Fitting top-mount Oil Cooler...

A

Adamantium

Guest
Ok, so I’ve got myself a 13row top-mount oil cooler (with the thermostatic sandwich plate) that I need to fit ...





I've done a search and I can't see any guide or instructions on fitting (and it didn't come with any), so any help would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Adam.
 
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davey red.r

davey red.r

New Member
adam if i remember right you were looking for an r 400bhp? with them figures mate ,you would of been better getting a 19row,as the thirteen is only suitable for roughly 350bhp ,cheers davey;-)
 
A

Adamantium

Guest
davey red.r said:
adam if i remember right you were looking for an r 400bhp? with them figures mate ,you would of been better getting a 19row,as the thirteen is only suitable for roughly 350bhp ,cheers davey;-)
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Car will only be running 350bhp - tops. ;-)
 
MORF114

MORF114

Active Member
13 should be fine for 400bhp its not the horsepower its the use which the size depends on a track/sprint car is gonna get alot more hotter than a road car or a drag car .

There is never any instructions its one of those kits you have to figure out a way to do it yourself. just look through galaries and see how others have mounted and take a few ideas from other oil coolers.
 
stumo

stumo

Active Member
Make sure you route the pipes well away from the pullies/belts as you'd be surprised how much the pipes move about.
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Adam,

First off, I'd mount the core. This will use those straps, that you form into brackets. You will need to mount this on the rocker cover so that it is sitting inline to catch the cool air coming through the bonnet scoop.
Attach it so that the oil lines are on the top edge of the cooler.
Route the oil lines down towards the oil filter at the back of the engine. As stumo said, make sure they're secure and not touching any moving parts.

Then go and get the oil changed and get them to mount the sandwich plate and connect the oil lines up and fill her back up with oil.
Crank the engine over, with the dizzy plug disconnected, to build oil pressure. Then start her up an check for leaks.

Job done.
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
You shouldn't need to disconnect the dizzy plug as if the sandwich plate is thermostatically controlled then in theory its just like changing the oil and filter on an engine without a cooler, isnt it? as the sandwich plate will be closed until it reaches 80 degrees or whatever its rated for.

Top mounted should be relatively easy to install as you wont have to route the feed and return through awkward places compared to front mounting. Plus the top mount area is well open space wise so no prob's there.

Ant.
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
only tip i will give you is DO NOT overtighten the sandwich plate bolt, as you will snap the alloy thread on the existing oil cooler housing, then you will have to remove it and bolt another housing in its place
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
antgtir said:
You shouldn't need to disconnect the dizzy plug as if the sandwich plate is thermostatically controlled then in theory its just like changing the oil and filter on an engine without a cooler, isnt it? as the sandwich plate will be closed until it reaches 80 degrees or whatever its rated for.
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Ant,
Cranking the engine over, with the distributor main plug disconnected is a precaution I take whenever I have my oil changed. It allows the engine to build oil pressure and pump oil round without any load on the moving parts, bearings specifically as, the engine won't start. This minimises wear from lack of lubrication ! ;-)
 
A

Adamantium

Guest
youngsyp said:
Adam,

First off, I'd mount the core. This will use those straps, that you form into brackets.
Click to expand...
I assume from the various pics i've seen, this is done by bending / snapping the two straps to give myself a suitible mount fixture?
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
youngsyp said:
Ant,
Cranking the engine over, with the distributor main plug disconnected is a precaution I take whenever I have my oil changed. It allows the engine to build oil pressure and pump oil round without any load on the moving parts, bearings specifically as, the engine won't start. This minimises wear from lack of lubrication ! ;-)
Click to expand...
Paul: Posh bugger:lol: ;-)

Adam: Yes just mould / modify the straps to suit your application. I found them not to be too strong tbh so you may need to get some others, or you may not, depends what you do with them.;-)

I mounted my cooler in the passenger brake duct with the brackets supplied plus an additional one for strength and created like a triangular frame for the cooler to sit on, it doesn't move a centimeter:-D plus i managed to re introduce the brake ducting so you cant even tell that its got a cooler now and the air flow is as used to be so i now have a dual purpose brake duct:thumbsup:

The air passing through this duct will be hotter than if there wasn't a cooler but its prob about 600 degree min cooler than the brakes so im sure its gonna have a positive effect lol:lol:

As Bob says, do not overtighten both the nut that bolts the plate to the oe cooler and also be careful not to overtighten as the seal will squash too much and create a void when spread so you will have a nice pool of oil wherever you go:lol: :roll:

Common sense really but worth a mention all the same.

Good luck with the install.

Ant.
 
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