Weird RR results, opinions please.
- Thread starter skiddusmarkus
- Start date
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
It looks as if "0" is lined up with the point of a tooth, it would make sense to really as you can see its all line up then.Whether its on the right link is a different matter 
.
.skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Can anyone confirm this?I presume the chain has a different coloured link or mark on it?What trip says makes sense that the tooth with the markings on should be on a link to the left or right as you could then see the different coloured link better.Looking at my pic of the hks pulley it looks like there are about 40 teeth on it which would make it 9 degrees per tooth or so.Half that for it being in the middle would put the timing out by 4.5 degrees but thats on the inlet side, gf was taking the pics as I was stopping anything falling into the top of the engine and didn't get one of the exhaust cam.Would 4.5 degrees make such a difference?
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pulsarboby
Guest
that timing looks to be out.
as trip said the whole link should be over the punch mark in the sprocket.
the easiest way to check this is by getting the exhaust cam sprocket keyway to sit at 12o/c with the crank pulley 2nd mark from left sitting at the 0 pointer on timing cover case.
the link should then be sitting over the punch mark on ex sprocket if it isnt then make it so it is.
then you need to count back 11 links and the inlet sprocket punch mark should be sitting over the 11th link face so effectively you have 9 full links inbetween the marks.
now it is possible that someone has used my method of timing where link position is irrelevant as i do it from the cam position.
the easiest way to tell for sure is by putting a timing gun on it and setting base ignition timing at 20 degrees.
now if the ignition timing is hard to achieve or is right at the end of adjustment on dizzy then the engine timing will be out for sure.
ive seen some that are so far out that you cannot even get the dizzy bolts in so people have elongated the bolt holes lol.
the other thing you need to check then also...is that the crankshaft pulley damper has not split and outer ring has spun which would then give you a false reading!
as trip said the whole link should be over the punch mark in the sprocket.
the easiest way to check this is by getting the exhaust cam sprocket keyway to sit at 12o/c with the crank pulley 2nd mark from left sitting at the 0 pointer on timing cover case.
the link should then be sitting over the punch mark on ex sprocket if it isnt then make it so it is.
then you need to count back 11 links and the inlet sprocket punch mark should be sitting over the 11th link face so effectively you have 9 full links inbetween the marks.
now it is possible that someone has used my method of timing where link position is irrelevant as i do it from the cam position.
the easiest way to tell for sure is by putting a timing gun on it and setting base ignition timing at 20 degrees.
now if the ignition timing is hard to achieve or is right at the end of adjustment on dizzy then the engine timing will be out for sure.
ive seen some that are so far out that you cannot even get the dizzy bolts in so people have elongated the bolt holes lol.
the other thing you need to check then also...is that the crankshaft pulley damper has not split and outer ring has spun which would then give you a false reading!
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I have the Forge crank pulley Bobby.Ed did look at my dizzy and adjusted it because it looked out but then put it back again as it was right afterall.I can't remember much more than that about it.
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pulsarboby
Guest
if you get a chance on tuesday pop up to donnington park and il check the timing for you and will tell you straight away if the engine timings out or not
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
What time are you there until Bobby?I have to work next tuesday but Donnington is about 45 mins away from me.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Have sinced had a GT3071 fitted and was hoping a larger a/r(old turbo was 0.64, current is 0.86) might solve the problem but it more or less felt the same.At the beginning of the week I had my downpipe back 2.5" mongoose replaced with a custom 3" one and what a difference!
I think its possible my problems were down to the step down from the 3" janspeed downpipe into a 2.5" mongoose decat as the car is now trying to make boost ridiculously fast, even on light throttle.In 3rd/4th even with less than half throttle the rate at which it zips from 0.5 to 1.2 bar(actuator pressure) is incredible.I haven't dared put my foot flat down as the car needs remapping to suit so god knows how fast it will spool with some welly.
Hoping to get it mapped shortly so will see for sure what's happened.Have asked Ed to dial in my 260 cams anyway.
I think its possible my problems were down to the step down from the 3" janspeed downpipe into a 2.5" mongoose decat as the car is now trying to make boost ridiculously fast, even on light throttle.In 3rd/4th even with less than half throttle the rate at which it zips from 0.5 to 1.2 bar(actuator pressure) is incredible.I haven't dared put my foot flat down as the car needs remapping to suit so god knows how fast it will spool with some welly.
Hoping to get it mapped shortly so will see for sure what's happened.Have asked Ed to dial in my 260 cams anyway.
A 3" elbow works miracles on any turbo but is essential for the 3071. A re-map sounds like a good idea as it will be making boost far earlier as well I expect?
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
It starts making boost similarly to my gt2876 and more or less felt the same until I had the rest of the system made in 3".The Janspeed has a nice elbow on it which is obviously coming into its own now.
I've been in touch with Ed about mapping as it definitely needs it and just waiting on confirmation of a date.Hopefully with dialling in the Tomei 260s it can start making boost even earlier.
I've also cleaned up the turbo outlet piping today as it was put together using what was available at the time which meant chopping the Forge outlet and connecting with a silicone reducer(2">2.5").This put the pipe at a funny angle and also way too close to the exhaust manifold which although its lagged was heating up the outlet to scalding temps.
I asked the place that did the exhaust for a peice of scrap 2.5" tube and bought a 2.5" joiner off ebay and have raised the forge pipe up as high as it can go and still clear the bonnet.Then I covered the parts closest to the manifold with some Defi turbo blanket material and gave the rest of the pipe an extra reflective foil blankte which should keep the heat out nicely.
I've been in touch with Ed about mapping as it definitely needs it and just waiting on confirmation of a date.Hopefully with dialling in the Tomei 260s it can start making boost even earlier.
I've also cleaned up the turbo outlet piping today as it was put together using what was available at the time which meant chopping the Forge outlet and connecting with a silicone reducer(2">2.5").This put the pipe at a funny angle and also way too close to the exhaust manifold which although its lagged was heating up the outlet to scalding temps.
I asked the place that did the exhaust for a peice of scrap 2.5" tube and bought a 2.5" joiner off ebay and have raised the forge pipe up as high as it can go and still clear the bonnet.Then I covered the parts closest to the manifold with some Defi turbo blanket material and gave the rest of the pipe an extra reflective foil blankte which should keep the heat out nicely.
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