How To do the Easy 1 Bar boost mod

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alfyboy

Guest
Fire & skill said:
i think you meant - i drilled the hole at the correct size and its 1.2 bar and not that pussyy 1 bar that the rest of you fucckers are running :lol:
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exactly :lol: :lol: ( i knew someone would correct me)
 
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gunmetalgtir

New Member
Do you need an uprated fuel pump as well for this mod? And does anyone know the exact diameter of the hole that you need to drill?
 
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alfyboy

Guest
gunmetalgtir said:
Do you need an uprated fuel pump as well for this mod? And does anyone know the exact diameter of the hole that you need to drill?
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Yes its advisable, think the hole is 1mm
 
L

Lexus

Guest
Mine is looped and am running 1bar (just), got the car like that.. I think something else is wrong with my setup though as the boost kicks in full force between 3200-4200rpm on a standard turbo :( I have an HKS AFR on it and its still runs slightly lean.. have a Walbro pump to fit so that should help.
 
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paz

Active Member
I'm not sure how its done, but an adjustment is made to the boost pipes and it runs a permanantly higher boost level. I'm having mine done at Hitec sometime this summer.

Maybe try emailing Ian @ Hitec, being abroad he might be prepared to help you out?

paz
 
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GTIRnick

Guest
just to add my 2p's worth i have just joined the two pipes together using a small piece (1" long) piece of vacum tubing we use at work for cab controls on truck hydraulics and i am now getting exactly 1 bar boost on my after market boost gauge :lol: holds the boost in every gear with no spikes (passenger checked this) must be the cheapest mod i have ever done....
 
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crackerjack

Guest
ok so with this you join the two lines into a T and have them connect to the wastegate line/line of intake manifold? and that will give you 1 bar?
 
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mds

New Member
When you say you joined the pipes together are the two pipes you are referring to the two pipes that go into the solenoid i.e the ones that are next to each other????
 
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GTIRnick

Guest
yes mate very easy the two pipes next to each other on the standard solenoid just remove them insert something in both ends to join them together either a inline connecter (halfords,motorworld etc) or use smaller diameter hard plastic tubing (send me a pm if you want some i have loads of smaller diameter pipe)
then just leave the standard solenoid as it is with the wiring still connected but obviously with the two pipes removed. and there you go, would only advise this if you have a aftermarket boost gauge though so you can monitor the pressure.

hth

regards

nick
 
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mds

New Member
i did try this nick and the car did'nt feel that much quicker i don't have a seperate gauge to the one in the car but the one in the car only read a tiny bit more boost it definatley did'nt feel like a bar of boost, what about fuelling etc???
cheers for the prompy reply
 
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geoff pine

Well-Known Member
You will need to loop the solenoid with a short pice of pipe about 80mm long other wise theres no boost loop. Thats how hiteq did mine.
 
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steve963

Active Member
geoff pine said:
You will need to loop the solenoid with a short pice of pipe about 80mm long other wise theres no boost loop. Thats how hiteq did mine.
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Can you explain more, maybe some pictures?
 
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SIR GTIR

Member
Interesting might acquire my mates spare one to try this out tho i won't be able to try this on mine till the motor runs in ;-)
 
abyss

abyss

Member
loop solenoid with a bit of pipe and then take the to pipes that used to be on the solenoid and put a piece of pipe between them seems to work but you will need a boost gauge and fuel pump if you insert a longer piece of pipe to join them it seems to lower the boost this is why im running 0.85 bar as i still need new fuel pump but it does work. Ie no need to drill hole in solenoid.
 
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geetee

Active Member
Why do you need to loop the solenoid??

Can't logically see why you would need to, it doesn't sense pressure it just opens and closes on command of the ECU. And I think it is only closed when the DET sensor is triggered or the ECU goes into safe mode. In normal operation I think it just bleeds a certain amount off to the inlet.

As usual I probably have it wrong.

Let me make sure I have this right.....

You pull the 2 pipes off the solenoid and join them together. Then you get a piece of pipe and use this to connect the 2 stubs on the solenoid. ?

So what this achieves is that some boost pressure that would otherwise be hitting the actuator is effectively bled off back into the inlet tract. ?

Might give it a go and see what I get. But think I'd prefer a grainer valve to help prevent wastegate creep.

Cheers
Graham
 
Mikey_pulsar

Mikey_pulsar

Member
I've just done this....we drilled a hole of 1.5mm and it boost to 0.8 bar,

So we completely by-passed the solenoid to see what happened and it sat dead on 1bar boost....is there any reasons why i couldn't keep it by-passed? do you think it would be alright?
 
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