Oil in Exhaust

Trip

Trip

New Member
Ok you have removed the Exhuast manifold, inlet manifold out, and rocker cover. You need to set the timing to TDC.

Rotate the crank shaft until you get it at TDC mark. Once you get it, you should find the Inlet camshaft sprocket key at 10oclock and 12 for the exhuast. Mark the chain position relative to the markings (a DOT) on the camshaft sprocket (not the key) so you will have a reference when you put it back. By default the chain already has these markings but you would need to turn round the crankshaft a lot of times in order to get all 3 markings aligned.

Next ...You need to remove the chain tensioner situated at the back. Since its under tension, unscrew the 2 nuts evenly while holding the tensioner in.

Next ...Remove the Distributer.

Next ...Remove timing chain guard. Its a metal bracket between two camshaft sprockets.

Next ... Slacken the camshaft sprocket bolts. Slowly remove bolts and sprockets one by one.. Do not let go the chain. Tie the chain to the boonet so it won't fall down.

Next ... Follow the manual and remove the camshafts. You need to undo the bolts in order..

http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=200
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
technically what ev has wrote above is correct.....but a waste of time lol

dont bother timing the engine up yet, we will explain that when you assemble it
just remove the tensioner and all the cam caps and the cams themselves (make sure you keep all the caps in order that they were removed as they need to go back in same place)

hook a bungee strap around the chain to stop it dropping right down then remove all the head bolts (10 main ones and i think 4 little 10mm bolts)
the head should then come off.
get someone to hold the bungee as you will need to feed that through the head apperture at the front, then hook it up again so chains taught.

now heres the reason timing it up before removing head is a waste of time, as youll need to turn engine over by hand
1) to check all 4 cylinders for marking and damage
2) to clean out any water and oil residue from them, you may as well clean the piston crowns aswell whilst its all off
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
pulsarboby said:
technically what ev has wrote above is correct.....but a waste of time lol

dont bother timing the engine up yet, we will explain that when you assemble it
just remove the tensioner and all the cam caps and the cams themselves (make sure you keep all the caps in order that they were removed as they need to go back in same place)

hook a bungee strap around the chain to stop it dropping right down then remove all the head bolts (10 main ones and i think 4 little 10mm bolts)
the head should then come off.
get someone to hold the bungee as you will need to feed that through the head apperture at the front, then hook it up again so chains taught.

now heres the reason timing it up before removing head is a waste of time, as youll need to turn engine over by hand
1) to check all 4 cylinders for marking and damage
2) to clean out any water and oil residue from them, you may as well clean the piston crowns aswell whilst its all off
Click to expand...
Bob, Wouldn't the crankshaft set at TDC release tension from the camshaft springs and be easier to remove camshafts ?
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
yes your quite correct there ev as most cam lobes will be on the rock
but providing you undo the cam caps equally a little at a time it will be fine!

i was merely trying to make things simpler for him so he doesnt worry too much about messing timing up etc
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
Hi Guys,

does anyone have a pic of where the tensioner is located and does anything more need to be removed to get to it?

Thanks,

Lee
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
Hiya,

Been looking at the exhaust gasket I have removed, this looks like a knackered impregmated piece of cardboard........ I hear that it is better to replace the standard one with a 3 layer standard one from an s13 200 sx?? is this true and if so anyone know the part number as Nissan are about as helpful as a chocolate fire guard.......as usual.......

Cheers,

Lee
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
Hiya,

Right, Ive now removed the cams and tied the chain up etc, I decided to set the timing at TDC and align the marks on the sprokets with the chain...... sprocket bolts were sooo tight, guess I should have loosened before removing the tensioner as everything can move unless the crank is held in with a big socket. Anyway, done now and ready for the next step???:)
set the timing just incase i dont need to remove the piston if the gasket is massively blown etc or a valve is spotted as fooked.

Please could you let me know whats next? head bolts? - any tips.

Also, just a couple of questions, The tensioner has a little hook thing on the side pinned on that swings
freely but dosent seem to link up to owt? Also, im assuming i need to remove the water pump with the 2 bolts that connect it to the head?

Thanks again guys - Im actually enjoying working in the garage / pit at minus 2 lol :der:

Thanks,

Lee
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
To remove the sprocket bolts, you had to hold the camshaft with a long spanner. You have a slot on the camshafts, to slot a spanner which if i remember correct was a size 25 or 24. it says how on the manual

No need to remove the water pump. The hook is there to keep the tensioner compressed when you put it back in. It says it all in the manual too. R.T.F.M

You should be ready to remove the head bolts. More force is needed to remove the head bolts :) but the scariest part is tightening them.
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
head bolt socket size

Hi guys

Could someone please advise what size allen socket is needed for the head bolts.

Thanks,

Lee
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
Hi Guys,
well ive got the cams off and the head bolts out, the head is now loose........ however there seems to be something under the inlet manifold still holding the head. Looking at the online manual it talks about water supply to the block connection / hose and also water pipe bolt around the back of the engine near the det sensor???? any clues / tips on this guys as i cant think how id be able to get to these with the inlet mani still on??

Also, looks like the fromt pasenger side 'outside of head bolts has stripped (the M6 x 40 ish bolt nearm the thermostat)...is,this,a,serious,issue,as,it,appears,th,have,been,loose,ever since ive had the car. - Can this be re tapped M8?

Thanks guys, im getting there slowly

Cheers,

Lee
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
water pipe's on the back of the head are holding it on (there a proper bas to get too).



Also, looks like the fromt pasenger side 'outside of head bolts has stripped (the M6 x 40 ish bolt nearm the thermostat)...is,this,a,serious,issue,as,it,appear s,th,have,been,loose,ever since ive had the car. - Can this be re tapped M8?


Can you re-type that into english as i was'nt educated in gibberish.
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
Lol,
Sorry having probs with lappy too........

I was saying i noticed that one of the small outside of head bolts was loose and had stripped. It was the bolt that joins the outside of head to the block near the thermostat. Can this be re tapped M8?

Cheers
 
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PulsarLee

New Member
Was going to drill and re tapp M8 and use a socket cap screw?......any good? do you recognise the bolt i mean

Cheers,

Lee
 
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