Raising the compression?

[Trondelond]

I usually run boost at 1.1 bar for trackdays, it should be a tad over what you're running bhp wise, and not the slightest whiff of a problem.
I don't think it's the amount of power that is the problem, more how you use it. If you WANT to break the gearbox, that can be done with standard power as well.

 

[Kev@Apex]

Loads of people have had these clutches fail badly on them..

Yeah, do a search on SXOC.com and you will find the same.

 

[pulsarboby]

luck of the draw radders lol

i busted my box on the first trackday i did in the car after i bought it, but i had a quickshift fitted (bad idea)
i then got the box rebuilt and had the gearset shotpeened to help with the extra stresses involved, but it never made it to another trackday as the engine then blew up:doh:

so now i have uprated and rebuilt engine to run around 450 mark i thought 'hey that gearbox will not take that torque on the track whilst racing' so i sold the shotpeened box and bought the quaife. so hopefully that will be ok with my case strenghener fitted8)

but ive known others to have no probs atall with there boxes.
quickshift kit will kill your box as it provokes the user into being far more aggressive with gearchange, and these boxes do not like that one little bit;-)

 

[mynheers_a_pint]

odd grumbling from back of gearbox/transferbox

urgh... another loverly suprise this morning.

Went out to the car, started it up to let it warm before i goto work. Im a wimp in the cold. Left it running for 10 minutes while i was inside the house but when i went back out it seemed to be making an intermittent grumbling/hissing noise- almost baringy. Quite quiet but it was definatly coming from the back of the engine bay, gearbox side. I have never had a problem with the drive- all gears work perfectly and i recently had all the fluids changed.

Now oddly, when i thought it was the transfer box i resided myself to taking the car to the garage to get it checked with a stethoscope. Oddly though, i drove it 3 meters- absolutly no further than this and the noise stopped completly. I was late for work by this point but drove very steadily to work. Parked at work, absolutly nothing, purring gently like it should do. I stood there for 5 minutes expecting the noise to return, or everything to explode in a shower of metal and oil.

First question- does anyone know what it could possibly be? Has anyone had an intermittent problem/noise similar?

Where does the transferbox take it's fluid from- is it self contained or does it take fluid from the gearbox? If it is self contained, there is a chance that it was not changed and i will have to consult the garage.

the clutch seems to engauge without slipping and there is no juddering or whining from anywhere under regular driving but the only other thought was a clutch baring as it's only when it's not under load.

I'm hoping i'm worrying about nothing and it was jsut one of the many odd noises you can get.

 

[Odin]

The gear box and transfer box have separate oil supply mate, The gear box filler in at the front behind the front gear box mount, And the transfer filler is on the drivers side above the the drive shaft area.

As for the noise it could be the release bearing thats maybe on it's way out.



Rob

 

[antgtir]

The transfer and gearbox oil is seperate. There is a plug on the side of the transfer box that you have to remove to enable the box to be re filled. The drain plug for the transfer box is on the bottom of the box as you would expect.

The plugs are tapered so if you do the job yourself dont tighten and tighten and tighten, or else you will either snap the plug or thread the casing lol.

I use the same spec oil for both transfer box and gearbox.

Do it yourself, its an easy job and will save you a few £'s.

If its an intermittent noise you heard then i would be tempted to wait until it gets more regular or worse in volume etc.

The box's are generally noisy things anyway on the R so wouldn't lose loads of sleep over it, but dont forget about it completely.

Ant.

 

[mynheers_a_pint]

ok thats cool. I think i'll check out the fluid in the transfer box as it is a fresh import and you never know- it could be running the original fluid- not that it's got high millage... quite the opposite

I did consider release baring, but would you say it's only worth changing with the clutch, or just get it done and stop faffing?

Cheers.

 

[Radleigh]

but i had a quickshift fitted (bad idea)

but ive known others to have no probs atall with there boxes.
quickshift kit will kill your box as it provokes the user into being far more aggressive with gearchange, and these boxes do not like that one little bit;-)

I've still got the standard gearshift, Are they easy to swap back over?

so hopefully that will be ok with my case strenghener fitted8)

Something I wanna look into, Where did you get yours from, Or have you made it yourself??8) 8)

 

[turbodaily]

more than likely clutch release bearing, just because its noisy doesnt mean its about to die though, ive had noisy release bearings last for years.

 

[snoon]

more than likely clutch release bearing, just because its noisy doesnt mean its about to die though, ive had noisy release bearings last for years.

Mine too, been noisey for the 2 years I have owned it.

 

[K9ng]

I would imagine a 1/4 mile run would do more damage to the box
as opposed to track-days, a lot of it depends on how you drive ;-)
I have done a few track-days including the 'Ring' with a B&M quickshift and had no probs!

