somebody to look at my power grahs
- Thread starter GTI_R
- Start date
Mad
Well-Known Member
Here is a similar Car Planet graph with the boost dropping off considerably and the afr reading reducing throughout the rev range ( due to more fuelling).
The boost is dropping considerably (top line) but the afr reading looks pretty reasonable.
Graphs do tend to vary though depending on car, turbo and setup but a rough rule of thumb is that your afr reading will lower as you go up through the rev and power range.
Ed is the best person to speak to on this.
The boost is dropping considerably (top line) but the afr reading looks pretty reasonable.
Graphs do tend to vary though depending on car, turbo and setup but a rough rule of thumb is that your afr reading will lower as you go up through the rev and power range.
Ed is the best person to speak to on this.
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pulsarboby
Guest
leans off way too much for my liking and boost also drops off so theres a prob there too, but in a roundabout sort of way thats kind of done him a favour as he could have melted his pistons by now
i said exactly the same on other forum mark
does that mean we is both extremely intelligent:lol:
well it was setup to run 1.4bar so Pobody your spot on ...
if i'm honest it never ran right after this RR setup (done by DP motorsport owner near runcorn after they closed down)
jim had a look at it 5/6weeks ago and it's much better since then ..
still want to get it on RR only to see what it's doin now that it's breathing better
if i'm honest it never ran right after this RR setup (done by DP motorsport owner near runcorn after they closed down)
jim had a look at it 5/6weeks ago and it's much better since then ..
still want to get it on RR only to see what it's doin now that it's breathing better
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pulsarboby
Guest
im no expert with regard to graphs etc but if you dont nail the living daylights out the car guess itll be fine rob
however i would deffo pay ed a visit to get that sorted but check the obvious issues first as stated
As it turns out no we're not :lol: I was presuming that boost was on the left of the graph and afr on the right when it turns out looking at the graph Dan posting they're the other way round :doh:
Ignore what i said it actually doesn't look too bad and could even go a bit leaner. I thought it was a bit too much power for 0.9 bar :lol:
Rob, unless anything's changed it will be fine. The fuelling on boost is always rich and at times overly rich so it's conservative. Others won't be able to telll from the graph but IIRC the ignition is pulled significantly after 4000rpm so if you're still running 1ish bar then don't sweat it.
I already gave my opinion on the map so will leave it at that. I am sure Ed could fettle that easily for more power if that's what you wanted?
We never really looked at what was causing you boost issues but at the time you said you preferred reliability so we didn't really bother.
Personally I'd first install another lambda sensor to confirm what is happening and spot changes in the future. I prefer AEM for plug and play, other suppliers might be more accurate but are less simple to install and you've already been down that path. There maybe new devices on the market that are a better compromise that others could suggest.
I'd still recommend you put the boost controller into the PFC so everything is close loop controlled in one place. The PFC is not the best boost controller and has limitations but not for what you are trying to do and you will be able to see the boost curve yourself from the hand controller which will aid troubleshooting in the future. It will also ignition cut on overboost which helps with reliability. You already have the solenoid and boost sensor, it might need a little research first but it's not hard. IIRC, the solenoid just plugs into the PFC and the sensor is hard wired to replace the OEM sensor. Enable in the hand controller and sell off your electronics on EBay.
If you want more power, first sort out your boost issue as that might be mechanical or electronic. Then just go back to the standard ignition map at the higher load area.
Looking again at your map, it's difficult to say where they went WOT (Wide Open Throttle) The 3K to 3.5K would be a little lean and more of a concern. They could just have been at part throttle and feeding the throttle in slowly? I think I said that last time which is why we tested on the road to check the knock sensor was quite stable in this range. It's been a while so we'd need more info from a lambda sensor.
All IMO, depends what you want as you could just leave it alone ;-)
I already gave my opinion on the map so will leave it at that. I am sure Ed could fettle that easily for more power if that's what you wanted?
We never really looked at what was causing you boost issues but at the time you said you preferred reliability so we didn't really bother.
Personally I'd first install another lambda sensor to confirm what is happening and spot changes in the future. I prefer AEM for plug and play, other suppliers might be more accurate but are less simple to install and you've already been down that path. There maybe new devices on the market that are a better compromise that others could suggest.
I'd still recommend you put the boost controller into the PFC so everything is close loop controlled in one place. The PFC is not the best boost controller and has limitations but not for what you are trying to do and you will be able to see the boost curve yourself from the hand controller which will aid troubleshooting in the future. It will also ignition cut on overboost which helps with reliability. You already have the solenoid and boost sensor, it might need a little research first but it's not hard. IIRC, the solenoid just plugs into the PFC and the sensor is hard wired to replace the OEM sensor. Enable in the hand controller and sell off your electronics on EBay.
If you want more power, first sort out your boost issue as that might be mechanical or electronic. Then just go back to the standard ignition map at the higher load area.
Looking again at your map, it's difficult to say where they went WOT (Wide Open Throttle) The 3K to 3.5K would be a little lean and more of a concern. They could just have been at part throttle and feeding the throttle in slowly? I think I said that last time which is why we tested on the road to check the knock sensor was quite stable in this range. It's been a while so we'd need more info from a lambda sensor.
All IMO, depends what you want as you could just leave it alone ;-)
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To clear up the lean/rich questions. Multiply lambda by 14.7 to get the Air fuel ratio.
To keep it simple, AFR's for a turbo car at high load,
13.0 (0.88 ) is too lean
12.0 (0.82) is good
11.0 (0.75) is conservative
10.0 (0.68 ) is too rich.
12.5 (0.85) to 11.5 (0.78 ) is a normal range.
To keep it simple, AFR's for a turbo car at high load,
13.0 (0.88 ) is too lean
12.0 (0.82) is good
11.0 (0.75) is conservative
10.0 (0.68 ) is too rich.
12.5 (0.85) to 11.5 (0.78 ) is a normal range.
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pulsarboby
Guest
bollox i thought i was being clever, yes can see what you mean now, like you i was reading it wrong way round:der: