few little probs please help

[mark gtir]

ok just wondeing the factory boost guage is boosting off the scale while the after market one seems to go to ten but when i accelerate goes back to 0 seems weird to me . what do the vacume pipes off an after market boost guage hook up to ? also my temp guage and petrol level are not woring any ideas what this could be. finally can see my o2 sensor is knackered would driving like this mess up my engine and does anyone know where i'd get one and would a sylvia one fit ? thanks very much for the help as i don't know a huge amount about these cars:shock:

 

[John]

ok just wondeing the factory boost guage is boosting off the scale while the after market one seems to go to ten but when i accelerate goes back to 0 seems weird to me .

10 whats, im assuming you mean 10 psi as that would be circa factory boost. Your boost gauge will return to 0 or a negative value after letting of the accelerator so it seems your after market gauge is faulty or is not calibrating itself correctly from what your saying.

 

[PobodY]

ok just wondeing the factory boost guage is boosting off the scale while the after market one seems to go to ten

I agree with John - I don't think your after market gauge is calibrated... or at the least not reading the same boost source.

but when i accelerate goes back to 0 seems weird to me .

Do you mean you're hard on the throttle and it just goes back to 0? That doesn't sound like it's reading boost at all... it is normal to read 0 when not accelerating though.

what do the vacume pipes off an after market boost guage hook up to ?

Mine is T-d into the same line as the factory gauge... which I think is also attached to the BOV and the boost sensor on my EVC - cunningly done so that they'd all read from the same source and be co-ordinated.

You can just about make it out in this picture: The yellowy T is connected to the after makrket gauge and the EVC; the black T is connected to the BOV and the factory sensor;

also my temp guage and petrol level are not woring any ideas what this could be.

Hmmm - could it be a loose connection behind the clocks? I can't remember if they are the same plug, but it wouldn't surprise me if they are.

finally can see my o2 sensor is knackered would driving like this mess up my engine and does anyone know where i'd get one and would a sylvia one fit ? thanks very much for the help as i don't know a huge amount about these cars:shock:

Are you running a standard ECU and map? I don't think it really likes not having an O2 reading and will likely over-fuel as a result. If you're not, you might be able to ignore it as not all the ECUs or maps take notice of what the lamda sensor is telling them (once the map is complete - obviously it's hard to set the A/F ratio without an lamda sensor).
I don't know about the sensor from a Silvia, but I would just google lambda sensor nissan pulsar (or Sunny if you'd prefer). My search gave me "lambdasensor.co.uk" and "lambdapower.co.uk" both of which have a 3-wire 60-type connection sensor listed for the SR20DE at ~£86. - You can probably find cheaper if you search a little more than me... and more if you just go to Nissan and ask for one.

 

[mark gtir]

Thanks for all the help has given me some ideas. i'll post up a video of the boost guage this weekend when i'm home. there are 2 t pieced pieces of blue tubing coming off mine one i have hooked to the side of the bov ine is hooked onto a gold coloured circular thing by the turbo. Is the std guage ment to go to the end of the dial when boosting that seems to be working ok but just wondering is this high alright. Just had the engine rebuilt you see but by a traditional mechanic who wasn't into boost guages and things more the nuts and bolts, the car is going well if a small bit smokey whenm cold but i'm still within the first 100 miles and don't want to drive it hard. the temp guage just doesn't seem to work and the fan wasn't coming on so he just hooked up a relay so the fan is perminantely on would like to get this guage right and fan so i don't over heat it just to see anyway any ideas on this would be great !

 

[mark gtir]

oh yeah have 3 ecu's one says jam sport on it never herd of them, the other ones are is standard i think the one in it i'd say is boggo std anyway well its running alright so won't complain just wondering if the sealed jam sport one would be better!

 

[PobodY]

Thanks for all the help has given me some ideas. i'll post up a video of the boost guage this weekend when i'm home. there are 2 t pieced pieces of blue tubing coming off mine one i have hooked to the side of the bov ine is hooked onto a gold coloured circular thing by the turbo.

That would be the wastegate actuator.
You can just about see the hose going to it in my picture from the boost solenoid. - That's kept separate from my boost gauge though, because it takes it's source off the side of the intake plenum.

Is the std guage ment to go to the end of the dial when boosting that seems to be working ok but just wondering is this high alright.

The standard gauhge should top-out at about 0.7 bar. (0.5 from the wastegate spring, and 0.2 from the solenoid) - If you're going off the top, you're running higher than standard boost.

Just had the engine rebuilt you see but by a traditional mechanic who wasn't into boost guages and things more the nuts and bolts, the car is going well if a small bit smokey whenm cold but i'm still within the first 100 miles and don't want to drive it hard. the temp guage just doesn't seem to work and the fan wasn't coming on so he just hooked up a relay so the fan is perminantely on would like to get this guage right and fan so i don't over heat it just to see anyway any ideas on this would be great !

My guess would be that the engine temperature sensor hasn't been connected (or not quite tightly enough).
Do you also have a high idle, could be that the ECU always thinks the engine is cold.
There's probably a diagnostic procedure for this in the service manual.

 

[mark gtir]

This is a seriouslu helpfull forum!!! Thanks pobody. Yeah idle is about 1400-1500 accroding to the avcr which matches the guage so that seems accurate where is the temp sensor located will have a look at it and see if its loose

 

[mark gtir]

this is the engine here she wasn't fully done at this stage will get a more up to date pic but the only diff is the oil seperator is now hooked on and little bits and pieces

 

[pulsarboby]

ecu temp sensor is located at underside of plenum (just under the clutch master cylinder) it is a 2 pin connector not the single spade as that one goes directly to the temp gauge.

high idle can be caused by a few things such as faulty idle speed control valve, air leak (split vacuum pipes) very common, faulty ecu temp sensor, sticky cold start device or incorrectly adjusted butterflys on throttle bodies.
as previously stated check all vacuum connections first and try adjusting throttle idle speed screw, if that doesnt work then carry out a diagnostics check to see if any faults appear.

 

[warringtonjack]

Bob, any chance of a pic of the ecu temp sensor? Since I put my engine back in, I havent registered any water temp. And when I think of it, I dont remember putting a plug like you describe back on. :doh:

 

[pulsarboby]

that wont be the ecu temp sensor then but the one next to it which is a single spade connection.
if you can find a photo of the back of an engine il point its location out for you mike!

if the ecu one isnt plugged in then the reading on your pfc commander (seem to remember you running a pfc on your motor)will be 0 as it takes the reading direct from ecu as opposed to temp gauge sender

 

[mark gtir]

Thanks again will try all the above this weekend and post up what happens. Could you tell me do you need a special tool to wind back the pistons on the back calipers or could you use anything else!