Raising the compression?

[Godzilla]

ok guys thanks , boby i may be in touch but might just go new il pm u though, i will need the rubber that goes over the clutch fork were it connects to the slave as its knackered, if you have one of em

 

[Tim]

Is this mucky clutch fluid?

http://twitpic.com/487hx

Does that look like the clutch fluid needs changing?

Cheers

Tim

 

[olliecast]

looks like you had a curry then shat in the resevoir.

I`d 100% change it. 10 min job with 2 of you matey. Made my fooked gearbox "unfooked"

 

[Godzilla]

mine looks like that and now i have no gears and have to replace both master and slave cylinders , might be related problem might not though,

 

[Tim]

Cool... Job for the weekend then!

 

[Mr GTiR]

looks like you had a curry then shat in the resevoir

I would say that's bang on! Like Ollie has stated get it changed pronto.

 

[Tim]

What could have caused it? Age..? Or is there a problem i should perhaps look at fixing before another batch of fluid turns that colour?

 

[Mr GTiR]

It could be the rubber seals have started to break down and it's letting crap in. I would be checking both the master cylinder and slave for any signs of leaking fluid.

 

[Tim]

I can't see any around the slave, once i get the car out of the garage on saturday and into some sunlight i'll check under the dash..

How much fluid will i need?

 

[Godzilla]

best off with a torch to chect the master mate as its still quite dark up were its located

 

[Modform]

Any feedback on the Phantom Grip? Did it work or last for ya?

 

[OZ-Racing]

I can't see any around the slave

My slave cylinder let go, but I couldn't see any leakage around it, so assumed it was the master and repaired that to no avail.
So I then got a repair kit for the slave cylinder and when I took the rubber boot off it loads of fluid poured out.
So pull the boot back on the slave to look for fluid, but judging by the state of your fluid in the reservoir your master seals could be going?

 

[Godzilla]

right guys iv swapped them both over but its still doing it , am i looking at clutch fork ? don't understand why it would be fine and start in any gear but soon as power is on it wont go into them,

have just been my mechanic and he reckons the clutch might have collapsed thats why it will go in when off but not when on, what do you guys think ,this sound plausible.

 

[Fast Guy]

I don't know, but mine did it that way. It started playing up with reverse too. It would go in OK, but when you put it back in neutral and lifted of the clutch it was actually still in gear and lunged backwards (very lucky I never hit anything)

 

[Godzilla]

fast guy was urs just the cylinders then in the end,

 

[tenfoloten]

I'm intrested,too
I want install phantom grip at front of my R

I have contacted phantom grip and he told me..The base kit is usually by rule 350 hp 350 ft lbs torque and the upgrade
spring tuning kit is 650 hp 650 ft lbs torque

 

[Godzilla]

boby had suggested maybe the pedal box was to fault so the pic below is of the bracket from the firewall to pedals etc guessing this is said pedal box, anyway the blue arrow moves about 2 mm when i push down the clutch pedal by hand and the red boxes are were it looks like it snapped away , i no its a crap pic but to figure out were this pic is the big bolt bottom left is the clutch pedal adjuster bolt, also the right side of pic is ecu side ,if this is my problem can u replace it or is it a weld job

 

[Godzilla]

after a pm from boby i managed to climb in again and undone that bolt inbetween the two red boxes above and basically the piece of metal it bolts too is spinning round freely so has snapped, iv got a feeling this is were im getting all my trouble , good job i checked cos the gearbox was going to be removed next week to check out the clutch fork etc,

 

[Fast Guy]

Nope, mine was the pivot point had bust through the fork.

 

[pulsarboby]

its really hard to tell from that photo tbh, but put it this way!
if the pedalbox is moving 2mm at the top then that would equate to a loss of roughly 10-15mm at the pedal end which would make it very difficult to engage gears (especially 1st and reverse)

remove the plastic cover around fusebox (under steering wheel) which hides the top of pedal assembly.
crawl in there and look especially around the top of pedal box where it bolts to bulkhead and press pedal down and see if theres any movement there. if the top of pedalbox is moving away from bulkhead then thats where your problem lies as you will not be fully dis-engaging the clutch driveplate.
if its split at the top then its a fooker of a job to weld.

we just done sonas car on here (which someone had a crack at in the past) took us a day to get the bloody thing out let alone fit another pedalbox and weld up the bulkhead again.