and Set-Up Instructions
Please read this and the FAQ, before attempting to install!
Precautions:
1) Never increase boost without the available fuel supply to support it. Please read the FAQ for details on monitoring your progress.
2) The controller is shipped at a low boost adjustment to protect your engine. Follow the instructions below to adjust it. Do not change the adjustment before installing the controller.
3) When adjusting the controller, you will find it necessary to uncoil the vacuum hose leading from the boost source to the controller. Do this by rotating the vacuum hose about the end of the controller.
4) Note that the controller has a very small orifice on the end with the elbow attached. It is located on the side of the elbow in one of the dimple recesses. This orifice must not be blocked if the controller is to operate correctly. (See Diagrams)
Let's get Started:
1) Locate the wastgate on your turbo system. Most will have an integral design like the one in the illustration. Attached to the wastegate will be a vacuum line or hose. Remove the hose from the wastegate and plug the hose. A large, short, sheet metal screw works well for this purpose and will not work loose. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH THE WASTEGATE DISCONNECTED. If you have an adjustable wastegate, set it to it's lowest boost setting. Most factory wastegates are NOT adjustable. You'd know if you had one.
2) Attach a length of vacuum hose from the elbow end of the controller to the wastegate nipple. This is the nipple that you just removed the vacuum hose from. Tie wrap it in place, so it can not fall off. Also tie wrap any intermediate fittings that you had to add. If you need extra hose length, vacuum couplings may be obtained at your auto parts store. There are also adapters available to match the inside diameter of the hose to the wastegate nipple, although vacuum hose will stretch considerably.
3) Locate a boost source using the diagrams as a guideline. Now run a piece vacuum hose between the boost source and the straight end of the controller. A drop of oil on the brass tip will aid in adjusting the hose later. Do not use the original wastegate line as your boost source. The best place to use is a nipple on the turbocharger output, if you have one. If there is already a line attached, install a vacuum tee (as close to the nipple as possible). Alternate sources include the intake manifold, or the pipe between the turbo and throttle. Do not tie wrap this hose yet. You will need to rotate the hose about the nipples later.
4) Check all connections to ensure that they will stay on during testing. Now start the vehicle and drive moderately for a few minutes. Notice the boost level while you drive. If you have followed the instructions, you will now have a peak boost that is the same or LOWER than the stock boost setting. If this is true, then proceed to step 5. If boost is higher, check your connections before adjusting the controller. If boost remains higher that stock BREIFLY accelerate in a higher gear (to avoid wheel spin) and note the boost. If boost exceeds your target limit, let off the accelerator immediately and adjust the controller as follows: Loosen the lock nut and rotate the end counter clockwise (makes the controller longer) relative to the rest of the controller, two turns. Hold the opposite end of the controller while doing so. Re-tighten the lock nut and repeat step 4. If you have to lengthen the controller further, be careful that the two pieces do not separate or small pieces may fall out.
5) If you are at this step, then the boost is currently at a stock or lower threshold. Loosen the locking nut and turn the brass tip end clock wise, relative to the opposite end(makes the controller shorter), one turn. Re-tighten the lock nut. Accelerate again in a higher gear and note the new boost setting. Repeat until you have reached your target boost level. Note: it may take a few turns before you begin to see a change. Be patient, do it a turn at a time to avoid overboost. It only takes a half hour or so to complete the adjustment. After a turn or two, you will find that the line from the boost source to the controller becomes twisted. Turn it about the brass tip while holding the controller still. This will relieve the twisting.
6) When your adjustment is completed, tie wrap all connections, and tighten the lock nut.
7) Use caution when driving your newly adjusted vehicle. Control problems may appear during rapid acceleration that were not apparent at the lower, stock boost level.
Modifying the Controller:
The Boost Controller will support boost pressures in excess of 15 psi, but should you find that you cannot reach your desired boost level, the controller may be modified in the following ways. If these methods do not increase the boost limit, you may have reached the flow limits of your system.
1) Separate the two halves of The Boost Controller to allow removal of the locking nut. This will allow you to tighten the controller an extra turn. Note: It is imperative that you replace the internal components of the controller in the position that you found them. The spring goes on the elbow end, closest to the wastegate.
2) Place a washer at the spring end of the controller to increase the spring load.
3) Slightly stretch the spring to increase it's pressure on the aperture.
It is not recommended that you replace the spring, because you may find that the threshold has been raised too high by the new spring.
Monthly Maintenance:
Check the breather hole on the wastegate end for obstruction. Use the illustrations to find it, and make sure the hole is clear by inserting a very slender pin or needle. If the hole remains clear, you may adjust the maintenance schedule to a longer period.
Problems:
1) The boost overshoots my target before settling to a lower level. This is called "spiking". Ensure that you have provided the shortest path possible between the boost source and the controller, and between the controller and the wastegate.
2) The Controller worked great at first, but now my boost level is reduced each time I step on the throttle. Check the breather hole on the elbow end of the boost controller for obstruction. Use the illustrations to find it and make sure the hole is clear by inserting a very slender pin or needle.
3) I melted my pistons because I tried to run 20 more pounds of boost without the fuel to support it. Sorry, but you didn't read the FAQ or the precautions. Any method of raising the boost (bleed, electronic controllers, adjustable wastegates) must be used with caution. The fuel to support the extra air must be present. Use an inexpensive air/fuel gage or EGT probe to monitor your progress. We offer Air/Fuel gauges for this purpose.
 
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Nik_GTI-R

Guest
Just to confirm,my controller is anti-clockwise to turn it up and clockwise to turn it down.
I found out after i turned it anti-clockwise to turn it down,when really i turned it up to full boost and its fuked my turbo and the blew the welds on my manifold.....











































Only kidding i asked the previous owner b4 i turned it at all.lol
 

Braveheart

New Member
Think you would have melted your pistons or blew a vacuum hose off not turbo or manifold.
Anyway why ask us if you had already asked the question.....ffs
 
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