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Craig04
Guest
I went with a Helix paddle mate. its rated to 380 ftlb pedal feels really nice too which is a bonus.
I assume you've tried a quality oil in the gearbox and you've tried adjusting the pedal (biting point) height
if you have then I would say it's a worn clutch fork as you only have 2.5" travel in the pedal
if you have then I would say it's a worn clutch fork as you only have 2.5" travel in the pedal
I have the same problem too when i first start the car the biting point is right on the floor but if i pump the peddle a few times its at the top and works with no probs at all but after a 5 min or so without changing gear the biting point is on the floor again. i guess this would be the cluch fork aswell?.
No, that sounds like a hydrolics problem somewhere. I'd be checking your clutch fluid and or your clutch slave or master cylinder.
ok cool that does'nt sound too bad cheers.
R
riske
Guest
Paz it wouldnt be leaking in the passenger footwell if the slave went would it? If the master went it would be in the drivers footwell. ALso i have tried adjusting the biting point Steve and still no better. Think it must be the fork.
Kirko, when you say you put in the spacers where are you talking about?
I thought about increasing the slave rod that pushes the clutch fork but if you actually look the fork hits the side of the gearbox so it wouldnt work.
What about a crowbar down in the gap and trying to bend the fork back to normal. that could work surely? That is obviously a quick part time fix until i get it to Bobby.
Kirko, when you say you put in the spacers where are you talking about?
I thought about increasing the slave rod that pushes the clutch fork but if you actually look the fork hits the side of the gearbox so it wouldnt work.
What about a crowbar down in the gap and trying to bend the fork back to normal. that could work surely? That is obviously a quick part time fix until i get it to Bobby.
I dought very much you'll bend it with a crow bar, it's some sort of high carbon steel that's quite brittle and if you try and bend it, it might break. Where the fork pivots on the ball inside the bell housing is where over time the pivot point of the fork becomes weak and the ball ends up being forced through the fork material, this weakens the fork and in bad case's the fork bends as well but just the pivot ball going through the fork lowers the pivot point of the fork and makes it dificult to engage gear. A reinforced fork will have a steel patch welded over the fork's pivot point.
The fork pivots on the ball inside the bell housing, if you can imagine the ball is a bit like a dome ended M12 bolt, the domed end being the pivot ball and the bolt end screws into a mounting point inside the bell housing. Dave means to put a washer between the bolt and the bell housing mount, thus raising the pivot point of the fork, creating a similar effect to extending the rod in the slave.
So unless your going to have the box out at home I'd just wait until you get to Bob.
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R
riske
Guest
Cool cheers Steve. I'll leave it then...
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pulsarboby
Guest
yes dont try bending nothing with a crowbar, not a good idea:doh:
the only thing you can do in the meantime is to take the pushrod out of the slave cylinder and find a bolt around 1/4'' longer than the pushrod and grind off the head into a dome then fit that in place of the pushrod.
this will give you more leverage, but if the clutch release fork has already started to split then all you qwill do is cause it to split further still by putting extra leverage on it so its a gamble that may pay off temporarily or it may finish the fork off altogether.
the only thing you can do in the meantime is to take the pushrod out of the slave cylinder and find a bolt around 1/4'' longer than the pushrod and grind off the head into a dome then fit that in place of the pushrod.
this will give you more leverage, but if the clutch release fork has already started to split then all you qwill do is cause it to split further still by putting extra leverage on it so its a gamble that may pay off temporarily or it may finish the fork off altogether.
noriek2003
New Member
you dont need to take the slave apart, just stick a nut between the rod and the fork, does the same job
R
riske
Guest
I dont think i'm going to do anything with it because the fork already hits the side of the gearbox, its already started to make grooves in the casing. Bobby here i come!
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ptandy
Guest
gear box making a whining noise
gear box has started making a whining noise but when i put my foot down on the clutch it goes away it also whines when its in neutral when i pump the clutch a few times it seems to go away until i press the clutch again then the noise comes back it also makes a slight whining noise in 1st and 2nd gear i have been told its the clutch relese bearing just wondering what you lot on here think is it the gear box or what any help would be appreciated thanks
gear box has started making a whining noise but when i put my foot down on the clutch it goes away it also whines when its in neutral when i pump the clutch a few times it seems to go away until i press the clutch again then the noise comes back it also makes a slight whining noise in 1st and 2nd gear i have been told its the clutch relese bearing just wondering what you lot on here think is it the gear box or what any help would be appreciated thanks
red reading
Active Member
gearbox input shaft bearing,i'll lay bets on it
