General info needed?

[jambo_gtir]

Hi everyone, just need a bit of advice on a few problems;
- Since i have rebuilt my engine and been driving about everything seems fine apart from one thing. When i turn the engine off then pull the dip-stick out, smoke/steam comes out from the tube. Is this normal? The gauges in the car show a good oil pressure and temp.
- Second thing; The reason i took the engine out in the first place was because i had coolant problems and hoses kept coming off. All the hoses are replaced now and thermostat and water pump. The thing is after a long run the hoses from the rad are rock hard, are they supposed to be?
Any info would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks

 

[KF79GTIR]

First thing to do is get a compresion check done also have you tried pulling the dip stick out and reving it whilst running if you get smoke then it sounds like worn rings/knackered pistons if so then it sounds like rebuild time.

Kev.

 

[jambo_gtir]

I have tried what you suggested mate, nothing comes out when i remove dipstick and rev it. The compression on all 4 is healthy aswell. I might just do an oil change and see if that helps.
What about the coolant pipes though, should they be hard?
Cheers.

 

[EssexAaron]

have you bled the water system of air?

 

[pulsarboby]

as aaron above said?

secondly if the engines just been built the rings will not have bedded properly so you may find its breathing a little heavy untill you get a few miles on it.

regarding the water and pipes being hard, thats not so good as they possibly could be pressurising if the head gasket hasnt sealed correctly.
did you use a cometic steel gasket? if so was the block face and head 100% true? as there boogers for leaking if they are not perfect.

 

[irishjohn]

The Cooling System Is Designed To Build Some Pressure As When Collant Is Under Pressure It Cools More Effectively. The Rad Cap Blows Off At Between 1-1.2 Bar And Then Dumps It In The Over Flow. If You Are Worried Do A Leak Down Test And Watch For Bubbles In The Rad As Any Head Gasket Leak Of Cylinder Head Crack Will Allow Air To Leak Into The Rad. There Are Also Fluid Available That Change Colour In The Presence For Combustion Gasses So This can Also Be Used To Find Hard To Find Leaks..good Luck With Your R.

 

[jambo_gtir]

Cheers guys. I took the cap off yesterday and let it heat up, a few air bubbles came out then it settled, seems better now.
The compression check was quite good, just under 150 on all cylinders, although number 4 was a little bit lower than the rest, like 10 psi?

 

[youngsyp]

Cheers guys. I took the cap off yesterday and let it heat up, a few air bubbles came out then it settled, seems better now.
The compression check was quite good, just under 150 on all cylinders, although number 4 was a little bit lower than the rest, like 10 psi?

Sounds like you had air in the system ?!

Just to add to irishjohn's comments:
The coolant system doesn't pressurise to cool more effectively, it does so to stop the coolant boiling.
As we all know, water boils at 100 degrees C at sea level air pressure (1 bar/14.14.7 psi). By pressurising coolant system, the water/coolant will boil at a higher temperature.
Once pressure builds up in the coolant system, the rad cap (0.9 bar stock rating) will relieve this and coolant will flow into the overflow reservoir.
Of course, you can buy aftermarket radiator caps that will open at 1.3 bar. This will simply allow the coolant system to run hotter, before the coolant boils but, may blow out an old rad.
A coolant system will naturally build pressure, simply due to the process of the coolant heating up. Warmer molecules take up more space and move around more.
The only thing to control this pressure is the integrity of the coolant system, the rad cap and the rad fans

Paul

 

[jambo_gtir]

cheers for the info mate 8)
i got my rad off ebay last year, its a 'gopher' one i thing and seems very good aat keeping collant temp down. I thing the rad cap they provided me with is wrong though because it never seems to release any water back to expansion tank.
Just to finish off this thread, can someone please just state how hard the coolant pipes should be lol? mine are still hard but i can squeez them a bit. Im just really paranoid and want it all running fine.
Cheers

 

[youngsyp]

Just to finish off this thread, can someone please just state how hard the coolant pipes should be lol? mine are still hard but i can squeez them a bit. Im just really paranoid and want it all running fine.
Cheers

They sound OK to me. Plus, if you have the wrong rad cap on, and it doesn't open, the pressure in the system will be higher.
Personally, I'd get that fixed ASAP.

Paul

 

[jambo_gtir]

Im having problems AGAIN with coolant leaking. Every shitting coolant pipe is brand new now, rad is less than a year old and today i noticed a water leak .
Going back to above, im sure the pipes are way too hard all the time. The engine and oil temp seems nice and low though when driving and i don't seem to have any problems. Im just sure the whole system is under too much pressure; hence pipes going all the time. I got my rad off ebay (as stated above) and it came with its own rad cap, could it be this does anyone reckon?
Cheers

 

[Fast Guy]

Where's it leaking from?

Was the rad a new one off ebay?

Sounds like you might have a blockage somewhere.

 

[steve963]

the pipes into and out of my rad are easily 'squashable' IIRC

 

[jambo_gtir]

i can't see where it is leaking from yet, i will have a look today. The rad was brand new off ebay, its a big ally one.
When i had the engine out i flushed the head and everything so i'm not sure it has got a blockage?
Yer if yours are easily squashable then i must have a problem, mine are rock hard :sad:
ill check for blockages though today, cheers mate.
Any other ideas?
Thanks.

 

[Braveheart]

As mentioned, your rad hoses top and bottom should not be hard... firm when hot and less firm when cold.
Does your top hose get hot? If not then your thermostat is not opening.
Is there a chanel below rad cap on radiator to expansion bottle? Coolant will flow between rad and expansion bottle when hot.
Is your rad cap working and what is the pressure setting. Can you depress the spring between rad cap and seal washer?
I suspect it's your radiator cap that's either the wrong pressure or knackered.
Also, you may want to try bleeding the block / rad using the 10mm nut on thermostat housing. http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44564&highlight=bleed+rad