Has anybody attempted to improve the design of the GTIR cooling system, specifically;
1. The thermostat being near the top of the engine, so it will/may close if the water level ever reduces.. My mk1 golf has it at the lowest point, surely the sensible place for it.
2. The top hose level is around the same level as the water in the cylinder head. The cylinder head internal waterway surface area must be under 100% water coverage if local hotspots are not to be a problem.
3. There is no expansion tank, just a blowby valve system that I have minimal faith in
4. Ruddy great front mount in front of the water radiator.
5. Water pump speed has been questioned
6. Stuff all air flow out of the bonnet area, plenty of potential air flow in.
7. I have a double row copper rad in now, thinking they are more efficient than alloy for the same physical size?
8. Localised boiling after shutdown from full load a problem?
9. Water pressure at full engine load. ie is it enough to blow water out past the cap?
10. Water wetter work?
Possible mods;
1. Relocate thermostat, possible a remote unit at/near the bottom of the engine.
2. The existing bleed hole could be piped to an expansion tank, so it would bleed when running, or another tapping (1/4"?) could be T ed into the top hose and fed back to an expansion tank
3. Most cars have an expansion tank, why not the GTIR? No room (packaging?) No height available? (engine too tall?). I intend to add my own
4. Probably going to downsize my IC, as its hard up against the rad, so it doesnt get smashed when i 'rub' straw bail chicanes
5. My car peaks at 6K due to the turbo 34mm inlet restrictor, do I need to run a smaller pulley?
6. Going to attempt to 'aero' the air out, to get more flow.
7. Try an alloy rad (i have one already) when I do 4.
8. Electric water to circulate the water after shutdown
9. Going to plumb a dash mounted gauage in, out of daftness
10. Try some, but I am usually sceptical about american wonder fixes
The reason I am asking myself these questions is my rally car gets a real caning from warm for 5 miles the cools off, 8 times usually in a rally. From a thermal stress point of view this must be near the worst case scenario..
At stage end the gauge (midway up the bottom hose, capillary type) reads 90-100.
Had the head off mine a couple of times, as a precaution for a look. Never had any sign of head gasket issues.
It would be good to share these thoughts with you experienced guys. Feedback welcomed....
Jon
1. The thermostat being near the top of the engine, so it will/may close if the water level ever reduces.. My mk1 golf has it at the lowest point, surely the sensible place for it.
2. The top hose level is around the same level as the water in the cylinder head. The cylinder head internal waterway surface area must be under 100% water coverage if local hotspots are not to be a problem.
3. There is no expansion tank, just a blowby valve system that I have minimal faith in
4. Ruddy great front mount in front of the water radiator.
5. Water pump speed has been questioned
6. Stuff all air flow out of the bonnet area, plenty of potential air flow in.
7. I have a double row copper rad in now, thinking they are more efficient than alloy for the same physical size?
8. Localised boiling after shutdown from full load a problem?
9. Water pressure at full engine load. ie is it enough to blow water out past the cap?
10. Water wetter work?
Possible mods;
1. Relocate thermostat, possible a remote unit at/near the bottom of the engine.
2. The existing bleed hole could be piped to an expansion tank, so it would bleed when running, or another tapping (1/4"?) could be T ed into the top hose and fed back to an expansion tank
3. Most cars have an expansion tank, why not the GTIR? No room (packaging?) No height available? (engine too tall?). I intend to add my own
4. Probably going to downsize my IC, as its hard up against the rad, so it doesnt get smashed when i 'rub' straw bail chicanes
5. My car peaks at 6K due to the turbo 34mm inlet restrictor, do I need to run a smaller pulley?
6. Going to attempt to 'aero' the air out, to get more flow.
7. Try an alloy rad (i have one already) when I do 4.
8. Electric water to circulate the water after shutdown
9. Going to plumb a dash mounted gauage in, out of daftness
10. Try some, but I am usually sceptical about american wonder fixes
The reason I am asking myself these questions is my rally car gets a real caning from warm for 5 miles the cools off, 8 times usually in a rally. From a thermal stress point of view this must be near the worst case scenario..
At stage end the gauge (midway up the bottom hose, capillary type) reads 90-100.
Had the head off mine a couple of times, as a precaution for a look. Never had any sign of head gasket issues.
It would be good to share these thoughts with you experienced guys. Feedback welcomed....
Jon