Cold Air Feed.

Chris1

Chris1

Member
Afternoon all.

Just a quick question about induction.

I remember a little while back that Silvia Engineering (SE Nissan) made a rather nice air-box with a cold air feed running from the big old bonnet scoop.
There web page no longer exists and was wondering if they have gone out of business?

I've got a HKS induction kit at the mo and didn't know if an air-box with a direct air feed like SE's item would be more benificial?

Ta very much.

Chris.
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Thats good old Edd the de tuner.

I've got the SE Nssan under bonnet scoop (fitted) along with there air box (not fitted), if I could be bothered to fit the air box I think it's a worth while kit.

I was going to take a mould off the scoop and box and start producing them in fibre glass, you interested ??
 
maz

maz

New Member
id like one with the ability to intake air from both the scoop and brake duct, can never be a bad thing having too much cold air can it?
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
MINESGTIR said:
why dont you make this up.. surely its a better idea?




could knock it out in a weekend!
Click to expand...
That’s a very good bit of DIY :-D

No disrespect intended……….but you might have the ability and tools e.t.c. to "knock it out in a weekend" but not everybody has the time, inclination or equipment to fabricate something like that.

My idea was copy the cold air ducting SE Nissan used to make and to make a quality fibre glass cold air duct kit that utilized the existing bonnet scoop that any owner could fit easily bolt into place without the need to fabricate anything.

Although saying that the SE Nissan kit would only fit cars that have the Forge or Norris Designs FMIC kit and have the battery in the boot.
 
rayman75

rayman75

New Member
mine has the existing brake duct hole, and it looks like at some point it has had the intake from the scoope or something.


its for sale if anyone is interested.
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
Minesgtir, that air intake ducting looks great and I bet it works really well. Good job!
With the other method, I'd be a little worried about re-directiing all the air from the bonnet air intakes as it gets very hot under there and it's not unknown for brake and clutch problems due to the fluids getting too hot.
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Braveheart said:
Minesgtir, that air intake ducting looks great and I bet it works really well. Good job!
With the other method, I'd be a little worried about re-directiing all the air from the bonnet air intakes as it gets very hot under there and it's not unknown for brake and clutch problems due to the fluids getting too hot.
Click to expand...
What !!! :der:

I've had the SE Nissan under bonnet air scoop fitted for 2 years (2 summers) running in excess of 1.7 bar with no problems at all. The underbonnet scoop still leaves the smaller air vents open.

The pulsar also performs very well with no cold air intake at all and a standard Sunny flat bonnet.

Anyway if you’re using the right synthetic brake/clutch fluids they will easily deal with any under bonnet temperatures anybody could throw at it.
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
stevepudney said:
What !!! :der:

Right Steve,

Thanks for your knowledge and correcting my misleading concerns.
Brake / fluid problems can be caused by heat creep from caliper but I have seen a pulsar with clutch fluid issues (soft pedal) after a hard track session and I put it down to engine bay tempratures but maybe I was wrong. The clutch did recover after a cooling down period.:?
Click to expand...
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Braveheart said:
stevepudney said:
What !!! :der:

Right Steve,

Thanks for your knowledge and correcting my misleading concerns.
Brake / fluid problems can be caused by heat creep from caliper but I have seen a pulsar with clutch fluid issues (soft pedal) after a hard track session and I put it down to engine bay tempratures but maybe I was wrong. The clutch did recover after a cooling down period.:?
Click to expand...
probably had more to do with the fact that he was using crappy halfrauds 4.1 fluid and someone had put a cold air duct to feed his air filter/inlet where the factory fitted brake cooling ducts were once sited so the brakes overheated :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...
 
O

Odin

Guest
Braveheart said:
stevepudney said:
What !!! :der:
Click to expand...
Right Steve,

Thanks for your knowledge and correcting my misleading concerns.
Brake / fluid problems can be caused by heat creep from calliper but I have seen a pulsar with clutch fluid issues (soft pedal) after a hard track session and I put it down to engine bay temperatures but maybe I was wrong. The clutch did recover after a cooling down period.:?
Click to expand...
That's because you gave the brakes/clutch time to cool down, And not because of under bonnet temps, The brakes/clutch get hot through hard use on track that's why you should always do at least one cool down lap and not do much more that 15/20 mins on track at any one time.

You should never park up with your foot on the brake or put the hand brake on ether because you can warp the disc's :cry: .


Rob
 
O

Odin

Guest
Oh and as Steve said you should always use good brake fluid such as 5.1 or as in my case mintex racing blue, And good quality brake pads and not green stuff lol.



Rob
 
Chris1

Chris1

Member
Bonnet scoop blocking off issue,

My last R had the scoop blocked completly, as advised by Tommi Mak's mechanic in an article somewhere I think.
It was to allow hot air to escape, so I am told, through the side vents and prevent air from entering via the main scoop and swishing all the hot air around the bay.
Not sure if this worked but I never had a problem.

Minesgtir,

That does look like a rather fancy bit of kit.
I know the brake cooling ducts aren't that great but if just a extra little bit of cool air reaches your brakes, surely that's a good thing? Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking what you have done.

stevepudney,

I would be quite tempted by the thought of a replica SE kit. The cars I saw with them fitted looked real smart, and keeping the air-filter away from the hot stuff, and in a box full off yummy cold stuff, must be the way to go?
As a matter of interest, how much would these little babies go for?

Cheers.
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Imho, the brake ducts are redundant as, all they do is direct air onto the front of the tyre. The little bit of air that may sneak round the back of the wheel, either hits the back of the wheel arch, completely missing the brake components or, hits the brake disc gravel guard (if you still have it) and again, misses the brake disc altogether. Even without the gravel guards, very little cool air will hit the discs etc... The best option is bigger discs !
I have a 100mm corregated aluminium ducting pipe in mine that leads round to the hole in the N/S inner arch. You can definitely notice the difference between having it there and not having it there. The car feels much more 'lively' with the cold air feed in place.

Personally, I think Minesgtir is the best kit, both technically speaking and from an ease of installation perspective, with minimal prerequisits to fitting (you just need to move the battery iirc ?!) If he could knock some of these out, I'm sure he'd have a lot of takers, me being one of them.

Steve's is also a very nice idea but, you'd require an FMIC, maybe even a specific FMIC, to fit it properly.
 
M

MINESGTIR

New Member
everyone has their own ideas for intake and induction..
IMO the brake ducts are shit and dont do anything..
you wouldnt believe the difference a direct cold air feed makes with larger intake hose to the turbo... it sounds so much louder and makes very noticable performance gain.

it was an "erebuni cold air feed" made by SE NISSTEK wasnt it ?
 
Chris1

Chris1

Member
Point taken chief.

It would be nice to have something like you have got but that thing has got some sort of fabrication involved to do it in a weekend. But I suppose saying that, once you have done one, it's much easier the next time.

I dont suppose you would be willing to share the dimmensions etc needed to fabricate one? Got a rather handy fabrication department at work and they get bored on Sunday mornings, lol.

Cheers.
 
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