standard Intercooler

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EssexAaron

Member
well ive been doing a few tests and i can say the standard coolers are superb as standard.

ive got 2 ACT gauges rigged in my car and can tell you there is NO NEED for a front mount unless your running massive boost!

and all the bollox on heat soak too, it takes a suprising amount of time for the TOP MOUNT to suffer from heat soak,

for example: a couple of nights ago i did not see temps over 20 degrees at 18psi on full boost, and while cruising was as low as 9.4 degrees!!

im running 18-20psi by the way

also one big thing, the temps are LOWER wen you remove that crome sheild from the edge of the cooler
 
fubar andy

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
EssexAaron said:
also one big thing, the temps are LOWER wen you remove that crome sheild from the edge of the cooler
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That is interesting.

What kind of tests have you done to achieve these figures? "Cruising around" is not specific enough (imo) to confirm what you've said.

Have you any track time while testing, have you compared different speeds and weather factors.

I'd be interested to see more comparisons and figures to merit what you have said and also to gain more credibility to the tmic over than the fmic. Also whether the fmic really has any major advantage with intake temps if boost is non-specific.
 
D

dan-hipgrave

Member
EssexAaron said:
....and all the bollox on heat soak too, it takes a suprising amount of time for the TOP MOUNT to suffer from heat soak,

for example: a couple of nights ago i did not see temps over 20 degrees at 18psi on full boost, and while cruising was as low as 9.4 degrees!!
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I may have the wrong end of the stick here, but this makes it sound like your heatsoak test was while moving under load - did you perform one when stationary with a hot engine, as my old tmic used to suffer really badly after only a few mins stationary...
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
As above, details of the test conditions are needed....

Where did you have the temperature probes ?

How long did you run the car at WOT, running 18 psi of boost ?

How long was the car stationary for, when you conducted the heat soak test ?

I've done a few very basic tests after extensive work on improving my top mount. I've managed to reduce heatsoak by a large degree, using a heat shield under the cold side of the I/C and lagging both end tanks with reflective fibreglass lagging, after polishing each end tank.
After a sustained run at around 1.1 bar, the cold side of the I/C did get warm to the touch.
And it was stone cold to the touch after a cruise, as you'd expect.

I plan to do some proper temperature tests, with a K type thermocouple in the I/C to plenum pipe (actually in the charge flow) so, will be able to give figurative results.

This is interesting work matey so, keep it up.

Paul
 
mattytappy

mattytappy

New Member
It would be good to get some stats up on this as i have played around slapping the old top mount on and without a shodow of a doubt it definatly pulls boost quicker due to the shorter pipe run....but i bought a front mount in preperation of avoiding det and higher intake temps at higher boost levels.

I was thinking of just buying a devils water injection kit and putting it on the hot side of the standard ic run and seeing what that did for the intake temps.

But keep up the good work on swatting up on this lads.
 
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EssexAaron

Member
fubar andy said:
That is interesting.

What kind of tests have you done to achieve these figures? "Cruising around" is not specific enough (imo) to confirm what you've said.

Have you any track time while testing, have you compared different speeds and weather factors.

I'd be interested to see more comparisons and figures to merit what you have said and also to gain more credibility to the tmic over than the fmic. Also whether the fmic really has any major advantage with intake temps if boost is non-specific.
Click to expand...
interesting questions here, thanks for the responce, i can definatly do more test for people that are interested,

the ACT temp gauge is in the plenum to intercooler pipe direct in the charge flow, i also have one next to the air filter, but just as i expected from doing these tests on other cars, the temps of ambient air doesnt change the intake temps, its more important to have good air flow to the cooler.

as i said this aint the first time ive testing ACT of cars, as i think boost/ACT temps are a very important part of a turbo changed car.

the "cruising around" statement was just general driving.

i will be testing this during track time this year as i do quiet abit. as yet i havnt, but have give it a good thrashing.

it will be interesting to test this out in the summer as i know from experience it makes a BIG difference
 
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EssexAaron

Member
youngsyp said:
As above, details of the test conditions are needed....

