Help with my bloody bumpsteer kit

olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
hi all,
fitted my bumpsteer kit front a forum member, and though that the taper lead into the hub to far.

Indeed it did and wouldn`t allow the end to move when tightened up or allow enough movement for ful lock. Pic below:




Now i got in the kit the following top hat washers (4 off) and 4 of these curved nuts. They only fit on the bottom on the bumpsteer kit shaft so didn`t know what they were for:



I took off the arm end and found that if i put the top hat washer on, it gave the tie rod end further adjustment, much like the picture of fast guys on this forum. The thing that concerns me here is the amount of location the tie rod end has left to locate on.



then with tie rod fitted:



Should i have a lock nut to secure the tie rod end into the sleeve here too?



So what do you think?

Have any other of you experience the taper of the pin fitting too far into the hub?

Also, do you think i`ll be ok with my current setup with the top hat washer causing the reduced location face?

Cheers in advance,
ollie
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
All I can say is that it looks like it's machined different to mine. Mine never had the top hats, it was just machined wider there so that the rose joint sat on top of it and wouldn't go any lower.
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
il have a look at mine and take a photo for you tomorrow ollie as im pulling engine out again.
i dont know answer to your question as i cant remember wtf the things look like, but at least youll have something to compare it with!
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
yeah that`d be real good thanks matey.

I think for some reason the cone hasn`t been made quite long enough on the pin. So the radius that should support the track rod end is just below the line of the hub instead of above. Hence using the washer.

Checked for play though and all seems good.

Be very helpful for some pics though bob.

Cheers,
ollie
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
il get you some tomorrow ollie whilst im ripping the lump out, if you can then send me a text around 11-12 just to remind me;-)
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
yeah think my brain should now go to the scrap yard its fading rapidly:lol::lol:
 
Mr GTiR

Mr GTiR

New Member
Just had a look at it now and I would persoanally bin the "collars" off and fit it without.

I'm sure my old kit did not have any "collars" on. And the pins that you have came off my old bumpsteer kit so I know they are correct. iirc the only things different are the "collars".

Also, don't forget to fit the boots over the Rose Joints once you have worked it out.
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
hi all, cheers for the responses,

This is a picture of the pin inside of the hub to clarify.



The taper fits perfect inside the hub, but then the track rod arm then sits so low that it rubs on the hub when the wheels are turned. You can see the marks on the above picture.

Fitting without the collar also sits it lower than the standard track rod arm, which defeats the object of the kit??

Now, so long as the major diameter of the threaded section is not drastically smaller that the location part for the track rod arm bearing, than what harm cant the spacer have (i have added this spacer) other than lift the track rod arm as per fast guys kit (the taper on his holds the rod arm higher).

Opinions?

Cheers in advance,
ollie
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
just looked at the pics again and the thing that you maybe forgetting ollie is that the idea of these is to actually lower the steering arm angle.
this gives a more positive feel to steering and makes it more precise the lower the track arm sits at the hub.
it will also make the steering heavier than usual as your effectively pushing downward as well as from side to side.

by fitting that big spacer you have defeated the idea of the above, by all means fit one if its bottoming out on the hub (which it shouldnt) but keep as much angle as you can on the track arms.
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
I can see what you mean now mate. If I want the kit to work properly, I should
Get the steering arm to sit as close to the hub as possible without catching.
I think I'll turn down the washer now until its as close as it can be without binding.

That's why the sr20 boys sometimes mount the track rod end underneath
The hub when they've lowered there car extreameley.

This seem logical?
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
olliecast said:
I can see what you mean now mate. If I want the kit to work properly, I should
Get the steering arm to sit as close to the hub as possible without catching.
I think I'll turn down the washer now until its as close as it can be without binding.

That's why the sr20 boys sometimes mount the track rod end underneath
The hub when they've lowered there car extreameley.

This seem logical?
Click to expand...

:doh::doh: and you build planes :thumbsup:

I told you weeks ago that the whole reason for these kits was to overcome the exaggerated bumpsteer caused by lowering the cars suspension. The steering rack is attached to the car and so by lowering the car you raise the angle steering arm, this change, amoungst other things this causes increased bump steer. So the point of the kit is to drop the angle of the steering arm to somewhere near it's original position. This is why it's generally advised not to lower the car much more than 35 - 40mm

you'll find that those top hat thingies are an option and certainly wern't included in the original kit. Uncle dave being extra helpful with the fitting instructions then ?
 
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