Hi all, id like some help with setting up the handling for my GTIR. I still have the original suspension on the car and would like to upgrade this, however i am not looking for a super stiff set up. I would like to use the car mainly on normal and country roads so a softer setting would be prefered due to the different surfaces. Please can you help me choose a suitable upgrade. I am looking for something that will improve the road holding but also soften the ride. Any ideas? Also what bushes should i choose for the suspension? Powerflex seem popular, how long do they last?
Suspension and handling
- Thread starter Perrin21
- Start date
Do the free stuff first:
tyre pressures
check your tracking
If your dampers are not doing their job then change them, it will transform any car if they are not performing. If they are alright:
Spend a little money £80:
Go for a Whiteline rear ARB. Adjustable if you want to play, non-adjustable if you don't. Change the rear ARB bushes and drop links at the same time.
Change your front ARB bushes for new OEM but leave the ARB alone. £15
Spend more money £250
look around for some second hand adjustable dampers and springs.
Grind out your strut mounts at the bottom (Search for "Coarse camber mod" as it annoys Stumo
) and add some more camber on the front and a little on the rear.
Dor the tracking again
Spend more money or at the first opportunity if your tyres are poor £400
buy 4 new really good all weather tyres. GtiR tyres are quite small so aren't that pricey.
I don't know how much you can do yourself but it isn't very expensive to create a reasonable handling R. It's quite easy to spend a lot of money and completely mess it up. I've seen more messed up cars than decent ones (Too low/stiff)
After that, save your money until something breaks on the suspension and fix it. Changing all the other bushes to powerflex is a reasonable idea but is also an expensive one if you are getting someone else to do the work.
Search on my username and you should find enough waffle to explain most things.
Jim
tyre pressures
check your tracking
If your dampers are not doing their job then change them, it will transform any car if they are not performing. If they are alright:
Spend a little money £80:
Go for a Whiteline rear ARB. Adjustable if you want to play, non-adjustable if you don't. Change the rear ARB bushes and drop links at the same time.
Change your front ARB bushes for new OEM but leave the ARB alone. £15
Spend more money £250
look around for some second hand adjustable dampers and springs.
Grind out your strut mounts at the bottom (Search for "Coarse camber mod" as it annoys Stumo
) and add some more camber on the front and a little on the rear.Dor the tracking again
Spend more money or at the first opportunity if your tyres are poor £400
buy 4 new really good all weather tyres. GtiR tyres are quite small so aren't that pricey.
I don't know how much you can do yourself but it isn't very expensive to create a reasonable handling R. It's quite easy to spend a lot of money and completely mess it up. I've seen more messed up cars than decent ones (Too low/stiff)
After that, save your money until something breaks on the suspension and fix it. Changing all the other bushes to powerflex is a reasonable idea but is also an expensive one if you are getting someone else to do the work.
Search on my username and you should find enough waffle to explain most things.
Jim
Last edited:
If it's not broken...
bernieGTIR
New Member
I do a lot of track days I and have not got powerflex bushes as there is no play in mine, but when there is I will replace them as i need them. As far as shocks and springs go i have only ever used coilovers but i can set the ones i have fairly soft for road use.
The main thing i found is get a set of whitline camber bolts for the rear (£40ish) then a full 4 wheel aliment (toe in/out front and rear camber front and rear), a good set of shocks and springs and a set of good tyres (i use toyo proxies), that alone will transform your car for not a lot of money.
It also depends on what wheel size you are using as 17"s may look the best but 15"s i have found handle the best.
All so keep a look out on ebay as second hand strutbraces come up from time to time and there always money well spent
hope this helps Paul :-D
The main thing i found is get a set of whitline camber bolts for the rear (£40ish) then a full 4 wheel aliment (toe in/out front and rear camber front and rear), a good set of shocks and springs and a set of good tyres (i use toyo proxies), that alone will transform your car for not a lot of money.
It also depends on what wheel size you are using as 17"s may look the best but 15"s i have found handle the best.
All so keep a look out on ebay as second hand strutbraces come up from time to time and there always money well spent
hope this helps Paul :-D
Thanks for all your suggestions. Which coil overs are best. I'm thinking of the tein as I don't want the ride too hard. My car pulls left so it's in need of an alignment. I had it jacked up and there is play in the suspension. You can lift the wheel up and down within the shocker. The handling is my rs weak point IMO and this will need to be improved.
stumo
Active Member
Don't get Tein............Get some BC's instead.
your shock is knackered and the car won't handle at all.
johnsy
Active Member
what camber,toe you running front and back?
why do you recommend the bc coil overs? Can you explain your choice.
stumo
Active Member
The Teins suffer from the compression damping being too heavy, probibly to compensate for the low(ish) spring rates.
The BC's have a better compression damping curve (you can choose the spring rates when you buy the BC's) and have a better ride as a result.
With both the BCs and Teins the rebound is changed by the knob but at the same time the compression is being changed too but as i've said before the Teins are just too hard if you want either comfort or decent handling on bumpy roads.
bernieGTIR
New Member
I will have a look at the aliment sheet as i dont know off the top of my head
Trip
New Member
When these were first introduced in a group buy as Apex coilovers, the suggested and final spring rates were:
5kg/mm front
4kg/mm rear
http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?50482-Group-Buy-APEX-Coilovers
Tein have limited adjustablity too where ride height is adjusted from the spring itself Vs, BC's ride height is not adjusted from the spring's perch.
In theory yes but at the moment you're out of luck. Mine, Stu's, Dan's are all off the raod for various reasons but the main one being they're second cars and we're busy with other stuff. Andy Fubar and Ant's are well setup but track focussed.
In the NW we have a lot of experience between us of different setups and driving styles etc.
Before you start you are better getting along to a meet and chatting to us. You might be the only R but it means your car gets more attention
If your shock is knackered then it's probably obvious where to start but there may be other damage as well to your arms or ball joints? Remember, to change from struts to coilovers takes a lot of setting up (1-2 days).
It's not hard or expensive but to do it right takes a lot of fiddling.
If you don't have the time to do it yourself or the money to pay someone else then don't bother. Most of the "sports" suspension setups I've seen that people paid for are simply lowered to the max, top mounts full inboard to whatever camber it gives and dampers on full stiff. Pointless.
Good luck with it all,
Jim
In the NW we have a lot of experience between us of different setups and driving styles etc.
Before you start you are better getting along to a meet and chatting to us. You might be the only R but it means your car gets more attention
If your shock is knackered then it's probably obvious where to start but there may be other damage as well to your arms or ball joints? Remember, to change from struts to coilovers takes a lot of setting up (1-2 days).
It's not hard or expensive but to do it right takes a lot of fiddling.
If you don't have the time to do it yourself or the money to pay someone else then don't bother. Most of the "sports" suspension setups I've seen that people paid for are simply lowered to the max, top mounts full inboard to whatever camber it gives and dampers on full stiff. Pointless.
Good luck with it all,
Jim
What coilovers are you fitting? You can get pretty close to leveling everything by just couting truns on the coilover. Camber is easy to change and a £30 tool from ebay will work. Tracking can be done by your local garage. I wouldn't use a tuner as it takes along time to do a proper job. I wouldn't bother taking the car to a tuner for an alignment, there are better people who will be cheaper. I'm happy to help when I can but nowadays I'm always short on time. If you get stuck or need advive then post up.