engine rebuild
- Thread starter tony1981
- Start date
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pulsarboby
Guest
we do standard rebuilds for £1200, forged work out from around £1800 upwards dependant upon spec required.
but theres quite a wait as weve currently got 4 on the go at the mo.
but if its just a noisy topend you have then get it shimmed up!!! no need for a rebuild unless the things knocking from bottom end or has low compression and kicking out smoke.
but theres quite a wait as weve currently got 4 on the go at the mo.
but if its just a noisy topend you have then get it shimmed up!!! no need for a rebuild unless the things knocking from bottom end or has low compression and kicking out smoke.
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pulsarboby
Guest
ask fubar andy on here think hes only up the road from you, or bring it to the oc trackday at oulton park on 27th and il tell you there and then and explain how to shim it should it be that thats the prob.
but on what youve said the compression is good!
but on what youve said the compression is good!
Drop me a PM if you want to meet before the trackday :thumb:
keastygtir
Well-Known Member
whats included with the standard rebuild Bob?
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pulsarboby
Guest
new oe rings
cylinders checked / honed
acl mains,bigend bearings
acl thrust washers
oe oil pump rotor kit
new front and rear main oil seals
oe head gasket
valves lapped and new stem seals
head skimmed (if needed) and shimmed
block face checked for distortion
crank checked
painted block & rocker cover
3 month warranty
darkyGTI-R
New Member
With these rebuilds if I say bought the parts I wanted you to put in say hks head gasket and such like would you still take on the rebuild or would it invalidate the 3 month warranty because you were using my after market parts?
I popped up and had a look on Saturday
So….oil pressure takes too long to come up!
Once the car starts (cold) in takes just over 4 seconds for the gauge to read any pressure. It does come up to the "4" mark (just) and the drop back down “3” mark. Once warm and some revs are applied the needle hardly moves at all (its not consistent to what would happen when you do rev the engine and the needle changes to suit).
Turned off engine for a minute and then turned it back on again; it takes just over 4 seconds again for the gauge to read but will not make the "4 number" pressure point on the gauge only “3”.
There is a little tapping noise from the engine and when a few revs are applied you can still hear it. I’m not 100% as it’s still quite quiet but it’s not a good noise. :sad:
So….oil pressure takes too long to come up!
Once the car starts (cold) in takes just over 4 seconds for the gauge to read any pressure. It does come up to the "4" mark (just) and the drop back down “3” mark. Once warm and some revs are applied the needle hardly moves at all (its not consistent to what would happen when you do rev the engine and the needle changes to suit).
Turned off engine for a minute and then turned it back on again; it takes just over 4 seconds again for the gauge to read but will not make the "4 number" pressure point on the gauge only “3”.
There is a little tapping noise from the engine and when a few revs are applied you can still hear it. I’m not 100% as it’s still quite quiet but it’s not a good noise. :sad:
North Lancashire :thumb:
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pulsarboby
Guest
your more than welcome to use your own parts (were currently doing one for russ (empty pockets, whos supplying his own parts), the warranty will still stand unless the parts are s/h then i would not give warranty!
andy / tony....how long does it take for the oil light to go out?
from what ive heard tony it sounds like you need more than an oil pressure sender, sounds as though knock could be bigend in which case its days are very numbered!
if you can bring the car down to the op trackday and drive it slowly off boost (and that does mean off boost lol) il have a listen to it there if you like
just one thing though, have you or anyone checked the sump to see if its dented? this will cause a massive problem especially from cold as the oil will be thick and the pickup will be restricted.
Once the engine is running there is no oil light and there is plenty of oil in the engine, although it does need changing.
Tony is also going to speak to someone who also owned a GTiR near him, (someone before my time) that knows his stuff also and get another opinion.
Apart from that it might be worth a trip to OP, but I'm worried about causing more damage to the engine with driving it...
Happy days mate will maby have to get a drive round the lakes or yorkshire dales sorted im on the coast carlisle direction,
but back on topic
I wouldnt drive the car atall if it were me, does sound like big ends to me or a damaged pan causing the oil pickup to struggle
Check the oil pan isnt dented as bob said i think even the tinnyst alteration to it can hinder the pick up, if its dented wip it of and wack it flat with a hammer lol, stick some black sealnt goo on it and put it back on,
Failing that, pull the motor out and wip the sump off and be prepared to cry.....
Keep it local, a trip via Grizedale Forest and over Wrynose Pass ;-)