Oil advice and recommendations here

mikeyp

New Member
i'm just about to change my oil and filter and have had conflicting "advice" as to weather to use an engine flush before i drain the old oil.
should i be using an engine flush at all? are there good and bad ones?

also, are additives like slick 50 worth using with a decent fully synth oil?

i'm running a lightly modded R with only road/fast road use.

and when i do my winter service what oil should i be using in both the boxes and the engine for a full winter (5 months) of driving in the snow and ice in the alps?
the daytime temps are below freezing and the nighttime temps can be as low as -30*c
 
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oilman

Member
There is no need to flush the engine and flushing can be harmful. What can happen is the flush can loosen harmless deposits in the engine, but then not remove them. Your new oil goes in and after it gets warm and is flowing nicely, the bits which are loosened come off into the oil, so you end up with hard bits floating around in your oil - the last thing you want. If you really want to flush the oil system, the best thing you can do is drain out the oil that is in there, put in some mineral oil and run the car for a couple of days. After running it, drain out the mineral oil and put in the correct oil.

Don't touch oil additives (except limited slip friction modifiers, but then only if needed). Good quality modern oils contain everything they need, so adding something knocked up to make easy money isn't a good plan. Have a look at the link below

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Aftermarket-oil-additives.pdf

Some oils are thicker than others, some can be affected more by temperature, that will affect the pressure.

With it getting that cold in the winter, you could use a 0w-40 or 5w-40 oil, or possibly invest in a sump warmer.

Cheers

Tim
 

dave_gtir

New Member
hi there not sure what oil is in my pulsar as ive just bought it im going to be servicing it soon what oil do you recomend?

its a 1994 pulsar
its only really used as a weekend toy
its got exhaust,filter,fuelpump,front mount and 1.1bar boost

thanks
 

oilman

Member
Hi

Go for a 10w-50 if it's driven hard and these are the ones that we stock.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

Both are really good oils, absolute top of the range ones, so go with any brand preference you have.

A 10w-40 is a better choice for normal use

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx

The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS. As a cheaper alternative the Fuchs XTR, Motul 6100 and Millers XSS are good choices.

Cheers

Tim
 

Spikey

New Member
Do you know about Transmission Fluids?
Can the Honda MTF be used on our Nissan Pulsar?
Nissan Recommend 75/90
just Hondas mtf would be thinner :)
 
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ThermalPenguin

New Member
Hello mate I'm going to be doing a full service on my car soon changing all the oils but I haven't owned my pulsar for very long so was just gunna look for some advice on what oils to use really.

The car is a 1993 pulsar gtir, it has around 99600 miles on it with a full exhaust system and front mount intercooler running around 1bar. The top end seems a little tappy as well so if tree is any oil I could use to quieten it down a little bit that would be great :) also would like to know please what oils to use in my diff, transfer box and gearbox.

Your help will be greatly appreciated

Craig
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
ATF in the transfer box? That's a new one on me.
I think it's technically for the viscous coupling, but as that's a sealed unit it doesn't get changed unless you've got the whole lot in bits. I'm pretty sure I put 75w90 in mine.

For some reason that's what's in the Opie Oils database, and someone always comments/corrects it.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Er.... good point, that's something I always get wrong. - I still think the ATF is to go in the centre diff if you ever take it apart.
 

splmum

Active Member
I have used these products for 40 years in a variety of cars and currently in my GTI-R for the past 10 years.

If you follow these guidelines then you cannot go wrong.

Engine Castrol Formula R 'EDGE' Sport 10W-60 - New Formula
Gearbox / Transfer Case / Differentials Castrol Syntrax 75W-90
Brake/Clutch Castrol Response Super DOT-4
Power Steering Castrol Automatic TQ -III (Dextron compatible)
Anti-Freeze Nulon SR Series (Concentrate)
Filter (Oil) Nissan 15208-53J0A (Alternative) - 15208-53J00
Filter (Fuel) with ABS Nissan 16400-53J10
Flusher Engine Generic Brand Mineral Oil

hth
 

oilman

Member
ATFs go in a lot of manual gearboxes, things like the Getrag boxes used in Skyline R34 GTRs, many BMWs, some Supras, some Mercs, etc etc etc, and they work absolutely fine.

Our data does say it needs an ATF in the transfer box and to be honest, before I posted that up, I was a little unsure about it. As I couldn't 100% remember, I went with the standard data.
 

red reading

Active Member
ATF fluid is probley used if you have a lsd front diff, you can also use 75w/90w with friction modifiers. i would'nt use atf if not needed and definatley not in our gearboxes. getrag boxes have internal oil pumps so the reason they use atf will be the anti foaming properties to stop the pump pushing air.
 
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