Passenger Side Gearbox / Drive Shaft Noise

[Sailor96]

Hey fellas, I've been fumbling about in the forum looking for answers that have similar symptoms to the noise coming from my PS driveshaft/gearbox area. Mixed thoughts about what it might be, and since the engine is out, thought it might be best to get a second opinion before I just go ahead and tear open the trans

on right turns the PS front will make a rumbling noise, increases with speed and turn severity
First gear whines from stop accelerating and at slow speeds
Vibration coming into first gear while releasing the clutch

Now, with the engine and drive shafts out, rotating the inner joints that are still connected to the gearbox reproduces the sound but ever so slightly. Like a cradled knocking. Seems to be more in towards the bell housing, extremely hard to differentiate between the noise coming from the PS input shaft bearing

Did some searching here of course, came up with possible reasons:
Input shaft bearings
Clutch release bearings
CV Joint

Would any of you more experienced R mechanics have input for something that's similar that you've come across?

 

[Cathode]

because you said:
"on right turns the PS front will make a rumbling noise, increases with speed and turn severity"

I'd check the CV joint first and / or hub bearings. If it looks pretty tired i'd get a new one. You may have -lets hope not- more than just one problem that could be making a noise but the CV joint would be my first thing to check.

because you said:
" Vibration coming into first gear while releasing the clutch "

Have you got aftermarket stiff engine mounts? Because that'll do it. If not it may be the pressure plate.

Input shaft bearing:
The most worrisome symptom of a bad input shaft bearing is the vehicle suddenly shifting gears when stepping on the clutch. Is that happening at all? Has it ever happened? The failure of the input shaft bearing allows the shaft to have too much movement, which creates problems with gear shafts not being properly aligned.

Clutch release bearing:
I doubt it's this, only by the description you've given. They only tend to make a racket when the clutch is applied. It may indicate a bad throwout bearing. You'll here it when apllying the clutch stationery. A rattly kind of sound and whirring. On the contrary In some cases the clutch bearings always make a slight noise until applied where it'll go away. I had this on a Mistsubishi GTO and on a 370z. Whilst driving you may not hear it unless it's really bad in which case your clutch will be taking the brunt of the bearing not doing its job resulting in some really jerky gear changes unless you have perfected the art of changing gear without a clutch.

hope this helps.

 

[Sailor96]

Thanks for the write-up @Cathode

Defiantly going to swap out for a new CV joint then, thanks. Don't know enough about them to tell if it's buggered as they say, son would rather pop a new one in

I have the hubs out completely, but other than having some old grease, the bearings seem to be in near perfect condition. No noise while rotating them with the hub, and virtually no play that I can feel. I might pick up some more bearings and just have them replaced anyway just in case, like you said could be multiple problems causing this

As for mounts, they are stock-o all around. I'll be replacing with a full set of poly bushes from a member here, mostly because all of them were torn at multiple points. Maybe opting for rubber on the engine/trans mounts to mitigate this would help
Would be hard to test if the pressure plate/flywheel has faulted

For the input shaft I have never had it slip into gear with the clutch depressed, stayed firmly in gear once engaged. So must not be the input shaft bearing after all which is a relief.
Also the symptoms you described for the clutch release bearing are not sounding familiar, so possibly rule these two out as potential causes

 

[Sailor96]

Would it be best to replace the passenger side inner and outer joints in that case?

 

[Sailor96]

Parts are on the horizon

Drive Shafts: as it turns out, it is simply cheaper to just order aftermarket drive shafts. A shop located in AU called Allied Auto has both of the fronts for 132usd. shipping was pretty much double that. Still overall cheaper than getting individual parts. Will see if they are any good for anyone looking to do this in the future.

Wheel Bearings: Went with JPN wheel bearing kit (10L1014-JPN) company in japan must make quality bearings no? Went ahead and got all 4 across a couple of stores, to include fleabay, just so I have them for when I get into the rear of the car. Already received one, and verified the dimensions were correct, they were spot on. Kit also included all three dust boot covers, spring clips, and pin

 

[Cathode]

Would it be best to replace the passenger side inner and outer joints in that case?

100%

 

[Sailor96]

Turns out those shafts I ordered didn't fit.

In the end it was a combination of wheel bearings and torn or worn CV boots.

New bearings/seals and cleaning and repacking the CV joints worked wonders

 

[Cathode]

Turns out those shafts I ordered didn't fit.

In the end it was a combination of wheel bearings and torn or worn CV boots.

New bearings/seals and cleaning and repacking the CV joints worked wonders

Glad you found the problem. Shame you bought those shafts though and they don't fit. So much for sale that is purported to be for the GTiR and it turns out that it really isn't. Been there and done that my friend.