In need of help a.s.a.p. !!!!!

R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Hello guys.

So...bumped into this big problem.

I know that I discussed and over discussed in some other thread but I need some help A.S.A.P.

The turbo fits without any problems but the actuator wont fit by any means.
I took a longer rod, center it, weld it.....made another actuator bracket so the actuator wouldn't be close to the manifold or the turbo.

This was 3 days work time (2 hours per day) and now ...NO RESULTS....
I've tested the actuator to see how it works at approx 1 bar pressure and the gate opens approx 25 degrees, I HAVE HAD ENOUGH!!!

Now I want to tap the the manifold weld a 90 degree neck and a flange for an external wastegate.
Please advice on :

-how should I blank the internal wastegate
-what external wastegate should I buy ....38mm , 44mm ????

Please note that the turbo is an GARRETT GT3071R Internally wastegated
 
Smo

Smo

Active Member
Is this because of a clearance issue for the turbo? If so you could simplify this with a spacer between the block and manifold to bring the turbo closer to the rad and away from the block. It's what I had to do with my 3076r and am now running a 10mm spacer just to stop the turbo hitting the gearbox. This could give you the space you need?
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Do you need to bend the wastegate actuator rod? The default one is bent isn't it, so I'm just wondering if you need to bend it for a 3071 also.
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
http://www.nissangtir.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28556&PN=8

Please see the clearance between the turbo and the block....it's approx 5 mm so I don't need spacer blocks between head and manifold.

Smo thanks for the idea but I don't thionk that it's gonna work.

If I bend the rod then the actuator wont open at all because there are too many angles.
Actually I have an 1 bar actuator wich is quite big and this is the reason why I need a bigger rod.

Can anybody give me an idea of how big should the external wastegate be for my current turbo?

Cheers for the input
 
Empty Pockets

Empty Pockets

New Member
I'm having the same problem Bogdan, the only place the actuator fits leaves the rod angle unable to fully open the gate, i have cut the tab off thats attatched to the wastegate flap and rotated it around 75° to create a good angle for the actuator rod, i just need to find an actuator with 3cm rod travel and i should be fine, going to phone forge and see if they make an actuator with extra travel. I'll let you know how i get on.
 
Empty Pockets

Empty Pockets

New Member
I might have to go external aswell mate, just got off the phone from forge and they say their actuators only travel around 12mm, i'm pretty sure he's wrong as the pulsar actuator moves 20mm, and they make a gtir version so go figure ? I'm either going to have to grind off and re-weld the gate rod back to it's original position, then make a new actuator bracket and weld a big 'N' onto the actuator rod to get the desired angles, or go external, the lesser of two evils i suppose. Will let you know how we get on mate, and good luck lol.
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Cheers.

So....I have decided....I'll go with the external one.
It will be much more easy but I have only one question...
With what external wastegate should I go...38 or 44 mm???
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Hi there.

So.....went for the external wastegate as discussed previously.

Check this out (this should be a good info for you too Empty Pockets)










I have also welded a 90 degrees pipe on the standard cast manifold.

I will add pictures later on because I can't find the cable from the camera.
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Cheers.

Your question is not silly....is very well put actually!!

I cut the manifold flange to stop it cracking and also for heat expansion.

When I cut the flange it expended imediatly because of the welds that were tendsioned really bad.

The reason for cracking of stainless steel are:
-improper welding sequence
-improper materials used
-stainless stell of a low grade
-welding machines not calibrated properly

etc etc etc....with this I can go on and on and on :))))
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
@shroom

The manifold is a crap Autbahn 88 one

But..............all the welds were inspected.....gauged out were damaged or didn't seem to be ok....rewelded properly.
Actually the manifold's welding was replaced approx 75% by welding it properly and aligning it!!!
 
shroom

shroom

Active Member
RO_SUNNY said:
@shroom

The manifold is a crap Autbahn 88 one

But..............all the welds were inspected.....gauged out were damaged or didn't seem to be ok....rewelded properly.
Actually the manifold's welding was replaced approx 75% by welding it properly and aligning it!!!
Click to expand...
ah that sounds interesting, just I have what seems to be the same manifold as yourself lying about and if your saying re welding and doing it properly will make it useful it may be woth it ;-) its not always as simple as just putting braces on it
 
watoga

watoga

Member
RO_SUNNY said:
When I cut the flange it expanded immediately because of the welds that were tensioned really bad.
Click to expand...
I agree with what you're saying, but I'm just worried if I cut the flange, then the manifold holes will no longer line up with the exhaust ports if its badly tensioned. Another thing that worries me is, does cutting gaps in the flange badly effect how straight and true the mounting face is, particularly if the manifold is badly tensioned to begin with?

I can't weld so I'd have to get someone else to do it, but I'm just wondering if cutting, re-welding and making sure the port holes line up and the mounting flange is level might make a cheap Ebay manifold turn into an expensive item! LOL!

Interested to see how you get on and what results you get out of it!

Keep posting the excellent photos,
Thanks,
Dave
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
First you need a metal plate in wich you make some holes and align the manifold flange holes with it.....then you put some bolts and tighten the 2 flanges together....and then cut!
Also if you observe that the manifold flange starts to move when you cut and separate the ports .....them you can take a gas torch and heat it up to detension it.

Cheers,
Bogdan
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
The answer regarding manifold and external wastegate.
I've done both stainless stell and cast manifold ......for external wastegate conection



 
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