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pulsarboby

Guest
yeah thats what i suggested a little earlier but evidentally it was ok before turbo probs!

but as said it does have all the symptoms of the engine timing being out




just to note, this would also cause it to run very lean (especially coming onto boost) as the inlet and ex valves will be opening at the wrong time so you wont get sufficient fuel into the cylinders
 
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Thanks for filling in for me Chris, Just got back and eaten tea! Guess we will be speaking again tommorrow :lol::thumbsup:

Thanks again Bob and everyone else for yet again more advice, and trust me Bob, if you were closer you would have had the car to fix about two month since :lol:

The car has only ever boosted to 1.2 bar and then dropped off to 1 bar, it now boosts to and stays just below 1 bar. Therefore the timing could be the big problem, the reason I took it to the racing line was for them to check these things and set it up so I would have hoped it had been checked but I never asked when I picked it up so wouldn't know either way for definate!

Tonight I swapped the AFM and ECU to make no difference, I diconnected the lambda sensor to make no difference :doh: Checked yet again for boost leaks, no leaks.

The fuel regulator has a vaccuum pipe going to it, should this suck instead of blowing? and if I disconnect this what difference should this make?? I know I was told the fuel pressure was checked and was said to be fine throughout the rev range but was struggling for ideas so an answer to that question would also be good! :-D

I don't have a timing gun at work, don't know off the top of my head who has either, I'm sure thats not going to help me out :doh: I'll have to dig a little further I think!

Thanks again :thumbsup:
 

noriek2003

New Member
the fuel reg is a rising rate regulator so it increases fuel pressure as boost increases, you dont want to disconnect that line as you wont be getting enough fuel to the injectors when its on boost
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
get some typex and mark the second notch from the left on crank pulley (so i can see it) bring the car to op on tuesday and il bring my timing gun and will tell you in 5 minutes whether the engine/cam timing is out as i wont be able to get the 20 degrees on the gun without spinning the distributor round off the slotted holes.

if it is then its not a five minute job to sort out and youll just have to run car with what it has at the moment and sort it when you get home.
but tbh if its chucking it down with rain, believe me....you dont want loads of boost, it will only send you careering off the track lol
 
I disconnected that, blanked it off and took it out last night, and it made no difference at all to how it ran/boosted! :roll: Guessing thats not quite right then! :doh:
the fuel reg is a rising rate regulator so it increases fuel pressure as boost increases, you dont want to disconnect that line as you wont be getting enough fuel to the injectors when its on boost
 
We have a timing gun at work:thumbsup: so going to give it a go now, Once I've checked it I'll report back! :-D
Thanks mate, still might need you there to check too, we'll find out shortly! :-D
And lol, would be good if the slowest car keeps up with you big boys because you can't get the power down! :lol:
get some typex and mark the second notch from the left on crank pulley (so i can see it) bring the car to op on tuesday and il bring my timing gun and will tell you in 5 minutes whether the engine/cam timing is out as i wont be able to get the 20 degrees on the gun without spinning the distributor round off the slotted holes.

if it is then its not a five minute job to sort out and youll just have to run car with what it has at the moment and sort it when you get home.
but tbh if its chucking it down with rain, believe me....you dont want loads of boost, it will only send you careering off the track lol
 
Timing was set at 14 degrees, not right so we have now set it to 20 degrees, it's better and pulls better through the rev range but still not quite right!
 
Anyone know exactly what the fuel pressure should read on a manual gauge??
And what difference it should have made to the running of my R when I disconnected and blanked of the vacuum pipe to the fuel regulator?
Thanks
 
At idle with the pipe disconnected the pressure should be 3 bar/45psi.
Thanks, do you know if or what pressure it should change to when it is revved up to say, 3, 4 and 5k or is not that simple?
I'm guessing the pressure should increase but I have no idea what to!
 

ChrisS

New Member
When the inlet systems presurised up how much if any air noise would you expect to hear from it passing by open valves ect and out?

Im convinced that there is an air leak somewhere, from inside the car you can hear an air type noise as it boosts which is different from what noise an induction kit would make. You can also hear this noise from outside, and sounds almost screemer pipeish. Would also make sense as to why the boost pressure wont go above 0.9 bar regardless of what changes are made.
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
block off the elbow that goes onto the plenum so when testing for leaks air wont go past valves etc. then the pressure should hold and not escape. pressurise it 20psi/1.3bar and you will definately be able to hear if airs escaping/leaking. a can of wd40 fits nicely into the elbow to block it off!! use an air compressor if possible rather than a bike pump!
 
block off the elbow that goes onto the plenum so when testing for leaks air wont go past valves etc. then the pressure should hold and not escape. pressurise it 20psi/1.3bar and you will definately be able to hear if airs escaping/leaking. a can of wd40 fits nicely into the elbow to block it off!! use an air compressor if possible rather than a bike pump!
No leaks on that side mate! 8)
Something wrong somewhere though!
 

noriek2003

New Member
mightydquinn said:
Thanks, do you know if or what pressure it should change to when it is revved up to say, 3, 4 and 5k or is not that simple?
I'm guessing the pressure should increase but I have no idea what to!
it doesn't work like that, it increases with the boost pressure, normally its 1:1 unless you have a crappy whats its name reg (fse power bost valve thingy me bob)
 
it doesn't work like that, it increases with the boost pressure, normally its 1:1 unless you have a crappy whats its name reg (fse power bost valve thingy me bob)
OH yeah, one of those thingy's!!! :lol::lol:
Well it's supposed to be correct anyway, and couldn't get hold of a tester today so can't really do much with it:doh:
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
as said chris, bring the car with you and il take 15 minutes out and take a look at it for you.
i wouldnt worry about the lack of power though.

when my actuator bracket snapped at cadwell just over a week ago i was running no boost but car was still whooping everything, sometimes power is a real hinderance (especially in the wet with leaves on track lol), im sure youll still have a good day with the boost and power you have!
hopefully with a little luck i may spot the problem then you can sort it when you get back home assuming i cant do it there for you:)
 
as said chris, bring the car with you and il take 15 minutes out and take a look at it for you.
i wouldnt worry about the lack of power though.

when my actuator bracket snapped at cadwell just over a week ago i was running no boost but car was still whooping everything, sometimes power is a real hinderance (especially in the wet with leaves on track lol), im sure youll still have a good day with the boost and power you have!
hopefully with a little luck i may spot the problem then you can sort it when you get back home assuming i cant do it there for you:)
Thats very good of you mate, would be good if you can just fix it in no time with the limited tools that will be available! (and make me feel daft, lol!) getting the camber set up on the front on monday seen as the bolts arrived! Don't suppose you know the best/correct setting? I guess i better pray for rain so the power won't matter! The only thing i'm really worried about is blowing it up, don't like the fact its underfuelling so badly!
 
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