anti lift kit
- Thread starter gtir bean
- Start date
A
ard1ey
Guest
Stops your car taking off at inconvienient moments 
It moves the rear mounting point of the front lower arms downward and outward (more down than out). This adds static caster angle which helps your cornering and also alters the anti-dive/lift geometry so the car is less inclined to lift on its front springs when you accelerate. This helps you get the power down out of a corner without spinning up a wheel.
It moves the rear mounting point of the front lower arms downward and outward (more down than out). This adds static caster angle which helps your cornering and also alters the anti-dive/lift geometry so the car is less inclined to lift on its front springs when you accelerate. This helps you get the power down out of a corner without spinning up a wheel.
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ard1ey
Guest
You'll have to get your head underneath. Look at the bushes on the back of the front lower suspension arms, near to where the anti-roll bar bolts to the body. If they are black, they're probably original Nissan. If they are yellow (even better, if you can see alloy spacer blocks under the clamp bracket) thats your anti-lift kit 8)
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ard1ey
Guest
As it increases the caster angle you might find the car following ruts in the road, etc. but its not that bad. Mine does it, others may not but you just correct it and carry on. In theory more caster will make the car harder to steer, but the 'R power steering sorts that out nicely 8) .
Another benefit to the kit is it adds negative camber when you are cornering, so you don't need so much camber angle when the wheels are pointing straight. This reduces the shoulder wear on tyres that mega-camber will cause.
Another benefit to the kit is it adds negative camber when you are cornering, so you don't need so much camber angle when the wheels are pointing straight. This reduces the shoulder wear on tyres that mega-camber will cause.
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ard1ey
Guest
It might, but the spacers Whiteline supply are about 10mm thick (from memory) and the new bush is taller to take account of this, so the hole the lower arm fits into is at least 10mm lower. Also the top of the bush is shaped to fit the chassis, if you just pack it down it'll start moving about and I'm guessing you'll crash :shock:
You'll have to pull it all apart to pack it with washers anyway, so you may as well fit the proper kit. Bodging anything on the suspension is a really bad idea mate, don't do it
You'll have to pull it all apart to pack it with washers anyway, so you may as well fit the proper kit. Bodging anything on the suspension is a really bad idea mate, don't do it
Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
imo mate i wouldn' t bother, just buy the kit :lol: cant see how you' d hope to replicate a poly bush like this tbhgtir bean said:
just to be helpfull
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ard1ey
Guest
If you did want to pack it out, you could get a piece of material made to the right shape to fit between the chassis and the bush when spacers are fitted to the clamp. You'll still be missing the left-to-right offset and the un-squidgy-ness of the poly bushes though .
I'm not accusing you of bodging BTW, I'm all for DIY if its feasible .
.I'm not accusing you of bodging BTW, I'm all for DIY if its feasible
.
O
Odin
Guest
It's a little lower yes, But the bush hole is off set to one side so will give you more caster as they pushes your wishbones over a littleard1ey said:
.rob
I looked into doing this, partly because the Whiteline kit only adds a degree of castor for a reasonable expense.
First looked at washers, then realising it needed a plate. Then looking in detail noticed it needed a shaped plate. Then noticing that to keep the rest of the geometry it really would need to move down AND out... even though all the text books say this. Then realised I would have to move the whole mounting point by drilling holes and welding on plates. Then thought about whther I'd trust something so heath robinson not to break halfway round a corner........
Then spent £65 on a whiteline kit that did it for me
I hear where you're coming from, its not impossible....but that doen't make it worthwhile doing.
Jim
First looked at washers, then realising it needed a plate. Then looking in detail noticed it needed a shaped plate. Then noticing that to keep the rest of the geometry it really would need to move down AND out... even though all the text books say this. Then realised I would have to move the whole mounting point by drilling holes and welding on plates. Then thought about whther I'd trust something so heath robinson not to break halfway round a corner........
Then spent £65 on a whiteline kit that did it for me
I hear where you're coming from, its not impossible....but that doen't make it worthwhile doing.
Jim