Raising the compression?

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pulsarboby

Guest
liam, once the brackets out the way then getting the starter out is a doddle.
access it by putting your hands in from the top of gearbox at the backend under plenum, undo the 2 retaining bolts and pull it back then lift it forward and out.
once you have pulled it forward you will then be able to get to the 13mm nut which holds the main live cable on, which you can then release, then just pull the spade connector off which goes to the solenoid also, then just pull it out and fit the other one, and leave the Y bracket off.

trouble is like me you have big mitts lol so be prepared for a bit of pain and bloodshed:lol: :lol:
 
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mynheers_a_pint

Guest
well the removal certainly sounds easy enough. Still got to try an get the Y bracket out. has this ever been removed with the engine in situe and without removing the throttle bodies? (i get this horrible feelnig the answer will be 'no')
 
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s18rra

Guest
failed mot

well i finally brought myself a pulsar and took it for an mot but it failed on alot of things, can anyone help me with these please, im gutted. -no rear fog light
-cv joint gaiter split
-steering rack gaiter split
- front brake hoses twisted when turning wheels because there not secure on brackets because suspension has been upgraded to d2 coilovers.
-front offside brake and pad need changing but 1 of the wheel bolts is totally messed up so cant take it off to take the wheel off.
- rear lights are playing up and reverse dosent work and brake and rear light keep playing up.

help.
 
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mynheers_a_pint

Guest
i did think that when i looked at it, but i could only see 2 components- the Y shaped part and a horizontal cross member. I'll have a better look tomorrow but thanks for the info.

Cheers.
 
Smo

Smo

Active Member
The CV/Steering rack gaiters are easily available - my car failed on both those things a few weeks ago and a visit to eBay sorted that no problem. As for the fog light you'll need to have one wired in at a garage (incorporated into the rear cluster hopefully, looks better). If reverse isn't working then your gearbox has a problem and will need at least a recon (a second hand box should be in the region of £200-£400 I believe).

Unfortunately it sounds like a bad bit of luck there mate but you're best off taking both it and the failure sheet to a decent garage and let them sort it for you (unless you have a mate in the know)
 
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s18rra

Guest
yeah reverse light sometimes comes on but seems like a loose connection in the gearbox, the rear lights have large red section at the bottom with 2 bulbs, the outside bulbs work as rear lights and brake lights but the inside bulb on the right light seems to be wire to a black cable to a switch at the front, i believe to be the fog light switch but it just doesnt work.

where could i get a bracket that fit the d2 coilovers for the brake hoses?
 
Smo

Smo

Active Member
I see, my bad I obviously misunderstood. I have the little switch you're talking about as well - when you flick it does a small red light come on just next to it? If I not perhaps it would be worth checking all your fuses and if still no luck then I imagine your only option would be to trace the wire and see if you can find anything.
 
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stedee

New Member
if all the rear lights are dodgy its probabl y not the reversing switch it may be a faulty or loose connector at the cluster
gaiters are nothing too hard to fix if you know how to split a driveshaft
as for the bracket hmmm you will have to use your imagination - zip ties yeah!!
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
Lights and steering gaiter as above !

Wheel nut, you're gonna have to drill it out. You'll need a new wheel stud and wheel nut then to replace the old ones.
Get a decent set of titanium coated drill bits and work up in size, using a slow drill and some WD40 as lubricant.
The brake line is easy to secure to the D2's although, they should have a black slightly flexible arm coming off them that the brake lines go through !

Paul
 
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mynheers_a_pint

Guest
defeated. Been out there since 9am again today and managed to strip out my turbo and manifold only to find the gasket which i thought was copper is actually a standard gasket and is shagged. And i don't have a replacement. I Also managed to bust up my other hand pretty bad now so i'm lacking any fully functional hand's so it's garage time.

What an utter bastard.

I don't have free time during the week and i can't afford for it to be off the road until next weekend so i jsut have to bite the bullet.

Still, i have managed to do most of the work. They jsut need to pull out the bracket and fit the starter motor as well as fit a new gasket and put the turbo back on. And all the ancillaries. Plug all the bits back in. Radiator. Intercooler. new coolant. Downpipe.

Urgh.
:(
 
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s18rra

Guest
cool thanksr the help people, where can i get the gaitors from and are the very easy to do, also if i drill the bolt of i will mess up the long thread that comes off the hub.
i last thing the car idles at just below 1.5 and the engine sounds very noisy around the right side of the engine, is this normal?
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
s18rra said:
cool thanksr the help people, where can i get the gaitors from and are the very easy to do, also if i drill the bolt of i will mess up the long thread that comes off the hub.
Click to expand...
Yep, you'll have to replace the stud, as I said above ! ;-)
s18rra said:
i last thing the car idles at just below 1.5 and the engine sounds very noisy around the right side of the engine, is this normal?
Click to expand...
Nope, that's not normal. It should idle at around 900 rpm +- 50 rpm. And the engine shouldn't be noisy, apart from maybe a bit of top end tapping !

Don't take this the wrong way, but the car sounds like a bit of a pup. I take it the seller didn't make you aware of any issues with it ?!

Paul
 
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s18rra

Guest
nah i did know the car had a few problems but didnt know what all of them were.
why do you reckon its idling so high and how could i get it down.
 
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s18rra

Guest
anyone know where i can get the following parts as i cant find them anywhere -new treads for the wheel hub as i have to drill 2 out. (how do i get the old threads out)
- nearside steering rack gaiter

please help as i need them asap
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
The hub is not threaded, it a spline... the stud pushes in from the rear of the hub and locates on the hub due to splines... If you can get the nuts off, remove the wheel and leave a bit if stud showing (proud of the hub), it will just tap out and can be replaced with a new stud.
 
warringtonjack

warringtonjack

Active Member
Sounds like someone has previously re-wired your inner brake lights to act as fog lights. Same thing quite a few of us have done. If the connections are crap, or it was a crap job, it may well be the cause of your bulb issues, inc reverse. Check all connections and fuses. If someone has already converted the rear lights to act as foggies, then it makes sense to use them rather than put a new kit on.
 
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s18rra

Guest
i found a place that can get me the steering rack giater, they said it will be the one from a sunny gtir with powersteering, is this correct.
also he asked if i had the one with balancing tubes or without, i ordered the one with but not sure which one i need, my cars a 1990 pulsar import.
 
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