Power FC / FC Pro

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
I'm having "fun un games" with my car at the moment and am trying to illuminate various components as being faulty, one of the things is the Power FC Pro.

All was fine until I installed a new turbo over last week, once all installed I started the car and the car idled fine.
It was recommended to me that I let the Power FC do it's self learning process again. So I let the car idle for 10 mins then turned on the heated rear window and let it idle for a further 10 mins, then turned off the ignition and restarted it. From that point on the car has idled at such low rpm it almost dies, it really struggles to stay alive.
Funny thing is that when idling at this low rpm it stinks of fuel and produces a lot of black (unburned fuel) smoke from the tail pipe. Now with the symptoms described you would normally say there's a leak in a induction pipe joint somewhere but if this was the case then the car wouldn't drive, and it does, very rich but it drives ok and makes boost.

Anyway still investigating the possible causes but one of the things I was wondering was if you can do a hard reset on the Power FC so all things return to factory settings or is it just a case of installing the default factory map.

Steve
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
You and me both today with PFC issues then :D

There is a reset of one of the menus. I'm between 12V on the car at the moment (long story) otherwise I'd confirm which one.
 

kirko

Member
i believe there is an initialise option not sure where abouts in the menus i will have a look in a bit
 

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
Initialise will reset it...

But you can manually set the idle on the PowerFC PRO... Thats what i did and it was perfect...


Rishi
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Was looking at this again seeing as how you're thinking of changing. I believe the idle control and "self-learn" are similar things in the Nissan ECU and probably for the PFC too. My car stinks of petrol until the lambda sensor warms up after a reset as until the it gets a feedback from the lambda, it will chuck in double the petrol needed quit happily :shock:

here's the clever bit, if your lambda sensor had a problem due to fitting the turbo and then you did a self learn with a dodgy reading it would mess up its idle and continue to mess up its fueling whilst driving.

Food for thought?

For the record, I believe my ECU earths are getting messed up at the moment due to an induced voltage that I haven't tracked down yet. Still cutting the loom and earthing things out. I bet if I changed the loom as we discussed it would make no difference as the current prime suspects are relays and the immobiliser or something else inducing a voltage into the ECU earths.
 
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