Pulsar coming back to life

[Eng1]

Some sunny days coming up ,so moving forward along the underside of the car .
not too bad underneath,mostly surface rust where it was stood and years of road crud old oil leaks , rubbers and bushes all look good .
Today fitted a solid gear shift mount (old one was perfect and little change to feel )and lower brace .
Question- has anybody used a laminova oil cooler?
I already have an normal oil cooler which sits on top of the engine , where the original intercooler was.
It works fine but looks cluttered in the bay .
I have a mocal laminova cooler which has the same oil fittings but is considerably smaller and easier to hide .
I also have a remote water stat (a billet housing with stock size stat in it) about 10cm long , so I can T in from the stock water line and supply the cooler with radiator water in a loop and choose a stat temp .
This would give good oil warm up and constant oil temps .
Or I could use the charge cooler water supply as the water lines are the same size and overcool the oil which would mean having it switched by solenoid only when oil temps rise too high then off again when they drop and need monitoring as you hoon around but have a fast warm up (the current cooler does add a Considerable time to oil warm up )

 

[Eng1]

Moving forwards along the car , and dinitrol
Sprayed in all the hidden areas with under seal applied to the visible areas , looks like a long term steering rack weep on drivers side has protected much underneath but was very messy !
Fitted a lower brace , Cusco , but for the life of me I can’t see how it would work? It’s bolted to chassis box section , double skin with factory spot weld , just about the strongest part of the whole chassis ! If there was any movement the welds would
Pop
It also only gives me about 1 mm clearance with the exhaust down pipe so I expect a tap tap as the engine rocks
Engine was fresh rebuild and the gearbox is quaife rebuilt with my own selector forks ,new bearings and external brace fitted , all looks good and no leaks , all the lines behind the engine were replaced when the engine was out
So onto the front -fmic out and chargecooler rad in time ...

 

[Eng1]

Slight delay due to the alarm /immobiliser playing up - so I removed the damn thing along with a turbo timer that was previously fitted .
Wiring now back to as it was pre alarm .
So front off next and fmic out , if anyone wants a fmic and pipework (£50) let me know -looks in good order , but a bit too small for any of my other cars

 

[Eng1]

Laying out the chargecooler bits ,pump looks easiest to fit down here

 

[Eng1]

And chargecooler layout here , bit of a squeeze but first mock up , the boost pipes are kept real short .
Weighed the two fmic/charge cooler and charge cooler is 2.5 kg more in total , think I can cope with that

 

[Eng1]

The cooler rad (aluminium) has 2 fans on , but I doubt I’ll need them , it should always be cold to the touch , as water takes a Massive amount of heat energy to heat up .
If stationary for long periods in traffic say , you are off boost so little heat produced , but I suspect putting the fans on will cool the chargecooler rad and the normal rad , so the normal rad fans never come on . Only testing will tell

 

[Eng1]

Dinitrol - this area has been dinitrol coated , you can see the brown puddling where I couldn’t be arsed wiping it off , it’s pretty clear when done nicely , I didn’t !
BUT it will take water spray at 200 mph and remain!! It leeches into gaps and will work for 30 years !! It is a hard coat once dry and can be removed with white spirit on flat surfaces ,in gaps I don’t think you could ever get it out .
If wanting concours then maybe not for you but if you just don’t want corrosion,way to go !!

 

[Eng1]

Chargecooler is in (temp fit and wire ) ,so I filled it (just over 3.5 litres ) and tested , it self bled in 20 seconds (used clear pipe section so I can see any air bubbles ) then I ran for two hours - perfect ,good flow and turnover of water .
Pump is rubber mounted but you can still hear it running (a buzz) , which is a good thing as you can know it’s running before starting engine .
The buzz is different if air is present so you will also know if you have a leak
Final fit and wire routing over the weekend and then some testing

 

[Eng1]

Wiring continues , I’ve combined 3 circuits into one new loom , chargecooler pump , fans , and front fog lights , and run it to the bulkhead inside of the car .
The 3 relays tucked in nicely to the inner wings .
I’ve got an oem fog light switch to fit next to the HRW switch in the blank .
The fog lights came with a loom /relay but oddly the connectors are H7 and the beams fitted are H1 ??
So I guess someone fitted the wrong 6 inch beam bulbs .
I’m thinking of fitting new 6 inch beams ,so choices :, yellow?, clear with led halo? Clear?led? , daylight covers? Covers with logo ? Nissan logo ? GT and IR ? What’s best ?

