What have you done with your pulsar today?

Sailor96

Member
@fubar andy Folks tend to freak when there isn't a soul in the driver seat (left-hand side), got a bunch of those looks
Most don't have a clue about what it is, but had a few roll down there windows and ask
Still a couple things to get sorted; aircon controller, squeaky bearing on rhs, and the power steering pump also squeaks a bit. Seems I have a loose connection on the aircon controller, by jostling the plug it'll work intermittently. The others I have yet to look into fully, though I'm confident that the pump and rear ps bearing need doing.
Just feels good to be running, maybe now I can focus my efforts to the spare engine and trans
 

Sailor96

Member
turns out the ps belt was just a bit loose, easy turnin

Sent her off to a local exhaust shop. 2.5" 304ss all the way back, a high flow cat, resonator, and magnaflow same side muffler exiting to a single tip. Should be ready come friday :grinning:
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
turns out the ps belt was just a bit loose, easy turnin

Sent her off to a local exhaust shop. 2.5" 304ss all the way back, a high flow cat, resonator, and magnaflow same side muffler exiting to a single tip. Should be ready come friday :grinning:
If its not too late, opt for a 3" system.

It will flow better and there's plenty of roomsfor a 3" system

I noticed a better improvmenet with responce and topend power when I went to a 3" system!
 

Cathode

Active Member
Yesterday, i fitted a new alt belt and checked oil. Forgot to put the dipstick in all the way. Boosted down the road and splattered oil all over alternator and turbo. Lots of smoke coming from the bonnet after a while. Looked like the Flying Scotsman going down the A1. Initially i thought crank case pressure had popped oil stick out but this doesn't seem to be the case as i put the dipstick back in properly and spanked it back down the A1 and all seems fine. So, in conclusion the real dipstick is me.
 

Cathode

Active Member
Ok, I have searched for the legendary laser cut spacer I’ve been harping in about and can’t find it. I haven’t thrown it away it’s just not in the places where most of my parts are. I’ll keep looking Andy. It should surface. Even if it’s useless and too late. I’m curious to know where it’s gone.
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Ok, I have searched for the legendary laser cut spacer I’ve been harping in about and can’t find it. I haven’t thrown it away it’s just not in the places where most of my parts are. I’ll keep looking Andy. It should surface. Even if it’s useless and too late. I’m curious to know where it’s gone.
No problems, work has stopped in the car now until I can get the turbo mounted.

However, I'm on holiday for the next couple of weekends, so if you come across it, I'd be keen to find out so I can try and get at least the turbo mounted before the "clocks go back".

Trying to get most of the bolt ons sorted before it gets cold af in the garage and my motivation, goes into hybernation until next year.
 

Cathode

Active Member
No problems, work has stopped in the car now until I can get the turbo mounted.

However, I'm on holiday for the next couple of weekends, so if you come across it, I'd be keen to find out so I can try and get at least the turbo mounted before the "clocks go back".

Trying to get most of the bolt ons sorted before it gets cold af in the garage and my motivation, goes into hybernation until next year.
i'll let you know Andy
 
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Sailor96

Member
Went for a drive and smelled petrol, sure enough gas is coming down the tank. Double checked the filler neck hose to be sure it wasn't loose, which it wasn't soooo..
P_20250108_145732 (1).jpg
Took the whole thing apart, replaced all the lines. Looks like it was coming from the lower right nipple when it took it out (pic is after cleaning). Also took a peak at what kind of fuel pump was in there, as I have a extra high flow one sitting around to replace it if stock. but it looked like it was already uprated so I left it alone.

Now I'm sucked into a whole rear end jobbie. Figured it was the best time to knock it all out. Picked up a bearing press kit + torch which worked out really well for the main subframe bearings. For the arms I ended up using a lower ball joint removal tool and a washer + torch and that worked like a charm.
jX1k5OZbTjiD8Gf8n_Pttw.jpg P_20250106_162608 (1).jpg

Waiting for paint to dry...
P_20250108_145707.jpg P_20250108_145752 (1).jpg
 

Cathode

Active Member
Well done that man! Nice job. This is something i want to do but i'm really not looking forward to trying some of those bolts on the rear subframe. How were yours in terms of undoing them? I hope it was reasonable.
 

Sailor96

Member
How were yours in terms of undoing them? I hope it was reasonable.
The subframe nuts were easier to remove than you might expect. The whole thing is just sitting on really thick centering studs. Most everything else I had previously broke away when I replaced all the wheel bearings. Still had to use a 4ft breaker bar on them, even after a long soaking with penetrant.

The worst of them was probably the rear toe adjustment bolt which I have to replace the concentric washer from damage (my own fault really). One of the studs did back out on the diff too, but should be okay putting it back in that way.

Some pointers I found for the subframe (and didn't see on the forum) are disconnecting the abs wire plugs, removing the rear brakes from the fluid lines and undoing the fasteners for the parking brake as far as you can to move the lines out of the way, undo the suspension hats and where they meet the knuckle (I had to anyway because my jack stands are not tall enough to clear both). Other than that pretty easy, wheels/exhaust/prop shaft/subframe

For dropping the tank to unplug the hose and wires from the boot, and undoing the feed and return lines under the car prior to trying to drop the tank. Not to mention I had too much gas left in it prior to starting and spilled a fair bit of petrol on the ground and on myself from disconnecting the filler neck hose

Seems obvious now that I type it out, but might help as a reminder :grin:
 

Cathode

Active Member
"The subframe nuts were easier to remove than you might expect. The whole thing is just sitting on really thick centering studs. Most everything else I had previously broke away when I replaced all the wheel bearings. Still had to use a 4ft breaker bar on them, even after a long soaking with penetrant."

This is good to know, plus a decent soaking, that's gonna help. Thanks for this.
 

Sailor96

Member
Besides waiting for an eccentric bolt/washer to arrive, here's the thing put back into one piece.P_20250113_101554_1.jpg
P_20250113_101625_1.jpg
Tank made it's way back into the car after I undercoated everything just for good measure.

Turned the key and let the pump prime a few times and then checked for leakage.
Good news for me, there was none that I could see or smell, so for now seems sorted
 
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