skiddusmarkus
Active Member
If this is the case, is it a matter of just resetting it to zero(for starters) or would it then need the map tweaking again?
Weird RR results, opinions please.
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pulsarboby
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i would guess the map will need tweeking up as you would be altering the cam settings so car will make more power and fuelling/ignition will need adjusting accordingly, but ed would be the best man to ask on that one
as for cams themselves i would just 0 both of them otherwise things start to get complicated with valve degrees and so forth, also locktite the bolts to stop them vibrating loose.
the verniers are good if you have a timing belt fitted (without cover) but on our motors they can be a real headache as they are so awquard to get at and keep adjusting by trial and error
as for cams themselves i would just 0 both of them otherwise things start to get complicated with valve degrees and so forth, also locktite the bolts to stop them vibrating loose.
the verniers are good if you have a timing belt fitted (without cover) but on our motors they can be a real headache as they are so awquard to get at and keep adjusting by trial and error
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red reading
Active Member
Have to say i did'nt think of this, he could be right.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I'll try and whip the cover off tomorrow afternoon.Its a while since I have done it, do I need any sealant or anything for the dizzy end?I seem to remember something about it.The rubber gasket is a new one so should be fine.
red reading
Active Member
you just need a smidge of sealent for the half moon plugs that are on the rocker gasket.
stumo
Active Member
I would also say cam timing as long as other variables are ok...like fuel pressure, ign timing which i'm sure Ed will have checked.
I'd find out the cam timing and then setup the cams...that will usually get you 95% of the potential of most cams. It's not difficult, it's just time consuming.
If you just set it to 0 (zero) it will probibly run better but you might as well throw the vernier wheels away cos they're doing naff all.
You can often find that aftermarket cams haven't been ground correctly to 0(zero) Deg. A mate once had a cam (in a Pinto) that was over 10 degrees out, it ran like a bag of shite. Took us a LONG time to suss that out.
I'd find out the cam timing and then setup the cams...that will usually get you 95% of the potential of most cams. It's not difficult, it's just time consuming.
If you just set it to 0 (zero) it will probibly run better but you might as well throw the vernier wheels away cos they're doing naff all.
You can often find that aftermarket cams haven't been ground correctly to 0(zero) Deg. A mate once had a cam (in a Pinto) that was over 10 degrees out, it ran like a bag of shite. Took us a LONG time to suss that out.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Intake is made of alloy and thick silicone with very little gap between the alloy pipes if you know what I mean.Fuel pressure has been fine since I moved the sard from its bracket on the block which was causing it go keep rising.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Ed, if it turns out to be the cam timing which seems to be the general consensus then is it better to just have them zeroed locally or wait until I come to you ie is it going to drasticly alter your map?
I was going to take the cover off today but its howling with wind and I'm not risking shit getting blown into the head while the top is off so should get it done at the weekend.
Again, the car drives much better than it looks on the graph but then I did spend quite a lot of time and money getting the right bits together to help the engine rev better.I was talking to Danny yesterday and I was saying how power graphs should also have time plotted too, so you could see how quickly the revs build up at full throttle, it would give you more of an idea how responsive an engine was.
I was going to take the cover off today but its howling with wind and I'm not risking shit getting blown into the head while the top is off so should get it done at the weekend.
Again, the car drives much better than it looks on the graph but then I did spend quite a lot of time and money getting the right bits together to help the engine rev better.I was talking to Danny yesterday and I was saying how power graphs should also have time plotted too, so you could see how quickly the revs build up at full throttle, it would give you more of an idea how responsive an engine was.
Cam timing will be wrong if you've skimmed the head and installed a thinner head gasket but I'd still want to understand what is happening on the air flow.
The injectors being maxed doesn't mean anything if your fueling is okay. The injectors running lean would.
What does the MAF sensor show, does air volume stabilise at 6Krpm? If the air volume is rising but your injectors are still injecting the same amount of fuel then if your AFR's are constant you're losing air before the engine. Ed should be able to feedback what he saw.
The injectors being maxed doesn't mean anything if your fueling is okay. The injectors running lean would.
What does the MAF sensor show, does air volume stabilise at 6Krpm? If the air volume is rising but your injectors are still injecting the same amount of fuel then if your AFR's are constant you're losing air before the engine. Ed should be able to feedback what he saw.
Fusion Ed
Active Member
You can record time on the road, but not the dyno, as the load varies depending on the run. Its not like a fixed mass (inertia) dyno like some of the USA ones where you spin a big weight etc.
As for cams, its upto you, if it drastically changes the airflow then you need to be a bit careful, fuelling should be ok, but it could upset ignition timing.
You also dont forget need to deal with the actuator as that spring was very weak.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Yeah I've been looking at actuators this week, anyone got a link to a reasonably priced supplier?The turbo is a turbo dynamics md214.Has anyone ever achieved a decent amount of boost on this turbo by adjusting the preload on the rod?
Campbell the cams were fitted aat the same time as the engine rebuilt and gasket fitted so you'd think this was taken into account.
Campbell the cams were fitted aat the same time as the engine rebuilt and gasket fitted so you'd think this was taken into account.
You'd like to think so but if the cam timing is set at stock then it must be. Do a quick search on cam timing and skimmed heads and you'll see what I mean.
It took Stu(mo) a good 4 hours to fettle my cam timing. It's the kind of slow job people skip.
stumo
Active Member
Only cos we couldn't get the engine to turn over smoothly, could have halved that time if it had . And we did get it to within 1/2 Degree 8)
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Finally had the time to get the rocker cover off.
Bolts seemed tight and the pulleys are just set to zero, so looks like that can be ruled out.
Bolts seemed tight and the pulleys are just set to zero, so looks like that can be ruled out.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Not driven the car since mapping btw as the starter decided to pack up.I got a mate to help me drag the car out of the garage today and gave the starter a good whack and it fired up 1st time.Switched it off again and it just did the old "tick, tick, tick" thing.Whacked it a few more times and no succes so pushed it back into the garage.
Mike has rebuilt my PAR box so is the starter much easier to do with the box out as it certianly looks like it would be?I could find one bolt for it by feel and the power lead but couldn't find the other so didn't try and take it out.
Mike has rebuilt my PAR box so is the starter much easier to do with the box out as it certianly looks like it would be?I could find one bolt for it by feel and the power lead but couldn't find the other so didn't try and take it out.