 

[Eng1]

Wiring continues, had to remove the front arch liner to run cables , So had the chance to inspect the front of sill area and inner wing area - it was mint , not a spec of rust , so rustproofed and undersealed . I think the long time the car was in Japan before import has kept the rust bug away , I’ve found little or no rust in all the favourite areas

 

[Eng1]

All the wiring now done and all working , cooler pump is switched as is the fans for the rad and the spot lights wired up , so that’s pretty much all the mechanicals and electrics done , so just cosmetics
Left , interior and paint - then final high boost mapping - job done !

 

[Eng1]

Mathematically , dyno targets are :
Currently at 340 @1 bar
This gives an unboosted 170 hp
425 @1.5 bar
505 @ 2 bar
If all efficiencies remain constant (they wont)
The turbo was built for 2 bar .
Now with the chargecooler fitted it will interesting to see the base line 340 hp @1 bar again to compare the inter cooling efficiency.
The engine is very healthy ,I know as it’s fresh built and I have a water injection kit to fit if detonation raises its ugly head with higher boost levels -
In my head I’m thinking circa 450 hp is a good compromise at whatever boost that is .
Plenty of power for the weight of the car , tyre traction limits and the qearbox torque limits .
And use 1 bar as it’s day to day setting with higher options available .
Sound reasonable ?
I may fit the WI just to keep the pistons clean at a low spray /high boost/short duration and not map for it , not sure on this yet , you can make things overly complex

 

[campbellju]

Just been having a proper catch up on your thread.

Cusco bottom brace, yes, it taps like crazy. I wrapped mine in thermal wrap to brace the exhaust against the brace to reduce it.

I originally had an everyday map of lower boost but stopped using it as the chassis was quite happy with 450hp and in lower boost modes the engine just felt restricted. The mapping characteristics when coming on boost were different as at 1bar the boost controller performed differently compared to 1.9bar. I ran the 1.9bar map day to day, fine tuned it in and averaged 25mpg. I did do a seperate map for track days at 1.4 bar which was the bottom end of the turbos operating zone with retarded ignition. On the road you use full boost infrequently so high boost is easier to manage temps than on a track.

I bought WI but never got round to fitting it, the science is good

What turbo are you running?

 

[Eng1]

I have some thermal wrap left over from the exhaust manifold wrap , so I will for that to the lower brace ,
Good to know it’s not just my instal with close clearance .
Running just at high boost is viable for road use ,it’s not often you can hold high boost anyway as it gets to serious speeds .
I have high boost issues with some of my other cars ,especially in the wet or damp , traction or the loss of can be frightening and the rear steps out .
I don’t think the GTIR will be like that with the spread of torque to 4 wheels .
Turbo wise ,it a one off based on the 2871 Garrett, made for me by AET , the compressor is their own billet unit very similar to Garrett and the turbine is a Garrett but has some clipped wheel .
According to AET they found at high speed/flow the wheel was restricting the turbo , so the clipping allowed greater speed and flow . How much and where exactly they clipped I don’t know , but it works fantastically, spools super fast .
Gave 340 hp @ 1 bar
Water injection wise I have a couple of choices
1 I have a system of a WRC cosworth , this has its own ECU and map sensor , temp sensor and flow sensor , so it’s a complex system and will take Time to set up
2 I have a bog standard system pump tank nozzle and a pressure activated switch
3 I have developed my own system which is unlike any I have seen before , there is a lot of science involved with this system and it’s experimental.

option 3 will take many days on a dyno to gather data and set up and it’s heavy on the physics to understand

 

[campbellju]

Thanks for responding. I'm still running an old aet 3071gt, it's been robust but is old technology compared to latest g series. I keep looking at upgrade options but the gtir is always low on the priority list so still just looking. The latest g series allegedly can give the same flow with greater efficiency from a 2860. Garret are known for over promising and only giving incrimental improvements. I could be a late adopter once all the hype is confirmed with real world experience.

