Raising the compression?

[power_GTI-R]

Are you from Nigeria?

How come we've never heard of your car? If must be one of the most powerful Gtirs in the world.

What do you use it for? Drag racing, daily driver etc?

Like said above, £12-1400 is unfeasably cheap. It's been looked into on here before and if you strengthen the gearcase, the bell housing then becomes the weak point. so realy you need both piece uprated and the cost becomes phrohibitive.

Is cast iron strong enough? I thought it tended to be brittle.

Can you please tell me, how do you know that the front housing will be the next weakness point? have you ever heard about broken front case only? without broken the rear case?

any way we are trying and I am writing this couse I want to share it with you guys who is using the same car I do.
some of you thought its all about maney which is not :doh:
its about calculating the COST EFFECTIVE for this project,
and as I said above; if this project runs well, you will be dealing with your local dealer, pray with me

 

[power_GTI-R]

lol thats a lot of money to spend out on a supposed untested item:doh:

assuming you are genuine and you do have a 700+bhp car @fly
surely it would be in your best interests to test the thing out properly before trying to flog the items on here

as others have said, you have come on here making bold claims and expecting people to part with a lot of money which just aint gonna happen unless theres proof that what you say works.

if your truly genuine then the best thing you can do is offer one of the casings to someone like keiron or one of the other big power drag cars and let them use it on a try before you buy basis. if it works then im sure they woud pay you for it and you would then be able to sell many other units.
if it fails then you get nothing!

good old british saying 'the proof is in the pudding':-D

Lovely

we are doing the proto type case and we will test it and we need also your help to test it as well,
are you n?8)

 

[Fast Guy]

have you ever heard about broken front case only? without broken the rear case?

Yes, Ive seen a broken front case. I think it was without the rear case braking. It's the only one I 've seen that I can think of, but it's enough to prove the front case can (and probably will if the rear only is strenthened) break.

 

[noriek2003]

After we product that case we will chose dealer in UK so you will deal with our dealer.

dont want to sound rude but i wont actually be dealing with anyone. I wouldn't pay £1200-1400 for a cast end case tbh. I'd only be remotely interested if it was machined billet. Even then i doubt i would buy one tbh, the bolt on brace simon did years ago would've been around abouts £150 if he made them up and it appeared to work well so whats the point in wasting time, effort and money into a new cast case ? That alone is one of the reasons why we have never bothered seriously looking into doing one, you can make up the brace in under a day with about £50 worth of materials.

good luck anyways but i dont forsee you selling many if im completely honest with you.

 

[GTIR_Dan]

Problems with reconnecting engine loom

hi, ive just refitted the engine in my car having rebuilt the gearbox. its all gone fine except when i came to reconnect the loom i found that the plug for the reversing lights switch on the gearbox is the same as the plug for the distributor and they are both fairly close to each other.

Can anyone advise me which one connects to which part of the loom?

Thanks, Dan

 

[Fast Guy]

Going on past experience on here, just connect them and if the car doesn't start you got them the wrong way round.

 

[geoff pine]

the gear box plug is nearer the bulk head on the loom.

 

[Godzilla]

fed up with gearbox

had this problem for a while and have not got the first clue anyway only does it when car is up to temp shifting up to first and second is hard sometimes wont select so take ages to do so , but dropping down a cog into them works fine ,
and reverse 9 times out of 10 wont select just grinds, really embarrassing now as ppl look and think wow cool car shame he cant get it in gear, as i said only does it when up to temp its fine when cold or just warm ,

anyone got any ideas selector fork maybe, or gear oil needs changing/topping up

 

[PobodY]

This may sound stupid, but is your clutch disengaging when you put your foot on it? It sounds like you're trying to select gears whilst they're spinning, and they don't like that.
If you know the clutch is sound, could it be the synchros; What's it like when you double clutch it?

I think you need someone who actually knows what they're talking about...

 

[Godzilla]

lol yeah that would help , iv not tried to double clutch it as im norally either staionary for reverse or going slow into first/second,

 

[geoff pine]

If its failing to disengage then is there enough fluid it the clutch system is 1 of the cylinders leaking do you have fluid in the drivers foot well hows the peddle adjustment .Is the gearbox top ed up to the right level ?

 

[Godzilla]

geoff definatly no fluid in footwell , not sure how to check the level of gearbox also no leaking around cylinders or anything does the clutch fluid change level once hot or not surely if it's right level when cold then it will be ok at hot etc

 

[Godzilla]

had a look again and spotted two things were the clutch pedal goes through the firewall was a drop of oil around the tube that the rod goes through,

also in the bay there is a ball shaped object with a bolt in the end and a metal pipe coming off it near the drivers side strut top , witch has always been a bit wet so possibly leaking slightly , what is this and could this be the problem ,

 

[PobodY]

Eh? Pictures might help.

 

[Godzilla]

master cylinder mine has the wet look around the hole in the blue box in pic , im guessing if it was gone the fluid would be all down the footwell but it isnt just a wet dot of fluid , http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/gaz2374/ADN13439_gtir_clutch_master_cylinde.jpg

this one is the thing i dont know what it is but has always looked wet
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/gaz2374/IMG_0195.jpg

lastly pic of the slave cylinder, the gaiter that is atached to the box is worn and cracked also the bar that goes into the gearbox and left into the boot has some play , moves left and right quite easy,(this suppose to do this)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/gaz2374/IMG_0196.jpg

 

[frp]

A) check the reservoir level

B) its for the power steering

C) some play is normal tbh

if the fluid level is ok my money would be on a worn box. (is the clutch new ish or old?)
steve

 

[Godzilla]

were is the res for the master , is it that white box atached in the above pic,

think the clutch was replaced in october last year so new ish

if it was the box surely it would do it in all conditions not just when up to temp

 

[frp]

its the little pot on the bulkhead. well i can positively say it can do it whenever it feels like it as one of mine did it. bit of a tip though i saw alot of benefit replacing the hydraulic system. it may not be broke but more than certainly old and not too expensive too replace.

steve

 

[Godzilla]

So is it just master and slave cylinders that need replacing

Also after last night playing with the slave cylinder went to drive to work this morn and pedal was really light and wouldn't go in any gear then it stiffens back to near normal but still wouldn't go in easy like the biting point was too low going to try re adjust biting point after work see if it goes back to normal

 

[frp]

an uprated clutch hose would nt go a miss. im not saying this is the cause or that this would fix your problem, just that these parts sound warn and you MAY benefit from changing these for new. I still think the box is the culprit!
you could also try putting a spacer on the end of the slave rod to gain more travel. this might point to the source (or not)
steve