my pulsar driving experiences

[allsmiles]

hi there, ive owned my pulsar for a few days now, and so far all seems good nicely screwed together piece of kit, the only gripes i have about it is the way the thing comes on boost, my previous experience with turbo cars are from r5 gt turbos and the way they come on boost is nothing.......................... then full boost all the way to the redline, the way the pulsar is coming on boost at the minute has left me questioning whether it is behaving correctly, when boost comes in its like u get a little bit then a bit more then full whack, anyways i took it down to weston performance today and the guy there had a go over it and took it for a run and says "its running all right but a bit laggy" and i have booked it in for a session on the rollers next week, anyway he revealed that the boost circuit has been replumbed up differently and mentioned something along the lines of a boost solinoid, dont know for sure but i want the fueling looked at before i go booting it again! anyways great car, glad i bought 1!

my main concerns is the way its coming on boost, is this how they should be? am i being paranoid?

 

[rossdj1983]

is the car standard mate?

 

[paz]

The boost will normally build up as the revs build, so if you're setting off with low revs and then accelerating gently it will feel laggy. In my old car, if I set off and I hadn't launched, but had my foot down the car would seem sluggish (compared to on boost) and then come on boost all at once and throw me back in the seat. That was on standard boost, and from my experience of other pulsars, with more power (and a similarly if not more responsive turbo fitted) the experience just gets more extreme.

paz

 

[mad max]

is the car standard mate?

As rossdj1983 said need more info on your set up

 

[Fast Guy]

My car when 100% standard was abit disappointing, it was too smooth. It just pulled hard from idle to the redline,with no major change in acceleration when on boost, unlike my monty turbo before which had a fair old kick when the boost came in.
You should be seeing boost between 2 and 3K rpm.

I was looking at one of the jap mags today and that had a Gtir in it with a crap power curve. It did nothing until about 5000rpm but held it well to the red line.

 

[cybermorph]

hi 'allsmiles', how much is the dyno session costing you at weston performance? I need my R setup after an engine rebuild and i think they are my nearest place.. and apparently they have a fancy new dyno dont they??

 

[youngsyp]

I agree with Fast Guy. From memory, when my car was standard it would be very smooth and just seemed to pull well right through the rev range.

No, with a decent exhaust system, some other light modifications and a greater understanding of how my AVCR works, I'm 'mapping' the boost curve to try and get full boost (1.1 bar) as soon as possible and hold that to around 7k rpm. The car is very lively at all rpms but, with WOT at around 3-3.5k rpm, you get that 'shunt up the rear' sensation of full boost.

If you still have the original cat in the car, that could have broken down and be hindering spool up or, the spring in your wastegate actuator maybe tired and not holding the wastegate shut ?!

 

[allsmiles]

hello people! sorry i havent got back sooner but my comp is playin up so i am briefly using my bros!

anyways i have since taken my car to weston performance for a session and it revealed a whole lot more about my car, 1st discovery was the boost circuit was wired differently and bypassed some kind of a valve which has now been rerouted and have a bleedvalve installed(just for now lol), the car was running lean at 1 bar boost and even when the boost was reduced to 0.7 bar it was still running lean, it is also running a standard fuel pump also, past rolling road print puts have revealed 309bhp at power engineering at 1bar boost, has a decat, apart from that its standard engine wise

on the rollers the car made 247.8bhp 210ftlbs torque @ 0.7 bar
and the operator has said that the lean fueling is causing a hole in the power and torque curves could well be caused by the fuel pump, fuel pump wiring or the airmass metre

the hesitantcy at low revs have improved somewhat

personally i think its the fuel pump as it looks as though previous owners have ran a bar of boost on the standard fuel pump and from what i heard they aint very good at running that sort of boost

and yes weston were very informative and sessions are around £80 per hour

going to sort myself a fuel pump out and back on the rollers

anyways has anyone got any soothing words of wisdom??:-D

 

[rx jamie]

think you had the 1 bar loop done previous and now he's plumbed the soleniod back in again now, so you will have lower power/boost than when it went on the rollers previous, which is good if you only have a standard pump.

 

[tomble]

Thats the same story i had with my pulsar when i first took it to be dyno'd.

The lean fueling was all down to an old fuel filter on my car... obviously a 15 odd year old fuel pump isn't going to be performing at its best either, so why not change both items while you're at it.


Just my experience...


Tom

 

[youngsyp]

Thats the same story i had with my pulsar when i first took it to be dyno'd.

The lean fueling was all down to an old fuel filter on my car... obviously a 15 odd year old fuel pump isn't going to be performing at its best either, so why not change both items while you're at it.


Just my experience...


Tom

Agree totally with this. Poorly flowing fuel filters can cause all sorts of funny running traits. They're only around £10 from Nissan so, won't break the bank. Replace the hoses to and from it at the same time. You might as well while the fuel is going everywhere. You'll need 8mm i/d fuel hose for this. Again, it should only cost you around £2 a metre so, it's very cheap !

While you're at it, re-wire the fuel pump, so you get full alternator voltage at it. Currently, I'd think you were lucky if it was seeing 12.5 volts. Do a search on info for this, it's a very easy and cheap mod to do, probably cost you under £10 for all the parts !

 

[allsmiles]

Agree totally with this. Poorly flowing fuel filters can cause all sorts of funny running traits. They're only around £10 from Nissan so, won't break the bank. Replace the hoses to and from it at the same time. You might as well while the fuel is going everywhere. You'll need 8mm i/d fuel hose for this. Again, it should only cost you around £2 a metre so, it's very cheap !

While you're at it, re-wire the fuel pump, so you get full alternator voltage at it. Currently, I'd think you were lucky if it was seeing 12.5 volts. Do a search on info for this, it's a very easy and cheap mod to do, probably cost you under £10 for all the parts !

oh and i forgot to say i did have the fuel filter replaced aswell

i have arranged to buy a fuel pump this week and when i have that fitted i will have the wires redun aswell as having a proper boost controller fitted

are air mass meters temperamental on these cars?????

thanks

 

[youngsyp]

are air mass meters temperamental on these cars?????

thanks

Not generally but, as with anything, they can fail. Might be worth giving it a clean with some brake cleaner aerosol. Use this stuff as, you could damage the heated element if you touch it.
Have a search around too as, there is a guide on how to check the MAF for resistance and voltage etc... Re-earthing it might be a good idea too !