stugtir300
Active Member
Cheers dangerous,when you say its a breather for the transfer box am I right in thinking its to stop it overheating.
inlet manifold removal.
- Thread starter stugtir300
- Start date
stugtir300
Active Member
The wife is my dishwasher,you've spoilt yours.
Gtir123
Member
Will it make the car any better by deleting all pipe work and Icv etc...
does it do same job as suburus... Keeps throttle body colder.???
was tempted to do this as mine sometimes hunts and sits at just over 1k on tick over and replaced pipe work for silicone hoses
just want to know who's done this.!.???
does it do same job as suburus... Keeps throttle body colder.???
was tempted to do this as mine sometimes hunts and sits at just over 1k on tick over and replaced pipe work for silicone hoses
just want to know who's done this.!.???
Dangerous Dave
Active Member
Silicone hoses are no good for the cars.
Gtir123
Member
So what pipes would you use to upgrade the hoses...??? And vac pipes..!!????
if there not any good why do aloy of people use them
stugtir300
Active Member
Evening all,with a bit of luck I should be putting the inlet back on this weekend,I know there's torque settings for the inlet/plenum top but nothing for bolting the inlet back to the head,is there a sequence/pattern when bolting the inlet back up and should I do the nuts as tight as I can?
I did the nuts up from the inside out (i.e. cylinders 2 and 3, then 4 and 1), but they're only as tight as a ring spanner could get them... in case it had to come back off again.
I didn't bother with any particular torque for the plenum top either, but that's mostly because I didn't have a new gasket so it's got silicone sealant instead.
One thing you might notice is that your idle speed drops, and you need to back the idle screw out to stop it hunting and almost stalling.
I didn't bother with any particular torque for the plenum top either, but that's mostly because I didn't have a new gasket so it's got silicone sealant instead.
One thing you might notice is that your idle speed drops, and you need to back the idle screw out to stop it hunting and almost stalling.
stugtir300
Active Member
Pobody,did u get any excess sealant inside the plenum chamber,I still have the gasket on mine it looks in good condition so I dont know whether to reuse it or use gastite sealant,is the idle screw on the right of the inlet near the throttle position sensor?
I've had problems in the past re-using inlet manifold gaskets. I'm not saying no but don't be surprised if it doesn't seal properly
I tried not to. - I did a test fit then opened it up again and wiped the excess sealant off; gently assembled it, let it set for a bit and then tightened it up.
It might still have squeezed some out, but hopefully not much.
Yes, the idle screw is part of the IAC assembly on the bottom of the manifold. - It makes sense that you might have fixed some vacuum leaks, so the idle is too low when the manifold is refitted.
I hope that means there's more vacuum going to the servo assist on my master cylinder now... and that probably also means less boost leaks too.
It might still have squeezed some out, but hopefully not much.
Yes, the idle screw is part of the IAC assembly on the bottom of the manifold. - It makes sense that you might have fixed some vacuum leaks, so the idle is too low when the manifold is refitted.
I hope that means there's more vacuum going to the servo assist on my master cylinder now... and that probably also means less boost leaks too.
stugtir300
Active Member
Evening all, inlet back on and up and running, replaced all the hoses, no leaks,which am happy about, just need to sort the high idle (1500rpm) before I did all the hoses it idled around 800rpm, ill let you all know how I get on.
stugtir300
Active Member
Evening all,not done much in the way of sorting the higher idle,after replacing all the hoses after the water leak,managed to have a little play tonight,now when the car is sat idling and I manipulate the throttle arms that are connected to the inlet the idle drops to 1200 instead of 1500,obviously when I removed the inlet to do the hoses I cleaned the inlet,ive read that the throttle butterfly's have a seal around the edge so they seat tight and over time they wear out,now can I adjust the butterfly positions with the two grub screws that the throttle arms seat on or is it best to balance the butterfly's with the balance screws on the inlet to reduce thr idle?
stugtir300
Active Member
As last post,what would you all suggest,what would be the best solution.
You can just adjust the stops with the grub screws; I don't think I'd attempt to rebalance the throttle bodies, but if you've got the skill and patience there's probably a gain.
I assume you've put the idle screw all the way in, so it must be an air leak somewhere else? - What dump valve are you running; any chance it leaks under vacuum at idle?
I assume you've put the idle screw all the way in, so it must be an air leak somewhere else? - What dump valve are you running; any chance it leaks under vacuum at idle?
Just adjust the accelerator cable and you can set the revs that way.
It's possible it's out, so adjust and set to suit like I did
It's possible it's out, so adjust and set to suit like I did
stugtir300
Active Member
Evening,sorted the idle by adjusting the grub screws,she now sits at 1000 rpm instead of 1500,another job done,pobody the idle screw was all the way in,I doubt it has ever been touched,fubar andy when you set your revs with the throttle cable,at the risk of sounding thick what did you do (a pic would be good if you can post one on this thread, cheers.)