setup the gtir ride heights 
:lol: :lol:
Been playing with a few things on the suspension recently and between killing off the tyres with too much toe and sliding around on various corners I've started learning a few things.
For the record, I took of the whiteline bolts at the rear as they kept losing camber and where a pain to setup accuratley. I decided I would setup my rear camber through ride height alone. I realise this will upset the purists but I've got a road/occasional (extremely on recent performance) track car so whatever works.
1. Lowering the car as much as it would go was okay in the dry but it wouldn't bite into corners in the wet at all leading from understeer to snap oversteer. Also in the dry on tighter 2nd gear corners it had a similar problem on turn in.
2. Raised it all up and it handled far better but with the tein topmounts I was stuggling to get any negative camber on the back and the front was at best 0 with the tein set to maximum.
3. My plan was to drop the back more than the front to give the front more roll so more grip and better maintain its geometry. I also wanted to closely monitor ride height so the left and right sides are always balanced.
Try checking your oen and you'll see that ther are over a 1cm difference even when static on the average car.
I plonked 80kg of sand, sink and cement into the passenger seat to represent me (Bring on the puns, I can take it )
4. This plan might have worked but the back was then -ve camber whilst the front was more +ve.
5. I then was lowering the front and raising the back until I could get some -ve camber front and back with a balanced ride height after each setup. After much playing, measuring and lowering, I ended up with the front prctically on the bottom with just over a deg of -ve camber and the back with less. The car ended up with a 315mm gap from wheel centre to body on the front and a 330mm gap at the rear. I wasn't convinced about the ass up nose down stance at this point but thought I'd leave it as at least the camber was closer now.
6. I didn't setup up the camber again as my toe was so far out the left wheel was now turning a corner and I thought the suspension probably needs a good running in so the next job was fix the toe and go for a test drive.
7. Whilst trying to ignore the effect of the toe, the thing I noticed was how darty the front end was going into corners... in the wet! Bearing in mind my tyres were slicks and the other day it wouldn't bite this was a revelation. Also I was running neutral toe so would have expected it to be less darty than the -ve toe previously. Awful understeer was still on the cars as was no braking but overall if felt more balanced through the corner.
8. On further investigation I've found the nose down a55 up is what Nissan had originally designed for our car. they specify 365mm front and 375mm rear. Whiteline fixed springs are 325mm front and 335 rear. It was good to see other people agreed.
These are not my final settings and the ride heights might go up a little front and back if poss to give the suspension geometry a bit more freedom to move. I'm getting my new tyres back tomorrow so then I'll start some more fine tuning but holiday's and work are getting in the way so don't hold your breath for the next installment
Jim
:lol: :lol:Been playing with a few things on the suspension recently and between killing off the tyres with too much toe and sliding around on various corners I've started learning a few things.
For the record, I took of the whiteline bolts at the rear as they kept losing camber and where a pain to setup accuratley. I decided I would setup my rear camber through ride height alone. I realise this will upset the purists but I've got a road/occasional (extremely on recent performance) track car so whatever works.
1. Lowering the car as much as it would go was okay in the dry but it wouldn't bite into corners in the wet at all leading from understeer to snap oversteer. Also in the dry on tighter 2nd gear corners it had a similar problem on turn in.
2. Raised it all up and it handled far better but with the tein topmounts I was stuggling to get any negative camber on the back and the front was at best 0 with the tein set to maximum.
3. My plan was to drop the back more than the front to give the front more roll so more grip and better maintain its geometry. I also wanted to closely monitor ride height so the left and right sides are always balanced.
Try checking your oen and you'll see that ther are over a 1cm difference even when static on the average car.
I plonked 80kg of sand, sink and cement into the passenger seat to represent me (Bring on the puns, I can take it
)4. This plan might have worked but the back was then -ve camber whilst the front was more +ve.
5. I then was lowering the front and raising the back until I could get some -ve camber front and back with a balanced ride height after each setup. After much playing, measuring and lowering, I ended up with the front prctically on the bottom with just over a deg of -ve camber and the back with less. The car ended up with a 315mm gap from wheel centre to body on the front and a 330mm gap at the rear. I wasn't convinced about the ass up nose down stance at this point but thought I'd leave it as at least the camber was closer now.
6. I didn't setup up the camber again as my toe was so far out the left wheel was now turning a corner and I thought the suspension probably needs a good running in so the next job was fix the toe and go for a test drive.
7. Whilst trying to ignore the effect of the toe, the thing I noticed was how darty the front end was going into corners... in the wet! Bearing in mind my tyres were slicks and the other day it wouldn't bite this was a revelation. Also I was running neutral toe so would have expected it to be less darty than the -ve toe previously. Awful understeer was still on the cars as was no braking but overall if felt more balanced through the corner.
8. On further investigation I've found the nose down a55 up is what Nissan had originally designed for our car. they specify 365mm front and 375mm rear. Whiteline fixed springs are 325mm front and 335 rear. It was good to see other people agreed.
These are not my final settings and the ride heights might go up a little front and back if poss to give the suspension geometry a bit more freedom to move. I'm getting my new tyres back tomorrow so then I'll start some more fine tuning but holiday's and work are getting in the way so don't hold your breath for the next installment
Jim
