J
jpward
Guest
There are a number of us that have done this and a post in the how to sections. It can be done in situe but your knuckles suffer :lol:antgtir said:
O
Odin
Guest
I don't believe in renewing seals on the master cylinder or anything else for that matter, The old adage apples I feel, "Do it on the cheap do it twice"
Rob
Rob
antgtir
New Member
Not necessarilly the case mate.
Ive recently bought a seal kit for the clutch slave cyclinder. I stripped the old one, cleaned thoroughly replaced the seals and boot etc and its better than ever. I personally dont see the point in scrapping a perfectly good housing made of cast iron in place of an over priced new item from Nissan.
As long as the unit isn't damaged, to me its the sensible thing to do. After all this is what all the old mechanics used to do, unfortunately today the so called mechanics are really just gloryfied fitters i.e. replace parts for new.
My own view and dont expect people to agree but rest assured the jobs i do, i do with 100% confidence and quality (blows own trumpet :lol
Ant.
Ive recently bought a seal kit for the clutch slave cyclinder. I stripped the old one, cleaned thoroughly replaced the seals and boot etc and its better than ever. I personally dont see the point in scrapping a perfectly good housing made of cast iron in place of an over priced new item from Nissan.
As long as the unit isn't damaged, to me its the sensible thing to do. After all this is what all the old mechanics used to do, unfortunately today the so called mechanics are really just gloryfied fitters i.e. replace parts for new.
My own view and dont expect people to agree but rest assured the jobs i do, i do with 100% confidence and quality (blows own trumpet :lol
Ant.
turbodaily
New Member
the clutch pedal feels ok though, and bights where you'd expect it to. i dont think its the master cylinder, thats too easy.. although i will need to change that at some point regardless.
P
pulsarboby
Guest
sounds like the syncro 'in the box' is goosed to me!
O
Odin
Guest
antgtir said:
It's made of alloy numbnuts :doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .
Rob
P
pulsarboby
Guest
antgtir said:Not necessarilly the case mate.
Ive recently bought a seal kit for the clutch slave cyclinder. I stripped the old one, cleaned thoroughly replaced the seals and boot etc and its better than ever. I personally dont see the point in scrapping a perfectly good housing made of cast iron in place of an over priced new item from Nissan.
As long as the unit isn't damaged, to me its the sensible thing to do. After all this is what all the old mechanics used to do, unfortunately today the so called mechanics are really just gloryfied fitters i.e. replace parts for new.
My own view and dont expect people to agree but rest assured the jobs i do, i do with 100% confidence and quality (blows own trumpet :lol
Ant.
what you have just said there ant with exception of the cylinder housing being made of cast iron:doh: is absolutely true!
years ago, mechanics were mechanics instead of nowday fitters.
the reason for this though is to do with health and safety laws, and the way society has become regarding suing etc.
i stopped fitting seal kits years ago as it was cheaper and safer(for myself and customer) to replace 'say a wheel cylinder' rather than buy a repair kit! im talking about the overall cost of job with labour etc.
i was brought up and taught to be able to repair things rather than scrapping them, starter motors, alternators etc etc! but this is a throw away society now, not just car parts but everything, tv's, washing machines, pc's etc the list goes on, but the cost of labour to repair now outweighs the cost of new items l;-)
so it is cheaper to buy a new item with a guarantee and sling it when it breaks, sad but its the way things have become.
like you however, if its your own car, then i see no need to buy a new item if you can repair your old for a fraction of the cost, so fair play to you fella
turbodaily
New Member
its like it in every gearpulsarboby said:
jambo_gtir
Member
Can the standard nissan head bolts be re-used?
I am fitting a 1.2 HKS head gasket soon and was just wondering what bolts to use?
Cheers
I am fitting a 1.2 HKS head gasket soon and was just wondering what bolts to use?
Cheers
P
pulsarboby
Guest
yes you can reuse them (although it does state not to) due to there thickness they will not snap!
O
Odin
Guest
jambo_gtir said:
You can re-use them yes, But their are stretch bolts so you'd need to measure them to see if they where with in spec's, Personally I'd buy a new set from either Nissan or Eric's of Ebay.
Or you can buy ARP head studs.
Rob
jambo_gtir
Member
ah cheers guys. I think once i get the head off i'll measure them and see, not sure i can afford the head gasket and the new bolts aswell, so might have to re-use them.
If they have stretched, surely with the HKS gasket being 1.2mm(Thicker than standard), will this will compensate?
If they have stretched, surely with the HKS gasket being 1.2mm(Thicker than standard), will this will compensate?
P
pulsarboby
Guest
a standard head gasket is also 1.2mm its just that the steel gaskets will not compress as much as an oe one!
but its true what you are saying, that would indeed compensate for any stretch in the bolts, but they will not bottom out anyway, and they deffo will not snap when torqued to correct spec!
but its true what you are saying, that would indeed compensate for any stretch in the bolts, but they will not bottom out anyway, and they deffo will not snap when torqued to correct spec!
antgtir
New Member
:doh: Why thank you kind sir, constructive as ever, ive come to expect nothing less :lol:Odin said:
;-) Maybe because mine looked ........ weathered should i say, i assumed it was cast not an advanced alloy, i should have known as the Jap's do like to be first at everything:lol:
Thanks for the highlight;-)
Bob: you are spot on there. i must admit ive just replaced our washing machine (not the R :lol: ) as it decided to give in, however i did try to fix it before hand however it ended up being the motor so after that got a new unit for £140 + vat and when compared to the £35/hr labour and parts costs of a new motor i'd be looking at a good £100 min to replace motor and fix an old machine thats already 6 years old. So i dont feel to bad, but i would always try to repair what i have first.
Back to topic though :lol:
By the sounds of things if it is indeed a synchro on its way out it may not be too long before it gets undriveable, unless you can strip and sort it out yourself id be tempted to keep running it but have in the back of your mind that you will at some point be without the R:doh:
Ant.
jambo_gtir
Member
O rite thanks mate. I just looked on eric's on ebay, i may aswell buy the ARP headbolts, but they are 1mm longer than standard, so they might counter any added thickness the head gasket offers haha.
If i choose to re-use the head bolts or get ARP ones, do they both need tightening the same? if so to what?
Cheers
If i choose to re-use the head bolts or get ARP ones, do they both need tightening the same? if so to what?
Cheers
O
Odin
Guest
jambo_gtir said:
The ARP's are studs not bolts so will use nuts to tighten them up, From what I've read on the US sites they need to be torqued up a bit more than ARP recommend themselves to achieve a good long lived head gasket seal.
But do some research mate.
Rob
turbodaily
New Member
yeah but its doing it exactly the same in every gear... so i find it unlikely that all the syncro's are gone, its been like this since i bought it 3 months ago and hasnt got any worse.
bent clutch fork is looking more likely to me.
bent clutch fork is looking more likely to me.
