Eagle Rods

Keira

New Member
LOU ROB said:
Mike adkins uses eagles with no problems at all .
that because other than a few hours on the dyno it hasn't actually run ;)

they're probably rusty by now its been sat their so long :lol: only time will tell.

Tbh, i doubt anyone will have a problem with the eagles, alot of the problems from what i've seen were down to the early eagles using a small rod bolt but there are instances of the cap pulling straight off and also bearings being destroyed where the big end destorted, however if anyone does have any probs, i'll be first inline to tell them i 'told you so' ;) :lol:
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
@Rob

Mine were 2nd hand from Pete robinson and are probably from a similar time. Doesn't time fly when you're having fun :doh:

Weight wise 3 of mine were fine but the 4th was too light and so the other 3 had to be brought down as far as the engineering shop dared whilst being re-balanced. I think the end result was around 4g difference.

It sounds like when yours were made they didn't have the one eyed, half pi**ed senile old bloke on quality control who works there part-time and perdiodically sends out any old c**p. And yes I am bitter and twisted over their products :lol: :lol:
 

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
campbellju said:
then stick with your OE rods Toby, Steve P is using my old ones, I think he just had them shot peened and some new bolts. My PAR rods needed £200 of additional machining to make them right and they're still not great now. I've seen Stu's Pauters and they are excellent but in the 400sih HP range, do you really need them?
Jim

3 of your old rods have served me well (one had a crack I used one of my originals to make up the forth) and
have seen some punishment since I built the engine but .........................

I had the rods Magna-flux crack tested, checked for straightness and twist, the big end tunnels machined back to factory spec (by removing a couple of thou from rod and cap mating surface's), machined straight, new gudgeon pin bushes fitted and machined to suit the new Wiseco wrist pins, then all shot peened, polished and reassembled with ARP 2000 bolts. They were also end to end balanced (to within a gram).

This work then complimented the OEM crank which was crack tested, reground, knife edged, shot peened and polished. The block also went through the crack testing, cylinders bored to suit Wiseco 87mm pistons and the main bearing journals were line bored to bring the crankcase back to straight. I also nibbed off and polished the all the insides of the crankcase and sump pan as much as possible to aid oil return to the sump.

Then ALL the rotating parts were dynamically balanced by Bassett Engineering (Swindon). The guy at Bassett Engineering has much experience with the SR20 engines and knew what my goals for the engine were said that prepared like this, he had seen these standard rods take allot more power that I planed to put through them.

Pretty basic stuff really but necessary in my opinion

It's all about matching all the parts correctly and trying to remove as many potential weak links as possible, there's no point in having rods that'll take a 1000 bhp if the rest of the build isn't up to it. If your goal is 400 - 500 or 600 break, all the components in the build need to be considered and matched as best as possible.
 
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campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Ahhhh, thanks for correcting me Steve. Sorry for the duff rod, its sounds like you did a thorough job in sorting out the standard rods. Interesting read
 

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
campbellju said:
Ahhhh, thanks for correcting me Steve. Sorry for the duff rod, its sounds like you did a thorough job in sorting out the standard rods. Interesting read
It wasn't my intention to go into that much a detailed explanation :lol: but in for a penny..............
 
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