MORF114
Active Member
Im going to be getting my car on the dyno in the next couple of weeks ive been speaking to the people who will be tuning they can tune both the link and autronic, but they are recomending the link plus g3 to be the better ecu, i personnaly think, i dont know why but i beleive the autronic sm4 to be better than the linkplus g3 but im just confusing myself when i try to compare, i will get what i want in the end because its my hard earned cash,
What i really want to know is, is there a massive difference in the way a car can be tuned between these 2 ecu's and will one have a better map than the other or is this all down to tuner rather than software and tuning capabilities of the ecu ?
Would i be better off paying the extra $$ for autronic sm4 or doesnt it matter and should i save my money for the mapping on the link.
Think ive confused myself too much to understand anything today lol
What i really want to know is, is there a massive difference in the way a car can be tuned between these 2 ecu's and will one have a better map than the other or is this all down to tuner rather than software and tuning capabilities of the ecu ?
Would i be better off paying the extra $$ for autronic sm4 or doesnt it matter and should i save my money for the mapping on the link.
Think ive confused myself too much to understand anything today lol
Fusion Ed
Active Member
The link G3 are good, much better than anything else in the link range, that is I have heard good stuff from other mappers I've met. Both I am sure will do a good job, however the more complex ecus can take longer to get there, depending on how much you need to set up first.
The other thing is that regardless of what controls it the max power your engine can produce under X conditions will remain the same of any ecu. So a mighty powerful F1 ecu will not gain you anything over a good high spec ECU, it will just cost you more to set up, and sometimes achieve less if you run out of time or money to have it set up properly under all conditions.
The other thing is that regardless of what controls it the max power your engine can produce under X conditions will remain the same of any ecu. So a mighty powerful F1 ecu will not gain you anything over a good high spec ECU, it will just cost you more to set up, and sometimes achieve less if you run out of time or money to have it set up properly under all conditions.
antgtir
New Member
Well there seems to have been a little progress made, as a few maybe know i took the R on the track at Silverstone a couple of months ago and the car ran well as expected, however i had the above mentioned niggly little problem still. Since the track session the niggly problem started to get a little worse which funnily enough i was glad about lol as it really is a pain in the ****.
Initially when i had this problem as already mentioned i carried out an ecu check and the results came back 55, all ok. Anyway now its a little worse i thought ill try again and lone behold it produces a code of 34 DET Sensor which runs in line with the symptoms im getting, so now i am on the look out for a new ideally DET Sensor.
So although this costs a small fortune, im pretty happy that it is what it is *famous last words lol* so now at least i can be pro active and get this little pain in the **** sorted.
So any help will be appreciated, tips, photo's suppliers etc etc, please all information welcome, cheers guys and gals
Ant.
Initially when i had this problem as already mentioned i carried out an ecu check and the results came back 55, all ok. Anyway now its a little worse i thought ill try again and lone behold it produces a code of 34 DET Sensor which runs in line with the symptoms im getting, so now i am on the look out for a new ideally DET Sensor.
So although this costs a small fortune, im pretty happy that it is what it is *famous last words lol* so now at least i can be pro active and get this little pain in the **** sorted.
So any help will be appreciated, tips, photo's suppliers etc etc, please all information welcome, cheers guys and gals
Ant.
O
Odin
Guest
antgtir said:So any help will be appreciated, tips, photo's suppliers etc etc, please all information welcome, cheers guys and gals
Ant.
Good luck :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .
What you need is a pair of Mr fantastic arms :shock: :lol: :lol: .
Rob
Braveheart
New Member
Quote from this thread below:
"
it was a nightmare. I jack up car, dropped down pipe of. had extension after extension on a ratchet with a knuckle on the end. I manged just to crack it slightly, then undone it by hand. It took a while, but got there in the end. I'm going to relocate mine, thats too much work for me.lol
Think ive read some people take wheel off and go in that way. I tried that but not much luck."
Some info here: http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44305&highlight=knock+det+sensor
"
it was a nightmare. I jack up car, dropped down pipe of. had extension after extension on a ratchet with a knuckle on the end. I manged just to crack it slightly, then undone it by hand. It took a while, but got there in the end. I'm going to relocate mine, thats too much work for me.lol
Think ive read some people take wheel off and go in that way. I tried that but not much luck."
Some info here: http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44305&highlight=knock+det+sensor
Braveheart
New Member
I put it back in the OE possition.
Too important an item to get wrong!
Too important an item to get wrong!
antgtir
New Member
Thats what my first thoughts were to be honest, i wouldn't want to get that wrong, its either too much or none at all really with this thing.Braveheart said:
There's a guy selling the kits and says its a 5 min job with the relocation kit:lol: but also states to relocate onto the plenum:?
Anyone else any ideas?
Ant.
T
treemonkey
Guest
had similar kinda problem. Ignored it for a while til it developed in to a missfire between 4 and 5 K on full load. I figured it was an ignition problem so ordered new plugs, leads etc.
