Car won't start, whining noise from fuel rail (maybe not related)

V

vizi0n

New Member
Hi all!

I was in the process of finishing repairing the R I've bought last month. Since I've bought it, it does this strange "whining" sound from the fuel pump (walbro 255, not even a year old) and from the fuel rail/fpr too when I put the key to the On position.

The problem is: yesterday I went to the garage, fill up the coolant, started the car fine (still did that whining noise when I turned the key to on, but it stops as soon as I crank), ran the car for about 10 minutes on idle so the coolant can be bled and all. Now I go back today, try to start the engine but it seems like its stuttering and will not start, just one explosion once in a while.

It is very strange, but I do have fuel because the spark plugs get wet after a few tries to start it up, compression is good across all four, plugs are brand new.

Any idea?

Does a bad FPR cause some noise? Or anything else?
 
gtir_pimp

gtir_pimp

New Member
i think its just the fuel pump but it sounds like its the fuel rail. when i turn the key and the pump primes when im sitting in the car it sounds like its coming from in front of me under the bonnet aswell as from behind. even when under the bonnet and someone else turns the key the priming noise is loud and sounds like its coming from the engine.

i think the car not starting might be something else
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
The car started today after a few tries.

Here's what I noticed:

- When cold: turn the key to "ON" and while the pump is priming the fuel delivery system it does a BIG whining noise (kinda like "scooooouweeee") at the pump and fuel rail
- Try cranking and the engine makes an explosion once in a while but does not start
- Crank some more, engine tries to start and die after 2-3 explosions (its been about 6-7 tries now)
- Crank... oh it starts and idle good at 1500rpm (cold)
- Go for a ride for about 5-10 minutes so the engine warms up, then shut it off
- Turn the key to "ON" and I can hear the regular pump priming sound (some kind of buzzing sound) but no sound at the fuel rail (like how it's supposed to be)
- Turn the key to "START" and the engine fires right up.

What the hell is going on?
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
splmum said:
Just as a curiosity, have you checked the fuel pressure, sounds possibly like a fuel pressure regulator may be playing up and sometimes faulty.
Click to expand...
I've got 2 spares, I might try swapping it tomorrow if its not too cold outside as P1 my other Pulsar is in the garage
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
Still haven't checked the FPR, but I did check for a CEL code, and it returns a clean 55. I've tought it could've been the distributor but seems like its not the case.

One thing I did today though is remove the distributor from the engine, removed wire from the coil to the distributor, turn the key on and rotate the shaft inside the distributor. Sometimes the coil would do a big pop with a spark to itself, sometimes a much lighter pop sound, with barely no spark. I could also hear the fuel pressure change and an injector click each time I've turned the distributor shaft 1/4 turn.

Could the coil be faulty and working well once the engine runs?
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
Well its definately not the coil, ignition amp or distributor. I've changed all 3 for known good one and still have the same issue...
 
vss irvine

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
why are you changing electrical items when your getting fuel problems?

start by changing the fpr and the filter, then if no better, change the pump

new pumps do still fail
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
Well if there was a fuel problem, why would there be fuel sometimes? I mean, the pump works and there is fuel between the filter and the rail. Also, the filter is less than 1 year old. I still have to change the FPR but I tried the less messy stuff first. I kinda hate playing with fuel.
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
I've finally got my hands petrol dirty and changed the FPR on the rail this pm. No more strange noise from the fuel rail (but its also less cold outside, about -5 celcius now) and the car started right away. I did try a few times before swapping the FPR so it might not be it but I will try to start the car again tonight when its colder and the engine had time to cool down completely.

If it starts up again, well that was the issue, if its still buggin well then... pump or whatever else, but I can hear the fuel coming to the rail when someone turns the key to on (with the "new" fpr).
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
Hey just a question guys, I've played with my timing today, and for some reason I have to turn the distributor all the way to the front to get to the 20 degrees mark. On my other Pulsar its about in the middle to get to 20 degrees.

The engine is hot, TPS disconnected, revved 3 times to 3000rpm, checked timing --all 6 marks were way at the back of the engine, turn the distributor to the front at the maximum and I get to the 20 degrees mark. At some point the engine changed its rpm by itself, now I could put the distributor to the middle to get to 20 degrees. Why does it change rpm by itself all of a sudden?

Frank
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
Hi all,

I'm bringing this back to life as my car ran fine since last march, but this week its having the same trouble as it had last winter. The engine cranks but does not start.

Some development: I have to give it some (partial) throttle a few times while its cranking to get it to start, and once its started the rev drop a bit below 1500, then it picks up to somewhere between 1500-2000rpm and gradually goes down as its getting warmer. Once the engine is warm, the problem is gone until a few hours later (morning or after work in the evening)

Could it be the valve module at the back of the intake plenum that needs cleaning?
 
V

vizi0n

New Member
Oh also, once the car has started (when cold) if I press the throttle lightly or hard, the revs go down and the engine comes close to a stall, but after about 5-10 seconds its ok
 
S

samgtr

Member
clean the plugs with a blow torch
make sure your batterys fully powered
Cleand your distributor cap terminals and rotor arm with some sand paper ( blow all dust off after cleaning)
check all you leads...

then try start the car up

Sam
 
S

samgtr

Member
samgtr said:
clean the plugs with a blow torch
make sure your batterys fully powered
Cleand your distributor cap terminals and rotor arm with some sand paper ( blow all dust off after cleaning)
check all you leads...

then try start the car up

Sam
Click to expand...
sorry just read you have cheked all that
 
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