Where did you have the temperature probes ?

How long did you run the car at WOT, running 18 psi of boost ?

How long was the car stationary for, when you conducted the heat soak test ?

I've done a few very basic tests after extensive work on improving my top mount. I've managed to reduce heatsoak by a large degree, using a heat shield under the cold side of the I/C and lagging both end tanks with reflective fibreglass lagging, after polishing each end tank.
After a sustained run at around 1.1 bar, the cold side of the I/C did get warm to the touch.
And it was stone cold to the touch after a cruise, as you'd expect.

I plan to do some proper temperature tests, with a K type thermocouple in the I/C to plenum pipe (actually in the charge flow) so, will be able to give figurative results.

This is interesting work matey so, keep it up.

Paul
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the ACT probe is on the plenum to intercooler pipe direct in the air charge, WOT was to the limiter in 3rd and 4th. the touch test of the cooler doesnt work as you'd expect,because the charge temps change so quickly. it would be good to see the effects of your mods. also im pretty sure a polished cooler will have a reverse effect which i will test.

if anyone has a standard cooler sitting about that i can try some mods on PM me:-D
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
EssexAaron said:
the touch test of the cooler doesnt work as you'd expect,because the charge temps change so quickly.
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The charge temps will change quickly yes but, the temperature of the metal fins and tubes will take a lot longer to change.
EssexAaron said:
it would be good to see the effects of your mods.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I need to get off my **** and sort that out. :doh:

EssexAaron said:
also im pretty sure a polished cooler will have a reverse effect which i will test.
Click to expand...
Hmm, not likely as the shinier surface will reflect heat better. Of course, this will work better for heat soak than reducing intake temps.
I'd expect coating the end tanks in anything would help with heat soak too. Even if that was silver/white paint. As I said though, mine have both been lagged with heat reflective tape.

I like the idea of binning the I/C cover too. I'll try that and see what happens.

Just for info, I've thought about chopping the bonnet scoop around, to increase the open area so, it'll allow more air to flow through it. I've just got to locate a bonnet scoop at a reasonable price !

And if you haven't already, remove the rubber seal between the scuttle panel and the trailing bottom edge of the bonnet. That helped lower oil temps so, should lower I/C temps too.

Paul
 
gtir_pimp

gtir_pimp

New Member
youngsyp said:
And if you haven't already, remove the rubber seal between the scuttle panel and the trailing bottom edge of the bonnet. That helped lower oil temps so, should lower I/C temps too.

Paul
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is that the small bit of rubber? ive left mine on as it curves round,down onto the IC so i thought it would direct cool air onto the engine more.

what about the big bit of rubber attatched to the bonnet on the inside of the big middle vent? if that comes off that must help cooling too? only thing is i have been told that rain can get through there and onto the electrics whicH isnt good! but ive been ok so far, touch wood!
 
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Animaldaz

Active Member
I think Paul is talking about the weather strip that runs along the scuttle panel (bottom of windscreen),it acts as a seal, so without it more heat can escape.
 
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EssexAaron

Member
youngsyp said:
And if you haven't already, remove the rubber seal between the scuttle panel and the trailing bottom edge of the bonnet. That helped lower oil temps so, should lower I/C temps too.

Paul
Click to expand...
ive already done this, or more "it fell off" :lol:
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
gtir_pimp said:
is that the small bit of rubber? ive left mine on as it curves round,down onto the IC so i thought it would direct cool air onto the engine more.
Click to expand...
Nope, it's the log bit of rubber that goes from one end of the scuttle panel to the other and seals against the underside of the bonnet.

gtir_pimp said:
what about the big bit of rubber attatched to the bonnet on the inside of the big middle vent? if that comes off that must help cooling too?
Click to expand...
I would leave that where it is. That helps guide the air that comes through the bonnet scope, over the I/C core.

Paul
 
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