changing pipe diameters

[Mikey]

This isnt Mikey, it's Dave(my pc's knackered :? )
I need to change from 33mm to 55mm piping for my intercooler(from the turbo outlet flange to the i/c). I'm thinking of just butting the two together with a flange, is this going to cause bad air flow, or turbulence?
Any comments much appreciated,
Cheers, Dave

 

[Sirnixalot]

1) tuning!

2) no it isnt going to cause massive turbulance if you have it gradually change, if you just fill up the space between the 2 pipes with weld then it will cause turbulance....nothing that will cause a loss in power though

 

[stevepudney]

Cut a slot in the new section of 55mm pipe about to about 3/4's of the way up then squeeze the cut end down to 33mm, crude but now you have a tapered pipe. Now weld the cut you made, then weld another straight peice of 55mm on the 55mm end and weld the 33mm end to the inside edge of original peice of flanged pipe. Sorted

Steve

 

[antilag]

davey y r u making the outlet so short mate wouldnt it be better to use the standard one which goes bigger anyway i have one spare if u need one

 

[Mikey]

I gave him my spare one mate, thats the one he has chopped up :roll:

 

[Fast Guy]

you could try a silicon reducer if they do it in that size or I think they do metal reducers for exhausts as well. Or ring forge (if it's for a standard set up) and see if they'll let you have one of theirs.

 

[skiddusmarkus]

http://www.samcosport.com/reducers.asp

There's no 55>33mm though.To make the reducer for my blitz filter,I made a cone template from cardboard.I then cut steel to the same shape and welded it to make a smooth(ish)funnel from the mahoosive air filter into the MAF.I don't know what thicknesse you can get alloy in but I'd imagine it to be pretty flexible.

 

[Davey]

Thanks for the replies lads
Sorry sirnix, er, it wasnt my computer and the keyboards different,so it was'nt my fault

Steve, i tried something similar(cut a slot either side of the pipe) but i couldnt get it to look decent, and didnt really have the patience to try again

Dave, the outlet goes into a 90* bend (one of those lovely trust ones ) the short bit of pipe in the picture is just to show the difference in sizes, was going to do it the same as you and mikey, but just thought i'd try something different, if it dont work, ill just chuck it away.

Carl, we've already tried forge, and they aint interested, might try them again though

Skid, are you saying you cut a flat bit of steel, and rolled it into a cone, then welded it mate? How hard was it to do, and what did it look like?

I was just going to cut a flat bit of metal to use as a flange, but now my brother is going to machine a cone from ally, and weld that to it, the same as forge do with their pipes, so (hopefully) it shoudnt have any turbulence now, and should'nt look too rough, ill post some pictures up when its done.

 

[skiddusmarkus]

Yes-that's what I did.It took me at least an hour to get the cone right.It had to be perfect diameter on each end and that was harder than I thought it would be just adjusting it bit by bit.
The steel was easy enough to cut and the welding I left to my dad but that didn't take long at all.The welds aren't exactly up to tig standard but the inside is nice and smooth which is what counts.

 

[Fast Guy]

http://www.samcosport.com/reducers.asp

There's no 55>33mm though.

Not in a single step, but you could use 3 together to get there, but that would probably look abit messy tho.

 

[skiddusmarkus]

And expensive-they're about £13 each :shock: .

 

[GINGA]

You could just do this with the standard outlet pipe, just involves cutting it in half and turning in round and rewelding it.

 

[skiddusmarkus]

Or maybe rotate it 120 degrees anticlockwise.