please read

You might want to check this: My R used to do a similar thing- tootle down motorway in heavy traffic 60-70mph off boost then traffic clears, boot it, and SORT OF LAGGY NOT GOING ANYWHERE ON BOOST FEELING.

So i read on here that standard clutches can slip, especially when cold and put it down to the clutch cooling down in low torque situations and slipping when i hoofed it. This made sense as the problem stopped when the car had been driven hard for a little while.

Changed clutch- hey presto problem gone.
 
R

RJC

Guest
little ghost said:
You might want to check this: My R used to do a similar thing- tootle down motorway in heavy traffic 60-70mph off boost then traffic clears, boot it, and SORT OF LAGGY NOT GOING ANYWHERE ON BOOST FEELING.

So i read on here that standard clutches can slip, especially when cold and put it down to the clutch cooling down in low torque situations and slipping when i hoofed it. This made sense as the problem stopped when the car had been driven hard for a little while.

Changed clutch- hey presto problem gone.
Oh dear, That sounds like it could be it.

did the car feel a little juddery before it boosted when the clutch was slipping?
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
If your clutch slips your engine revs will rise while your road speed doesn't (or not as fast if it's only abit of slip)
I always thought a slipping clutch was easy to notice :oops: (I certainly noticed mine doing it tonight 3 or 4 times :evil: )
 
R

RJC

Guest
Fast Guy said:
If your clutch slips your engine revs will rise while your road speed doesn't (or not as fast if it's only abit of slip)
I always thought a slipping clutch was easy to notice :oops: (I certainly noticed mine doing it tonight 3 or 4 times :evil: )
yeah I did think I would have thought of that before, but you never know.
 
No, the car didn't feel juddery before it slipped, but i noticed the problem got a whole lot worse after i had been in a nightmare 2 hour traffic jam so in retrospect all the evidence pointed towards the clutch.

And i didn't notice the revs increase alarmingly when it slipped as Fast Guy suggested, although i was expecting the revs to rise quickly because i was puttting my foot down... The needle didn't bounce around anyway.

The judder could be put down to the kind of clutch that's dying? Mine was standard...
 

Nigell_d6

New Member
Loss power

Hi,

read all the notes and now going to put a spanner in the works,

had the same problem, with new AP racing clutch and Norris front mount, knock sensor OK, however the crank angle sensor was itermitently giving fault, but this would show up on the fault check, my answer is drive it fast like its meant to be!!!!

If it is the crank angle sensor, after noteing the problem, stop the car, switch off leave for 30seconds or so, carry on your way, this resets the ECU fault/ sensor so everying thing should be ok till next time,

Nigel
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
little ghost said:
And i didn't notice the revs increase alarmingly when it slipped as Fast Guy suggested, although i was expecting the revs to rise quickly because i was puttting my foot down... The needle didn't bounce around anyway.
It doesn't have to be alarmingly fast, just faster than the road speed increasing would justify. You should be able to sense it though your backside. :wink:
 
R

RJC

Guest
Re: Loss power

Nigell_d6 said:
Hi,

read all the notes and now going to put a spanner in the works,

had the same problem, with new AP racing clutch and Norris front mount, knock sensor OK, however the crank angle sensor was itermitently giving fault, but this would show up on the fault check, my answer is drive it fast like its meant to be!!!!

If it is the crank angle sensor, after noteing the problem, stop the car, switch off leave for 30seconds or so, carry on your way, this resets the ECU fault/ sensor so everying thing should be ok till next time,

Nigel
Any one have any idea how much a crank angle sensor would be??
I read about them causing a problem on the technical page.
 

Nigell_d6

New Member
Hi,

its built into the distributer, and as far as I am aware cannot be bought seperately, Nissan, £500+ , however before you start spending money, not everything shows up on the fault check, unless you use OBD1 in car reader such as Consult, (Nissans system). There is others on the market, best option, take it somewhere reliable who is used to Pulsars, the money you spend on the diagnostics can save thousands, Pulsars are not a cheap runaround.

For example Consult is £4000+
Maverick £1700+

Nigel
 
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