 

[pulsarboby]

it may be none of the above! i reckon it could be just something touching / rubbing under car whilst the engine speed is higher when cold or indeed when it drops and is running slower!
next time it does it lay underneath and wiggle the exhaust etc to see if the noise then stops.
only takes something to slightly touch another bit of metal and it sounds like the cars gonna fall apart lol

 

[pulsarboby]

I would imagine a 1/4 mile run would do more damage to the box
as opposed to track-days, a lot of it depends on how you drive ;-)
I have done a few track-days including the 'Ring' with a B&M quickshift and had no probs!

i agree paul 1/4 mile is much harsher on gearboxes and drivetrain, but the quickshifters do provoke you to be more aggressive with gearchange, and 3rd and 5th are very close.
if your on the track and miss 3rd and go to 5th then you are more likely to crunch it back into third, 'especially if your on an overtaking manouvre lol' thats why my box exploded!

but having said that, it really is luck of the draw, my box could have been on its last legs anyway, i will never know!

 

[scottydouk!]

very helpfull people, nice one, more the better!

 

[Radleigh]

I'll be soft as shit then and report back LOL

 

[mynheers_a_pint]

that's awesome. Cheers for all your help. I can sleep easy....er tonight.

Cltuch will need to be done when the boost goes up, but until that time i have no intention of getting it done.

 

[Trip]

depends also what tyres you are using. having soft compound slicks will put more strain on the drivetrain.

 

[antgtir]

Thanks Jim, ill PM Ed and see if he can point me in the right direction for the voltage read out via datascan, it must be somewhere.

Its a bit of a pain this procedure as its still TMIC so all that gubbins is in the way of the TPS, so its a strip down twist, build back up test and so on until i reach the correct voltage. Pain in the ass but if it solves the problem im not complaining.

Cheers,

Ant.

 

[antgtir]

Ant,

What exactly have you ruled out/changed in the quest for this hesitation ?

Paul

Paul,

Ive replaced the following: -

Spark Plugs.
Leads.
Dizzy.
Rotor arm.
Fuel filter.
Fuel pump.
DET Sensor (this was done as 34 code was logged, now fixed and no 34 log).

Ive carried out the following: -

Swapped lambda sensor for known working one.
Re earthed TPS.
Re earthed MAF.
Checked for vacuum leaks (basic soapy water trick).

Things i would like to carry out as a matter of course: -

Pressurised vacuum test.
Adjust existing TPS, if existing TPS does not work with correct voltage test using spare working TPS.
Test using spare (standard) MAF.
Check speed sensor (this was said to not be working when the datascan info was interagated) replace if necessary.

During the change over of the Lambda sensor i noticed that the probe end of the sensor was a whitish colour i.e. indicating a lean mixture. I could just be a little paranoid and this colour is perfectly normal or the engine is either recieving additional air past the recorded MAF volume or the engine is not being fed enough fuel. I will probably take a picture of the probe end when i remove the sensor again.

I love my GTiR:lol:

Cheers,

Ant.

 

[youngsyp]

Paul,

Ive replaced the following: -

Spark Plugs.
Leads.
Dizzy.
Rotor arm.
Fuel filter.
Fuel pump.
DET Sensor (this was done as 34 code was logged, now fixed and no 34 log).

Ive carried out the following: -

Swapped lambda sensor for known working one.
Re earthed TPS.
Re earthed MAF.
Checked for vacuum leaks (basic soapy water trick).

Things i would like to carry out as a matter of course: -

Pressurised vacuum test.
Adjust existing TPS, if existing TPS does not work with correct voltage test using spare working TPS.
Test using spare (standard) MAF.
Check speed sensor (this was said to not be working when the datascan info was interagated) replace if necessary.

During the change over of the Lambda sensor i noticed that the probe end of the sensor was a whitish colour i.e. indicating a lean mixture. I could just be a little paranoid and this colour is perfectly normal or the engine is either recieving additional air past the recorded MAF volume or the engine is not being fed enough fuel. I will probably take a picture of the probe end when i remove the sensor again.

I love my GTiR:lol:

Cheers,

Ant.

Ant,

So you haven't checked the base fuel pressure ?

Also, I wouldn't worry about a "whitish" lambda probe. I'd expect it to be just biscuit colour for a good mixture and if it was running lean, it should be pretty obvious.

Have you thought about buying/borrowing a wideband lambda controller and sensor ?
If you were going to buy one, the Innovative Motorsport LC1 is a very reasonably priced package and will just require a laptop to view a graphical representation.

The AEM kit is also very well priced and, comes with a gauge so, you can permanently fit it in.

Personally, I'd be tempted to take it to a reputable dyno operator and do a couple of diagnostic runs for £50-£70 ?!

I also noticed you've not looked at the coil ?! Maybe it's starting to breakdown ?!

It's a shame I'm not closer to you as, I'd be more than happy to help you sort this annoyance out. I know what it's like to have this sort of issue so, I can understand what you're going through.

If you want me to look at any of your datascan logs, even if it's just to compare them to mine, let me know.

Keep up the search matey.

Paul