yep i totally agree with all the above. When i run mine in this year i ran it at 0.6bar, with a constant variation on revs, NO motorway constant rev driving (as this can cause glazing). Apply heavy throttle to force the rings against the bores to bed the rings in, this creates good compression pressure sealing, and allow lots of engine braking too as this expands the oil control rings meaning they seal well producing a good oil seal. It also creates a suction on the underside of the piston drawing oil onto the cylinder walls aiding cooling and lubrication.
However DO NOT do high speed runs, or race the engine. Drive it normally with lots of variation on the throttle, and a must is letting it warm up properly.
It is said that withing the first 20miles/20mins of driving is supposed to be detrimental to making the engine perform well in the long term. Once the engine is up to running temp, from the lowest it will pull in 4th gear floor it to about 6k revs and let off still in gear allowing the engine only to slow you down, do this about 10 - 15 times. After this 20 miles of initial bedding in has been done, you should do an oil and filter change.
Also only use mineral oil when running in the engine as synthetic oils hav additive in which will stick to the liners and rings not allowing them to wear in together and causes glazing. Not until the engine has done about 2k miles should fully syn oil be used. For the 1st couple of hundred miles use cheap classic car mineral oil. Change the oil, and use mineral oil for another few hundred miles.
This is how ive run all my engines in and none of them have given bad results!
My pulsar engine that has just done 2500k miles was run in like this, drives really well, doesnt have ANY oil in the catch can ever, and has just had a compression test done which resulted in 160-165psi on all 4 cylinders.
Hope that helps?
