Help with sorting my idle out.

[stumo]

Have you checked your ign timing?

You need to disconnect the TPS when you set the timing....

It doesn't take much of a leak to get a high idle, it might be the nick on the o ring of your BOV.

You could try clamping the vac pipe going to the BOV, that will eliminate the BOV.

You need to re-check all the vac/boost pipes that are between the engine and the butterflies.

Any pipe that connects between the butterflies and air filter won't normally affect the idle (but will affect the AFR).

 

[PobodY]

I can't find my timing gun, or I would have done it already... I remember wrapping it up carefully in a cloth bag, but I can't find it now. :doh:

I think I'm going backwards - I've been out for a spin, and when I stop at the lights the idle is over 2k (and then drops back down). :shock:

I'm beginning to wish that I hadn't started this now. :roll:

 

[PobodY]

It doesn't take much of a leak to get a high idle, it might be the nick on the o ring of your BOV.

You could try clamping the vac pipe going to the BOV, that will eliminate the BOV.

I think you might be onto a winner here! -
I started her, waited for the idle to settle.
Disconnected the TPS and fiddled with the idle screw; it's as low as it'll go.
Reconnected the TPS and the idle jumped up, then settled back down again.
Squished the vacuum line to the BOV.... 1500....1250.....1000.
Released it; and it stayed put... blipped the throttle and up it went again... clamped it; and down it came to 1000 again.

That makes sense with the idle going up after I've been driving because the valve will have opened (and not quite shut again)...

So; do Bailey sell a rebuild kit with new O-rings, or am I up for a new BOV? (Maybe one that fits without a dodgy double plumbing job.)

EDIT - A bit of research suggests that what I have installed is a Bailey DV24; single piston blow-off valve for carburetted engines. I need a DV26; dual piston unit for engines with an AFM (to enable a steady idle).

 

[tony1981]

very interesting thread pobody, if my car wasn't outside with a fucked clutch i'd say you've been driving my car around it sounds just the same as the problems i've had for the last twelve months. keep up the good work and let us know what it turns out to be

 

[fubar andy]

EDIT - A bit of research suggests that what I have installed is a Bailey DV24; single piston blow-off valve for carburetted engines. I need a DV26; dual piston unit for engines with an AFM (to enable a steady idle).

I'd just junk it all together and get a better make.

Too often I hear about Bailey BOV's that are broken or not doing their job right.

 

[PobodY]

I think the problem is that people cheap-out (or don't know what they're buying) with the Bailey - a single piston valve is only useful for cars without an AFM (like old RS turbos?). I've been pretty happy with it... until today when I realised that maybe this is the problem with the idle. It's reasonably subtle; it doesn't whistle or sound like it's in a tin of nuts.

I'm looking on eBay now for a cheap alternative - I don't want some dodgy Yum-Cha BOV, but I don't want to pay big money for a new SSQ... even if they are canine testes.

What I'm looking for is a reliable, quiet, valve. - I don't need people looking at me and shaking their heads every time I change gear. I don't need the noise, but I do need to vent the pressure to stop my compressor wheel getting damaged... and the butterflies too I guess.

I'm open to suggestions. - I'd even consider re-installing a recirculating valve, but I'm not sure that I've still got something to plumb it back into.

 

[fubar andy]

You could always opt for a Turbosmart re-cric system?

Have you looked in the for sale section or Bob's thread?

 

[PobodY]

very interesting thread pobody, if my car wasn't outside with a fucked clutch i'd say you've been driving my car around it sounds just the same as the problems i've had for the last twelve months. keep up the good work and let us know what it turns out to be

Well, here's an update for you all...
I've been away this last few days, and that involved driving from North Wales to Norfolk. Here's the odd thing; after about an hour of driving the idle dropped to ~1000... and has stuck there ever since.
I pull up, it reads ~1250... give it 30 seconds or so and the idle drops to where it should be.

I don't know what I did, but it seems to be working - it's actually a little disconcerting because I keep thinking that it's about to stall.

 

[GTiR-Aholic]

all the R's i've had have had this problem.. my most recent I got last weekend idles at 1800.. i just can't be bothered with it.

Glad to hear you've got yours idling so nice!!.. I know I'm gona have to do mine soon before the new box goes in

 

[PobodY]

Photographic proof that I'm not just making it up:

 

[stumo]

Mine idles at 950 8)

 

[Mr GTiR]

Mine idles at 950 once warmed up.

 

[red reading]

850-950 when warm,like a b4stid and lumpy when cold

 

[craige101]

If this help you - What i did was change the air flow regulator the shaft inside it was wobby so air was getting past, i think its the choke for when its cold its on the back of the engine if you follow the pipe from the ACC valve down to it .
My idle was always at 1250 now its 950 and i can play with the idle screw to get it perfect now

 

[PobodY]

So; do Bailey sell a rebuild kit with new O-rings..

For those who are interested: No, they don't. However, they will rebuild it for you (and convert it to a DV26 for £37.38 inc VAT.

Here's what they told me:
Thanks for your e-mail. We carry out all dump valve repairs on site, we do not offer any DIY re-build or repair kits. This is because when a used valve is stripped, it need to be re-polished inside and have its bore tolerances checked, which is something your average user would have trouble doing! By getting the valves returned directly to us, we can assure that they are in 100% perfect working order when despatched.

All our valves built from 2001 onwards are re-buildable, with either 5 or 6 screws around the lid. This type of valve can be fully re-built for the cost of £37.38 including VAT and return delivery. The returned valve will be fully stripped, re-polished, ultrasonically cleaned and then fitted with all new internals, screws, seals and lubricant. The valve will also carry a further 12 month warranty from time of repair. Should any part of the returned valve be un-usable for any reason it will be replaced within the standard re-build price.

We can of course convert your DV24 into a DV26 for the same price !

Regards

Bruce Hatton
BAILEY MOTORSPORT