How To do the Easy 1 Bar boost mod

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dan-hipgrave

Member
Aslong as you have an uprated fuel pump you'll be fine running like that - i did for many miles. Standard clutch wont last long though.
 
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jambo_gtir

Member
Mikey_pulsar said:
I've just done this....we drilled a hole of 1.5mm and it boost to 0.8 bar,

So we completely by-passed the solenoid to see what happened and it sat dead on 1bar boost....is there any reasons why i couldn't keep it by-passed? do you think it would be alright?
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By-passing the solanoid should give you only 0.5bar, as this is the standard spring rate on wastegate. The boost solanoid bleeds off 0.2bar and thats how you get the standard 0.7bar. Not sure why yours is boosting at 1bar tho :s
 
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s3by

Guest
i did the 1 bar loop..
and on high RPM , like pass 5500 my wideband is showing me a lean condition , leaner than 17.5:1 .. and the EGT goes up really fast. even whit water injection on.
anybody experience that situation and what did you do to fix it ???
i have a uprated fuel pump
exhaust and air intake
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
s3by said:
i did the 1 bar loop..
and on high RPM , like pass 5500 my wideband is showing me a lean condition , leaner than 17.5:1 .. and the EGT goes up really fast. even whit water injection on.
anybody experience that situation and what did you do to fix it ???
i have a uprated fuel pump
exhaust and air intake
Click to expand...
you need this sorting asap mate as 13 afr at that load is considered lean let alone being the wrong side of stoic.
you`ll melt it if you carry on dude.
did you put an uprated fuel pump in?
if not its mabe worth having a look inside the tank.
mabe worth sticking this up in the problem solving section
 
darkyGTI-R

darkyGTI-R

New Member
:thumbsup:I would just like to say i have just this minute done this mod and my god what a bloody difference i nearlly crapped myself:oops::thumbsup:

Christ now i know what people mean by 1 bar well almost 1 bar probably about 0.8bar which i'm very happy with just need to uprate fuel pump my next mod probably!:thumbsup:
 

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Animaldaz

Active Member
You still ought to get your fuelling checked even if you have got a walbro, it doesnt take much to cook your pistons.
 
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STEVEN878

Member
i joined the intake and actuator pipes together and took the car a run would only boost to 8 psi then joined he 2 solenoid ports together took it another run and only got 10 psi in 2nd gear at 4500rpm. should the car be at 14.7psi (1 bar) by then or do i have another issue? car is running standard turbo, blitz filter, forge dump valve, fmic, iridium plugs, magnecor 8.5 ht leads, 5zigen, decat, etc.
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
STEVEN878 said:
i joined the intake and actuator pipes together and took the car a run would only boost to 8 psi then joined he 2 solenoid ports together took it another run and only got 10 psi in 2nd gear at 4500rpm. should the car be at 14.7psi (1 bar) by then or do i have another issue? car is running standard turbo, blitz filter, forge dump valve, fmic, iridium plugs, magnecor 8.5 ht leads, 5zigen, decat, etc.
Click to expand...
Are you reading these figures from the standard boost gauge, or you have an aftermarket one ?
 
Smo

Smo

Active Member
10psi is a common boost level for this mod mate. Not all cars make 1bar, some more, some less. It's not dead on.
 
abyss

abyss

Member
if you keep the solonoid looped and shorten the pipes with the blue joint in it this will raise boost as seen in the pic.
 
fubar andy

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Blast from the past post.... :thumb:

I've been having a look at this recently as I'm still running 0.65bar (stock)

I've read the posts about this, but it looks like I'm missing something as I've followed the info and the car still pulls 0.65bar every time?

1) This is what I currently have (standard set-up)



2) Removed the pipes as mentioned...



3) Added the "loop" to the solenoid



4) And I assume that these two pipes are then connected together to finish the "1bar loop" modification?



When its taken out for a run, its still runs 0.65bar and I have an after market boost gauge telling me its still at 0.65bar

...and ideas?
 
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geoff pine

Well-Known Member
Andy are you missing the restrict-or from the pipe coming of the plenum .When i ran the 1 bar loop i never got 1bar? no more than .9 i thought it was the cracked wastegate housing turned out it was the actuator that was knackered .
 
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jambo_gtir

Member
If you join them together your constantly bleeding off to the intake and your boost will climb (depandant on size of tubing I suppose). Asuming those two blue pipes are as standard (one tee'd off from the vaccume pipe coming from plenum and the other bleeding off to intake). The solanoid, when open, bleeds off 0.2bar's worth to give you the standard 0.7 bar. By taking the solanoid out of the loop (like you have in your pic), it isnt doing anything at all. Blocking off the pipes (bllue ones) should give you 0.5bar or whatever the spring is set to in actuator. If your trying to get more than the standard 0.7bar you need to keep the solanoid plumbed in but change the amount it bleeds off, by drilling the hole bigger (see earlier in post). This means when engine is cold or a fault condition, the ECU can still shut off solanoid and lower boost.
By joining the two blue pipes together, your relying purely on the size of the pipes (I/D) to bleed off a certain amount of air. In most cases this seems to equal 1bar.... but if yours is much lower then you must have a blocked pipe or something.
Looping the solanoid as said earlier shouldn't make a sh*t of difference but i suppose they just do that to stop crap getting into the solanoid...
 
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