turbo actuator

[pulsarmad20]

Hi
All

how do i set the turbo actuater/test for faults??

thanks

sam

 

[Braveheart]

Hi
All, how do i set the turbo actuater/test for faults??
thanks, sam

You can use a foot pump to test but be very careful not to put too high a pressure in as you can easily damage the diaphram. The actuator arm should start to move around 0.8 bar or slightly above. Depends on the rating of it. The arm should hold it's position under pressure.
To setup / connect actuator arm (turnbuckle) to wastegate, the arm should be adjusted slightly shorter (half the radius of the circle) and pulled onto wastegate to ensure you have a good wastegate seal off boost.

 

[pulsarmad20]

Hi
Braveheart

I have just tried it and its not pressurizing at all. sounds like its leaking.

but surely i would have no boost and dump valve wouldnt open is this correct?

cheacked the pipes for leaks and there isnt any leaks

what are the problems with a faulty actuator ? ( as my car with not rev past 4.5 -5 thousand revs somtimes a little more but then starts kind off spluttering, poping)

thanks

sam

 

[Dangerous Dave]

Have a look at your intercooler pipes one might need nipping up

 

[pulsarmad20]

Hi

Lawny

Thanks for advise, i have already looked at them, they are all good.

 

[Braveheart]

The actuator should hold pressure and the rod should move outwards. If that's not the case then you are not testing it properly or it's knacked.
Can you hear air leaking out of the actuator body... air will most likely leak out the rod end.
The turbo will try to generate boost pressure but that may then be leaking out the actuator if it knackered.
What is your boost gauge telling you.... does it hold boost and if so, to what level.
There are many things that can cause the car not to fully rev but before you start looking into them, make sure you have a working actuator and it's setup properly.

Once that's sorted and car is still not revving above 4.5K could be:
DET sensor, fuel filter, rotor arm, dizzy cap, HT lead, wrong plugs, crap fuel, MAF bla bla bla... to name but a few!

 

[pulsarmad20]

ok thanks braveheart


hoefully getting another actuator during the week and dizzy cap rotor arm petrol filter and ht leads have been changed this week and i maybe put the wrong plugs in i put bosch f5dpor platin was recomended by local garage alhought it had bcr8es before but i still had the problem before so need to change the actuator then start from there onwards.


thanks

sam

 

[Braveheart]

Sam, looks like you have covered all the obvious.
When you get your new actuator, you may not have to test it but if you do, do not over pressure the actuator or you run the risk of blowing the diaphragm.
If after changing actuator it's still not right, you may want to try doing a fault code check.
http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20463&highlight=fault+code+check
Later,
Scott.

 

[pulsarmad20]

Scott, I have done a fault code cheack a few times now i get the 55 all clear most of the time i only ever had 12 afm up once so i cleaned it with a spray for afm's and it has never came up since?

thanks

sam