Juddering and holds back when at 0.6bar boost!

olliecast

Active Member
Juddering and holds back when at 0.6bar boost! NOW FIXED!!!!

Hi guys,
Was just cruising to the petrol station today as i was pretty low on fuel (needle was nearly at the lowest line). I went to gather speed up to 70 and as it went up to 0.6bar of boost the car juddered and held back (running 1 bar)
I tried to gently bring it on boost about 10 times and it did exactly the same.

Filled up with fuel and still doing the same.

Spoke with the bobbymeister and he thinks it could be the fuel filter. This was new on about 1000 miles ago but i`m pretty sure i`ve never run it this low on fuel before so like he said, i could`ve picked some shit up out me tank.

Only new thing i`ve done to it as put on a blanking kit at the weekend but it ran lurvley for a day after fitting this. Problem only seems to have happened tonight (was fine yesterday and all weekend).

MAF ws regrounded a month ago

fault code check is 55.
lambda sensor is still flicking on my blatz software so cetain it won`t be that.

Fuel filter i put on was not a nissan item, it was slightly larger.
I`m picking up a nissan filter tomorrow but was just wondering if anybody else has experienced a similar sort of juddering? :? I`ve read abou hesitation but not juddering aswell (not massive but noticable)

Cheers, ollie
 
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fkw17

Guest
Could your timing be out? Mine had a similar situation juttering manage to pull full boost but i was goin no where.
 
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gtirbhp

Guest
ive been here before and it turned out to be fuel filter so thats always worth a try!
 

rx jamie

New Member
definately the fuel filter. my car done this a few times after i got caught short by the petrol light. when the level of fuel gets low you can get bits of crap getting pulled from the tank into the filter. i just put a new filter on it the first time. then it happenned again a week or so later, so i just back flushed the fuel filter and washed all the black flakes out. ran perfectly after that.
 

olliecast

Active Member
in a right mood now. Just took the fuel filter off, blew all the fuel back through it and the fuel is clear apart from a few flakes in the bottom of the bowl i blew it into.
Put a new nissan item on but to no avail.
Seems to be missing on tick over now to the extent where you can feel it in the car. Checked all the connections under the bonnet and they seem fine.

went for a road test and again, as boost is building the holding back and juddering. Feels like hitting a bloody wall with a judder!!

Could it be my fuel pump giving up the ghost? bloke i bought it off said it had a walbro on but i`ve never checked (although noble said the mixture was excellent when i put it up to a bar).

What would you guys suggest next?? :sad::sad::sad:
 

gtirx2

Active Member
Coil lead breaking down?Mine did this once,is it worse coming on boost and clears up a bit in the high revs?How bad is the juddering?
 

olliecast

Active Member
i daren`t take it up to high revs at the moment incase its running lean. The juddering is bad enough to not want me to rev it if you get me. feels like hitting a wall when just coming onto the boost and makes you back off immediately
Was cutting out at about 0.4bar boost earlier aswell so its not specifically related to a specific level of boost.

any other ideas? is it best to get some new leads from nissan?
 

antgtir

New Member
I personally would remove all the electrical consumables on the car and inspect them. So start with the plugs and see what condition they are in, clean them up and re gap.

Check the leads for obvious signs of shorting i.e. black staining etc, replace if not done so fairly recently as they are prone to breaking down due to the heat from the engine.

Check the MAF with a known good working one, (this was the problem with mine and had a similar issue although maybe not as developed as yours).

Keep flushing the fuel filter to ensure you aren't just clearing the lines now.

As a matter of course re check the ECU for any fault codes appearing.

Ant.
 

olliecast

Active Member
antgtir said:
I personally would remove all the electrical consumables on the car and inspect them. So start with the plugs and see what condition they are in, clean them up and re gap.

Check the leads for obvious signs of shorting i.e. black staining etc, replace if not done so fairly recently as they are prone to breaking down due to the heat from the engine.

Check the MAF with a known good working one, (this was the problem with mine and had a similar issue although maybe not as developed as yours).

Keep flushing the fuel filter to ensure you aren't just clearing the lines now.

As a matter of course re check the ECU for any fault codes appearing.

Ant.
where is it best to get some new leads from then? are they just a standard type i could get for nissan?
in regards the maf problem, would it not start degrading over time? only reason i ask is that this problem is a step change from one day to another. didn`t appear to degrade gradually.

i`m wondering whether it actually has got a walbro in or whether i have a standard one in and its given up. Is there an easy way of checking? if i do need a new one does anybody know the cheapest place?

just when i thought i`d sorted everything!!
 

antgtir

New Member
I must admit with my MAF it did break down progressively over time, took a while but did get worse as time went on.

If there is someone local to you im sure they wouldn't mind letting you try their MAF, its a tick in the box and you can move on to the next item then.

With regards to the leads i find that the Nissan ones are the best quality, all the other after market ones ive seen look only half the quality of OE.

It may be worth if you dont know how long its been since the last change, to change all ignition parts including dizzy cap and rotor arm again Nissan OE is probably the best.

I presume there is not smoking or loss of any fluids etc? If there is then id be looking at other more serious causes.

Ant.
 

sumo

New Member
plugs dude tri them first and the filter do the easy things firsts the fuel pump sholud sound noise if u got a walbro in or just take it out of the tank
 

olliecast

Active Member
no no fluid leaking and only the slight mist of a rich mixture when booting it. Loose a tiny bit of water but only requires topping up about 5mm level in the bottle every 6 months.
Since i`ve had the car i haven`t changed any of what you mention above.

so tomorrow i`ll order:
leads
dizzy cap
rotor arm

any idea of what it`ll set me back?
i`ll ask around my area for a working maf to try. Feels like something more mechanical though than a sensor if you get me. The juddering makes me think the power isn`t being cut, but something is failing (if you get me)
 

olliecast

Active Member
sumo said:
plugs dude tri them first and the filter do the easy things firsts the fuel pump sholud sound noise if u got a walbro in or just take it out of the tank
when should it sound noisey, when it primes?
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
ok so you tried the filter and no success!
i reckon its your ignition amplifier module starting to break down, had a similar prob the other week then it gave up the ghost altogether and no spark full stop, but prior to that car was badly hesitating.

as everyones suggested, check kv's on ht leads and look at inside of cap for visible signs of wear, but if they are all good then i bet its the module, or possibly a faulty fuel pump.

got all bits in good nick s/h if you wanna save a few squid!
 
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gtirbhp

Guest
as above MAF could be the problem..check the sparks too but i would double check for any sort of vacuum leak as i have had a dodgy tickover due to a missing clamp on one of my intercooler pipes silicon hose.

if your wanting HT leads the standard ones are absolutely sound but this link is for where i and a few others on here got theirs from and they are really good quality

http://www.performanceleads.co.uk/ShowDetails.asp?id=166

Heck the turqoise colour may even add a shade or two to your engine bay ;-) :lol:
 
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olliecast

Active Member
well i`ve got ht leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm coming tomorrow, going to copletely replace them to definately rule them out.
how much are these ignition amplifier modules? are they easy to fit?
 
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