I'll be interested to see what you do on the WI.

 

[Eng1]

From what I’ve seen (you tube ) the G series looks like a great turbo , I am keen to try on my 1jz as it seems to be a match made in heaven .
real world often disappoints.
I’m looking to add a second in line barrel chargecooler after the first one as I have all the hardware in place to simply extend the water lines .
It’s belt and braces really and you loose efficiency in the cooler because of the delta temp being much lower secondary cooling .
WI -
I have looked at this for a very long time and gathered the parts necessary.
It is experimental but each part has been done before and is known to work .
It’s a Pre turbo system , this has been done but always causes blade erosion due to the droplet size.
So I am passing the water spray through a high speed fan(electric aeromodellers ) 100000 rpm , this will shatter the droplets into a finer spray and accelerate them .
Droplets must be kept small ,around 1-2 microns , normally spray is around 20+ microns but as they move in a flow they collide and merge (coalescence) so two 20 microns become 40 microns and so on until droplets form and damage the turbo blades .
This merging requires time and distance (pipe length) so accelerating the droplets removes the time element .
The air feed is via a Y pipe , one side is the fan and WI the other is the normal air filter .
The turbo during spool has to create a vacuum to suck in air , this energy comes from the turbine .
By pushing air / saturated with water via a fan you off load some of the turbine load as it feeds the vacuum during spool.
The Y pipe is angled so the air/saturated is made to spin in the direction of the turbo compressor blade rotation , the air has been accelerated so will rotate and this alters the angle of attack much like a VNT turbo - this increases the compressor efficiency mostly during spool .
At some point the turbo will create more vacuum than the fan could possibly supply and the air will come via the normal air filter source .
Once on full boost the water is reduced as detonation is less a problem as it is during transient acceleration .
Basically reducing the spool time ,increasing the compressor efficiency and anti detonation reducing the output air temperature all in one
The fan blades become sacrificial they are nylon and will wear over time but they are around £2 each and easy to replace.
Because the heat of compression is take out at source (the compressor ) inter cooling requirement is reduced and saturated air acts as anti detonation and cleans pistons .
LOTS of testing needed !!!! And first on a non maf car

 

[MarkTurbo]

The latest g series allegedly can give the same flow with greater efficiency from a 2860. Garret are known for over promising and only giving incrimental improvements. I could be a late adopter once all the hype is confirmed with real world experience.

Somebody tried to convince me to go for one of the new G series turbo's when I was buying one but lack of real world results put me off, that and I'm still a bit miffed with Garrett after my old 3071 basically fell to pieces

Ended up sticking with the original plan and buying a Borg Warner efr as they have been around a while now and I know it'll do what I want it to

 

[fubar andy]

I'm still a bit miffed with Garrett after my old 3071 basically fell to pieces

Is that when they used plastic bearing cage and it got brittle with heat cycles?

 

[Eng1]

I think Garrett opened a factory in China , which prompted a Quality drop and copy turbos to get out .
Any improvements in turbine and compressor is likely to be small , there is a limit to what you can do , material wise and design wise and still keep cost down .
That’s why I looked at wet compression , many have achieved a 1-3 psi gain , I’m looking for nearer 7 psi gain at the same turbine RPM and a much faster spool ,somewhere in the 50% area
When the internal limit is reached you have to look at the external effects.
as soon as a company moves to China for manufacturing, reducing cost ,next comes the quality problems ......and reputation

 

[thesharp99]

All the wiring now done and all working , cooler pump is switched as is the fans for the rad and the spot lights wired up , so that’s pretty much all the mechanicals and electrics done , so just cosmetics
Left , interior and paint - then final high boost mapping - job done ! View attachment 4577

Love those fog lights, just grabbed myself a 93 Gtir from Japan last week. 24 years since I sold my last one, so decided it was time to feel the ££££ burden again. Got 3 months to collect anything I need before it arrives and these fog lights are on my wish list.