Is the Transfer box life sealed?

[boucherie]

finally brought a 3/8" bar to remove the filler plug on the transfer box. It was a halfords 'professional' one and had a lifetime guarantee with it. Got the R back up on the car ramp put the bar in and couldnt undo the plug. Tried a bit harder and not a budge. Got the old man to give me a look and when he had a go he pulled so hard on the filler plug that the bar sheared off so ive now got a bit of the bar in the filler plug waiting to be extracted :shock: :shock: I thought that this was abit strange as they are only meant to be torqued to around 30nm max and the amount of force we were applying was way over that. To make matters worse the drain plugs exactly the same, so either the transfer box has been life sealed or the last person to work on it (i think it might have been SE nisstek when the gearbox was shotpeened) has used an air rachet to seal it shut. :evil: :?

whats the most likely answer :?: :?:

 

[AJ4]

Se Nisstek....

 

[kizzyturbo4x4]

took me quite some anger the first time i opened it.
but now i know not to torque it to hard.
but the drain plug on the transfer ive never managed to open....
either the plug goes or the tools go... been sucking the oil out. :?

 

[boucherie]

yeah i thought the se nisstek bit would get a few comments. i cant personally say what the service is like but the bloke i brought it from never seemed to have a problem with em :!:

 

[Keira]

im not questioning anyones inteligence here but you are 100% you're doing it the right way :?: :lol:

 

[Fast Guy]

The threads are supposed to be sealed, (but I haven't bothered yet ) but they shouldn't be that tight 14-22lbft drain plug and 13-19lbft filler. Use a longer bar to more leverage

 

[geetee]

What are they supposed to be sealed with?

 

[Fast Guy]

It just says sealing point, I can't find what it refers to tho. Thread sealant? :?

 

[kizzyturbo4x4]

well the org thread sealing stuff is quite soft so if someone uses another selant that might llock it up to good!

 

[MarkTurbo]

but the drain plug on the transfer ive never managed to open....

I've never managed to get either the drain or filler on my transferbox undone :?

So i changed the oil when the engine was out by tipping it out the driveshaft hole, and then filling it again through the same hole :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[topcat]

the sealant is nissan liquid gasket.. non silocone type.

the plugs can be over tightend and a Cnut to get out..

 

[ashills]

i used a breaker bar with 2 foot extension bar on end as they are very hard to get out also best to buy the drain plug remover and put a socket onto that as its less stress on the end of ratchet

 

[turblio]

I think the alloy tends to decay and the threads bond together pre stress
the bar then hit it very hard several times this can break the seal better
than just pulling like tarzan :lol:
(ps mine was built at nisstek and I undone it ok last weekend :!: )

 

[jasegould]

I managed to undo mine.....not without breaking a bar tho T'was a pain in the arse to undo.

 

[ex-gtir]

always a pain allways roundoff

 

[watoga]

Dear all,

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but thought it might show my use of the search button and stop multiple similar-themed threads from being created Anyway, time has come to change the gearbox/transferbox/diff oils on my GTiR, but unfortunately I have 2 plugs which simply will not budge using traditional methods (ie breaker bar + pipe for leverage). From reading previous posts, there seems to be a couple of options:

1 - Use a blowtorch/heat-gun to apply direct heat to the seized plug, then immediately use the breaker bar + pipe method to try and break the seal. Is there a point when I should say "Stop and move on to #2"? Should I be worried about cracking the box/diff-housing?

2 - Use the filler plug (which came out easily) to extract the oil using some sort of suction system. Has anyone done this before? Is it possible to remove all (or at least most) of the oil present in the housing? If this isn't feasible then perhaps try #3?

3 - Use some sort of penetrating spray (WD-40 or similar) to try and soak the threads and help free up the seal. Is there a particular spray that someone has used before that has worked?

I have access to a hammer-action air gun, but I'm worried to use it at the minute in case I crack the housing.

Any suggestions or ideas?
Many thanks,
Dave

 

[steve963]

i blow torched mine (plumbers one) and it came undone, i tried everything before

wait first though incase somebody has horry story about doing this!

 

[stumo]

1 that might work, you can use either a blowtorch or an electric heat gun

1.5 you could try a freezer spray, you'll get it from Maplins, CPC, RS components, most electrical suppliers etc

2 the suck method should work to some point, i guess it depends on how well the sucker will suck

3 i would either use plusgas or diesel or a product from a company called Wurth called Rostoff. you can usually find it sold in engineering supply shops or hydraulic shops etc

 

[red reading]

i use a snap-on air impact gun with the correct square plug socket fitting,or any of the above than stuno has said.

 

[stumo]

yeah Danny. you can use that too!

As danny says, use the correct size square plug tool, the correct size isn't a 3/8th ratchet square......