UnderSeal

Stevo

New Member
Does this need doing??
mine looks ok underneath but i can see a few brown spots not rust but just the usal colour from water on metal :)

if so is it easy to do and were do i get the stuff from?
 

geetee

Active Member
A lot of people frown on 'underseal' as such - that's the thick black tarry shite. I think it's frowned on cos it needs doing every few years and if not kept up, water gets trapped between the underseal and the metal which actually makes things worse.

Worth Waxoyl'ing the inner wings etc. Trying to Waxoyl the underside of the car is tricky and really needs to be done profesionally with a high pressure setup that atomises the stuff properly.

I don't know what the answer is.

UK spec cars are usually undersealed with some stuff that isn't like normal underseal - i.e. it's far harder and longer lasting. But I presume this is done to the shell in production before all the ancillaries are fitted.

Jap import cars aren't.

Oh to live in a country where they only gritted the roads and not salt them.

Interestingly most Nordic countries don't use salt only grit. Something to do with the temps during winter. Salt is only useful up to about -7 deg C - after which it becomes a menace - vision M11 last year - ice rink. Salt melts the top of the ice - then the temp falls too far and the melted bit freezes anyway - giving u a totally sheet ice effect.

I guess the theory in colder climes is lob lots of grit on top to provide some grip. I know in Southern Germany, most people have 'Winter wheels' for their cars. Basically they are much skinnier with deeper treads. Ppl put them on during the winter months.

Bit of a conundrum really. But you might be better off ensuring your hosepipe is frost free during winter and getting a bargain pressure washer and blasting the underside of your car regularly during the winter.

Anyone know if these Datsun's were galvanised? Or are they made of recycled WWII Banzai planes?

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 

geetee

Active Member
mines been done and god knows how good it is, but its piece of mind
Are you sure it's peace of mind?? Could make things worse if not done properly or it breaks down.

Is urs an import or uk spec?

Cheers
Geetee 8)
 

mattygti-r

New Member
yes its been done, (documents somewhere) its been in the uk for 3yrs so may need doing again, (obviously import)

wont get it done again as im not planning to keep it till it rots away..(there isnt any rot on the car) just mean that i dont think it makes a great deal of difference

the car is always washed twice a week in winter (or at least once) and all the crap under the car hosed off, :wink:
 

geetee

Active Member
nail ... head.. hitting... put them in the right order

I think ur better off keeping the underside of ur car washed down in winter than relying on some waxy stuff that probably isn't going to reach the bits that the salt water will.

p.s. I'm emigrating to Iceland or Los Angeles so I don't care. But then LA won't let the R on the road so I only have one choice...... who cares about 20 hours of darkness in December :?

Odd that the best rally drivers are all from Norway / Iceland / Denmark.... why??? Nothing better to do in the winter months that's why!! :lol:

Haven't they heard of sh@gg1ng? Perhaps it's too dark to find the right place??

I'll shut up now :?

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 

Stevo

New Member
so just dont drive the car in the wet?? LOL

were can i get the wax stuff just for the wheel archers?
 
R

rickymi

Guest
I waxoyled mine myself.. i brought a 5 liter can 20 quid and a parafine
gun for 15.. worked perfect, covered everything underneath and the arches in about half an hour.....left it to dry for 2 hours and gave it another coat the next day...


makes it easyer having a decent ramp and compresor though.. :wink:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
i wax oiled my car, its worth doing yourself :wink:

my arches needed doing (main bit) but i just just sprayed/painted it on everywhere i could ....... it treats the rust to make it better 8)

as rickymi said "makes it easyer having a decent ramp and compresor though.. "
 
O

Odin

Guest
I'm in the middle of doing this at the moment, I'v removed the rear axle
/front struts petrol tank and brake and fuel lines and propshaft :shock: , I then ground out any rust I found (surface rust only) then I'v rust treated it with some stuff I got from a classic car mag :idea:, Then painted it with rust primer and then black smoothrite and 2 coates of waxoil :D (a bit messy :cry: ).

The car looks mint underneath now 8) .

I'm stripping all the susp and painting it, Also I'm replaceing anything that
can wear ie rubber bushes (with poly replacements) anti-roll bars front and rear (with whiteline replacements) roll bar links (new nissan replacement's) prop centre bearing's (new nissan replacement's) balljoint's ( nismo replacement's) plus most of the nut/bolts and screws.

Also I'v fitted the whiteline anti-dive and rear axle lock and line kit's.

All rubber hose's will be replaced too before I put the engine back in :wink: .

My Quaife gearbox and trans box have also been rebuilt.

New nismo engine mounts.

One new brack line front to back. :cry:

Gearbox linkage bushes with one of Ivans bush kits.

stearing rack bushes (thanks to ashills) 8) .


Rob
 
T

Toady

Guest
i did mine the other week, it is worth doing, and if you use the decent expensive stuff you wont need to re-do it every few years, and shit wont get in where its not wanted if you do the job right! :wink: i did mine when it was up in the air on my ramp at work, removed the arch liners and used proper expensive volvo underseal, used it liberally and im no longer worrying bout the dreaded tin worm! 8)
 
O

Odin

Guest
Volvo stuff should be 5hit hot mate 8) :wink: .

I only have one job to do uderneath now and that is to waxoil
the inside the box section's :cry: I'v been putting that one off as
it's going to be very very messy :( .


rob
 
A

AZ STE

Guest
Ive had mine done twice now with clear finnigans waxoil . You just need to make sure you get a dry spell to let it dry off a bit.
By the way the person who did the job for me charges £40 and its a proper good job if you live in the Buxton/Manchester area PM me for the address if you want it doing. :wink:
 

geetee

Active Member
Volvo stuff should be 5hit hot mate
Why should it?

Another Nordic country that doesn't use salt on it's roads.

May be expensive if you were to pay for it - doesn't mean it's best suited to British roads though!

Personally, I'm going to strip the R back to the shell, remove the paint then anodise it in copper and platinum baths. The it'll last for ever.

Should only cost me £50K trade.

Kewl or what :lol:

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
O

Odin

Guest
Get real mate :roll: Have you ever seen a really rusty volvo or saab :?:, I'v owned both 2 volvo's and 4 saabs one being a 99 turbo 8) the first
real production turbo car and that had no rust what so ever and it was a
1981 car :D .


rob
 
T

Toady

Guest
trust me, when it still costs us (trade) 20 quid for a ltr, its better than the normal stuff you can buy down your local auto shop! :roll: and as v-pulsar said.....do you see many rusy volvo's from the 80's and more? the guys in our bodyshop know their stuff...after all theyve been doin it most of their lives, so when they tell me its s4it hot, i know it is! :wink:

and 50k, well....i am thinking you are taking the piece yar?
 
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