Now I have no compression on number 4 cylinder and oil all over the engine bay, looking at an unscheduled rebuild.
Best guess is engine was running lean poss due to vacuum leak (running 1 bar ish on standard pump, map and injectors) developed into a hot spot and burned through the piston.
Now I have no compression on number 4 cylinder and oil all over the engine bay, looking at an unscheduled rebuild.
Best guess is engine was running lean poss due to vacuum leak (running 1 bar ish on standard pump, map and injectors) developed into a hot spot and burned through the piston.
K
krikra
Guest
final drive bearings!
When taking my spare box appart for inspection I found that the final drive bearings where warped.. Its supposed to be a very low mileage box. And rest of the box looks very fine to support that.
Now Im thinking if something is wrong with the final drive causing the bearing damage??
Would be really nice if someone with "gearbox experience" could advise me on the matter.
I was going to fit this box this weekend, but now I need to find a solution to this final drive problem. Is it
1) change the warped bearings
2) move the final drive incl. bearings from my old box into the new box before installing it
When taking my spare box appart for inspection I found that the final drive bearings where warped.. Its supposed to be a very low mileage box. And rest of the box looks very fine to support that.
Now Im thinking if something is wrong with the final drive causing the bearing damage??
Would be really nice if someone with "gearbox experience" could advise me on the matter.
I was going to fit this box this weekend, but now I need to find a solution to this final drive problem. Is it
1) change the warped bearings
2) move the final drive incl. bearings from my old box into the new box before installing it
0
00sid
Guest
ok well these bearings arnt cheap and are hard to remove from the diff, this is why they dont get replaced to often. this might have happened due to over shimming of the bearings.
you can swap over your old final drive with the bearings plus outer race but you will have to re shim the final drive which needs to be done as per the nissan manual.
or get new bearings and refit on your new final drive and re-shim as above.
you can swap over your old final drive with the bearings plus outer race but you will have to re shim the final drive which needs to be done as per the nissan manual.
or get new bearings and refit on your new final drive and re-shim as above.
Braveheart
New Member
When I bought my R it never really ran that well.
It felt strong but would stutter and hesitate at the higher end of the rev range.
The first think I did was give it a full service, changed all lubs, plugs, points, leads, cap, arm, fuel filter, air filter... the lot. It still hesitated.
The full service was not a waisted exersise though because I now know the exact condition of my lubs and feel that I can drive the car in anger in the knowledge that everything is somewhat pretected with fresh, good quality fluids.
When I changed the knock sensor, it was like a new car. Smooth and responsive.
I do not drive my car often on the road. Usually gets driven when I'm off to the track or getting work done on it. I've probably had it out about 10 times since I bought it one year ago and covered 1500mls. I've just renewed my insurance and will give it another MOT and tax and hopefully there will be some group gatherings next year but my primary use for this car will be track.
It felt strong but would stutter and hesitate at the higher end of the rev range.
The first think I did was give it a full service, changed all lubs, plugs, points, leads, cap, arm, fuel filter, air filter... the lot. It still hesitated.
The full service was not a waisted exersise though because I now know the exact condition of my lubs and feel that I can drive the car in anger in the knowledge that everything is somewhat pretected with fresh, good quality fluids.
When I changed the knock sensor, it was like a new car. Smooth and responsive.
I do not drive my car often on the road. Usually gets driven when I'm off to the track or getting work done on it. I've probably had it out about 10 times since I bought it one year ago and covered 1500mls. I've just renewed my insurance and will give it another MOT and tax and hopefully there will be some group gatherings next year but my primary use for this car will be track.
antgtir
New Member
Ive had mine now for over 3 1/2 years now so ive done all the service normalities and have never had any problems with the car apart from a clutch, i used to drive mine as a daily driver but no longer as i have the use of other vehicles in the family so like yourself i just use it for the odd trip out, show or track event now..............i love my car lol :lol:
Ant.
P.s. will keep you posted on how the car reacts to a new sensor, watch this space.
Ant.
P.s. will keep you posted on how the car reacts to a new sensor, watch this space.
1&onlygti-r
Member
Just been told that there is only 2 engine mounts availible just waiting to comfirm which ones they are then il start taking payments they will be £140 + p&p for both
Trondelond
Active Member
What is the difference between these and the original ones? Except for the "nismo"-bit. ^^
Edit : typo.
Edit : typo.
Trondelond
Active Member
Thanks for the info. Sounds like a good idea, I suspect a lot of motion under the bonnet during trackdays.
How would it work with a torque damper, or would they pretty much cancel each other out? I suppose that depends on what mounts are available.
Sounds like a good idea, I suspect a lot of motion under the bonnet during trackdays.How would it work with a torque damper, or would they pretty much cancel each other out? I suppose that depends on what mounts are available.