Car wont start second time round ?

[craige101]

Fitted new air regulator took off the plenum, inlet, tps and fuel rail
Fitted it all back together then cranked the car over due to the fuel rail being empty it took about 5-10 seconds then fired up, left it to warm up for 2 mins, then it sat on idol at 950rpm

Had a few more parts to put on the car e.g strutbrace and bonnet so i turned the car off when i was ready to go out on my test run the car wouldnt start so i checked everything and all seemed ok.

I rang my mate up for some help when he came round he took the furthest spark plug out to check for a spark by leaving all the other spark plugs in except the end one placing it on some metal still in the ignition lead, we cranked it over there was a spark so we put it back in turned the car over and it started then turned the car off tried to start it again and it wouldnt start, tried the same method again with the spark plug and still wouldnt start also i know there is fuel going into the rail as whe i disconnect the fuel pipe on the rail, fuel comes out

the car started 2night i took it out for a drive to get it warm, came home after 15min turned it of in garage tryed to start it again nouthing
What i can say is it now sits on idle perfect 950rpm

2 things i can tell you is the idle control srew has been messed with bye me and i guess the last owner who had this problem cos he told me upon sale, its srewed all the way in so i dnt no how you determan what is should be at cos it fires up sits at 1250rpm till warm then sits at 950rpm

Second thing i noticed, this didnt happen before, was that the temp gauge on the dash goes mad up and down but when you stop the car it sits fine i no i lost a little water when changing air regulater but it was very little i also fitted new temp switch

Any ideas wat cousing this not to start second time when remove plugs there a little wet

 

[nitrosgti-r]

temp guage = check the temp switch you fitted as these have a tenancy to break and cause a dodgy signal.

If you lost water then id try and undo the bleed screw for the coolant just in case you have air block?

Try winding that idle screw out as its obviously over fuelling due to the new air regulator. Take out all plugs, dry them off and fire it up.

 

[craige101]

Tuck srew out all it does is idle higher, when i disconect the injectors and crank the fuel out reconect them then it starts always i carnt understand y its flooding second time round and the fans come on and stay on as well ?

 

[gtirjoey]

you have air in your water system, this is why the gauge is flickering and the fans are constantly on 100%. could also be the cause of the over fueling as the temp sensor wont know engine temp.

 

[craige101]

We did the old fashion bleed 2 day 1 on bleed nipple and i had mouth round header tank blowing air through and all seemed ok no air leek ? even though what you said joey is correct

 

[gtirjoey]

try running the car up from cold with cap off dont rev it up just let warm up slowely and just keep topping it up while it warms up. This is how i bleed my water system.
the gauge is controlled by the one pin sensor and the fans the the two pin sensor via the ecu. so it would seem odd you have two faulty sensors so the only real explanation is an air lock

 

[craige101]

What should happen as warter is pored in and wat if rad is full ?
Do i need the bleed nipple open when i do it ?
How will i no when its blead should the fans stop ?

 

[nitrosgti-r]

to bleed the rad you have to undo the bleed nut until just water comes out, or take the cap off and run till warm but make sure the cockpit fan is fully blowing and fully hot....